+1 on the replaced speakers if they're too old. Old car speakers oftem may have paper cones, they get soft due the humidity over time. Modern speakers often have either plastic cones or plastic coated paper cones. But the most bang for the buck brings one of those small active subwoofers as already mentioned. With them it doesn't matter what kind of head unit you have. Also make sure that the cables are thick enough and the contacts are good and clean.

Hint: I recommend to use a subwoofer with a remote control. You'll like to have one to manage the power...

Fleetwood -- With my iPhone (iPhone 15 pro that uses Face ID to sign in) on the rennin mount, it's within my line of sight while driving, making it easy to sign in (if needed). When playing music, my phone screen shows the music I'm listening to and interfacing with the phone to select other music, etc. is (for me at least) less distracting than other traditional stereo setups I've used. Similarly, using the phone with Waze (for directions/speed trap/traffic notifications) is pretty easy/intuitive. Volume control using the phone's side buttons becomes second nature and requires no more attention from driving than finding/twisting traditional volume knob. The rennline mount can be configured to provide power through the MagSafe interface (there's a usb-c receptacle on the bottom of the. mount that could be routed to a hidden usb outlet). I (so far) haven't been driving on trips long enough to make phone discharge an issue for me.

I do not have my phone on a mount in my classic 911. It sits on the passenger seat. I don't talk on the phone in my 72. It's too valuable to be distracted. I have a specific playlist on my phone.
My car is too light and quick and the roads too crappy to avoid not having both hands on the wheel.
I will say the sounds quality is great with my setup.

I bought a cheap $100 marine Bluetooth AMP that is the size of two packs of cigarettes that drives the four speakers. It has a small volume/skip controller that is hidden as well. Sounds great and connects faster than any other car I own.

I also ditched the head unit and went with an Infinity marine Bluetooth unit. I use a small Kenwood amp under the passenger seat to drive the door speakers and a self powered Kenwood sub also under the passenger seat. The system sounds great and I stream Pandora for the music I want to hear. I mounted the controller for the JBL into a radio delete plate for easy access and it eliminates the need to look at my phone to make changes/adjust the volume.

I value function over style. I like to get the local radio stations for traffic and weather advisories, as well as mix up the music selection. Thus I decided to just get a modern in-dash unit with Bluetooth so that I can run my phone through it, and get local radio when I want. I went with the Sony high-power and water resistant marine unit, DSX-M80. It does not play CDs. It doesn't look period correct, but it works well.

I have JBL component midrange speakers in the doors with the separate tweeters mounted in the upper corners of the dash/windshield. They are pretty light on bass. I plan to mount a compact powered bass unit on the rear shelf to fill in the bottom. Since I have 1973 comfort seats, there is no room under the seats for the bass unit.

If you have a separate bass+amp or self-powered bass unit, you do not need high power in the head unit, as it only drives the midrange/tweeters. Bass is what requires high power.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IM4paKyybYw/p_158DSXM80/Sony-DSX-M80.html

love that the new blaupunkt just disappears into the dash

Also a pic of the Pyle subwoofer under the seat. This plus the new coax speakers are all I need when I want to put my windows up and cruise.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735170384.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735170384.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735170384.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735170384.jpg

-Ian

I know which choice one-upmanship snobs make.

I picked up a blue tooth receiver and mini 200w amp on Amazon for 40$, its mounted behind a radio delete plate and I wired in a on/off potentiometer for the dash. Here’s some pics, other knobs are thermostat and fan speed. I’m not a real sound nerd so much as a minimalist so this is perfect for me, everything’s controlled from my phone. Center console has been deleted since.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735340969.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735340969.jpg

I have a Targa, so $$$ sound and amps is lost in the noise. I took a simple pragmatic and middle road - Continental with blue tooth for phone (works very well), Focal speakers and tweeters in the door, and JBL speakers on the rear deck. All were 1 for 1 swaps, is acceptable, and I stream music and call from my iPhone. Whole shebang was $350 bucks... Installed the door speakers in the parking lot at work over lunch.

I will admit that if I had a no sunroof coupe I would find a reason to install a McIntosh...

What focals did you go with? I'm sort of in the same mind as you. Have an '80 targa and planning on throwing the Blaupunkt headunit in. I don't really want to add a separate amp, even though I know I'm giving up a little bit by doing so. I just want to sort of refresh what's in the car right now. I wasn't even planning on replacing the rear deck speakers.

I just want some solid quality plug-and-play speakers for the doors (something I don't have to cut them apart to put in) and the Blaupunkt head unit.

If it were a coupe, I might be a bit more interested in actually making it sound amazing, but since it's a targa and the wind noise + heat exchangers and exhaust tend to add a lot of road noise anyway, having a perfect setup seems over the top.

Ian,

Would you mind sketching out your system showing how the component parts are connected and in what order? Like a map of your rig?

I want to reinstall a system in my 930 but am not a car audio guy.

Thanks,

Will

Greetings Will (86 coupe here...)

I rewired my entire system to include removing the fader control, new wiring throughout to include the body/doors and have never done even the most simple stereo tasks in the past.

New headunit, new amp, all new component speakers and direct (fused) wiring to the battery. Of course all new wiring from the head unit to the amp to the speakers.

Purchased all the proper gauge wiring for the power supply, new wiring for the speakers, new wiring from the headunit to amp, etc. Also, purchased a heat gun and material to properly cut and seal all the crimped/cut wires.

Had to take out the seats, and remove the back panel for easy access but in the end it was very very rewarding.

I researched the crap out of it and started mapping from the head unit to "new" power supply, and then mapped out headunit to amp, and from the amp to the speakers.

My system sounds fantastic and I was able to delete the old under gauged wiring from factory.

Hope you dive into it...it was well worth it to me. If I can do it ANYONE can!


I had some great threads, I thought saved (and contributed to) but not finding... at first it seemed impossible but once I visited a privately owned stereo shop and did some research here, in the threads, it was easier than I thought...



Not trying to hijack this thread so if you do start to query, you might want to start a new thread...a lot of people helped me.



Best of luck!
Erik

If you are new to auto sound systems you can call Crutchfield. They have great tech support and will tell you what to buy based on your budget and your specific car. I use Focal speakers but there are other options for less money. They will also give you installation help.

David - it has been a couple of years, but the Focal door speakers were essentially a direct drop in along with the tweeters. Decent sound all things considered. The rear deck JBLs were shallow enough to also drop right in...I ordered new rear deck mounting brackets from the dealership - they were inexpensive the the originals cam out in many pieces.

if you want to modernize there are many options with built in BT and ipod/iphone control that would work.

For amplification there are many "D" class amps that are incredibly tiny, but yet put out a ton of wattage. Do research though, some are better quality than others.

PS- If you want to sell your old amps/speaker setup, PM me, . I like vintage gear and have use for it.

rjp

plan is forming
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1736621847.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1736621847.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1736621847.jpg

Thanks to your input a plan is forming. The Kicker DSP amp has got my attention as well as a marine type Blue Tooth controller, possibly in the ashtray. The Infinity unit and others with a rotary volume control may be more appropriate for my skills

Still considering keeping the ADS 320I speakers with crossover boxes under the seats and one of the ADS amps but the DPS amp improvement and your advice has me thinking total upgrade. What speakers do you all recommend that fit the existing door panel holes. Would the existing ADS speakers work with the DSP amp and would the crossover boxes stay?

This is all part of a transition from a totally black interior to a black with brown seats and door panels look. My budget for speakers may be limited as the sport seat recover costs are significant

As always thanks again to all Pelicans who share the experiences and give me the courage to get with it and improve my favorite toy