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Bilstein B6 vs B8
Hey guys,
Is anyone actually running Bilstein B8's up front? First hand experience only please. At what point would you advise going to a B8 over the B6. They're recommended for lowered cars, but how much lower before you would suggest going to a B8? The valving seems more in line with sport yellows which I have no interest in, but maybe that's just because of the shorter shock body. Bilstein says they're designed to perform like a B6 on a lowered car, but that's just their general blah blah blah... For cars with lowering springs, seeing how torsion bars don't lower the car how does this apply to our front ends? And why don't they make a B8 for the rear? Any first hand experience with ride quality and tech experience as to when to go B8 over B6 is greatly appreciated. I want to lower the car as much as possible without going to raised spindles. Thanks for reading!
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b6 35-001270 Performance *Standard Version 2- Setting: 1440/1000- With Standard Spindle green b8 34-001134 Performance+ - Standard Version 2- Setting: 1505/1160- With OE Boge Suspension- With Inner Threaded Strut Tube b6 sport 35-003885 strut assembly 2300/1075 yellow b8 34-050507 Performance+ - Sport Street Version- Setting: 2560/1315- With OE Bilstein Suspension w/ anything but the biggest t-bars std street is the best match I'd go w/ b6 w/ raised spindles and adjustable steering knuckle
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Hey Bill, thanks for chiming in!! I've seen and read a few other posts from you and was hoping you might jump in on this. I'm
Was debating between 34-050019's and 34-050507's. I have come across the the 35-001270's. But they have the same valving as the 34-050019's. I've got Bilstein greens all around from the factory and I'm not looking to change the spindles at this time. How much lower than euro height can I go with B6's all around?
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I'm also running 19/26 Torsion bars with a Carrera 3.2 front sway bar and a tarret adjustable rear sway bar.
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Quote:
b6 34-050019 Performance - Standard Version 2- Setting: 1440/1000- With OE Bilstein Suspension is just the insert as you can see the 34-050507 is way stiffer
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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The real question is what do you want to do with the car?
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No, the real question is who has actually driven on both?
Just got.off the phone with Chuck from Elephant Racing. It's all been cleared up. Going B6, all around. For those who have ever wondered or are in the same boat here's what I have come to find out. The B8 is Not shorter than a B6 when it comes to a classic 911. The B8 is equivocal to B6 Sport Yellows for the rear. Hence why there is no B8 rear available. Sonic you wanted Sport Yellows all around you buy B6 Sport yellow for the rear and B8 insert for the front.
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The static pressure of both is about the same @~42# but he pressure/ curve will increase more rapidly for the b8s the b8 34-001134 @1505/1000 is the most streetable but is still only really a match for the largest t-bars still it's the closest to the hds used on a 930 or RS
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Yeah, I've decided to go B6 all around and lower the car as much as I can without making the control arms go higher than horizontal. Might go a little bit lower but if I get any knocking or bottoming out and then I'll send them to Elephant racing and have the spindles raised and the knuckles adjusted as well. Had a good talk with Chuck from elephant he gave me all the insight and info I was looking for. With a bump steer kit, turbo tie rods I should be able to get as low as I'm looking without experiencing the shocks bottoming out. Sport yellows are too rigid for what I'm looking for specially since I'm only using 19 front and 26 rear torsion bars.
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