I’ll second the Kicker Key dsp amp. I put one i my ‘74 with some morel speakers and the sound quality is very good. The auto dsp tuning is slick and works well.

Details on page 10 of my bud thread - https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/993492-74-widebody-hot-rod-build-10.html

Having a phone mounted in my vintage car kills me. An option I'm considering for the 911 is the NVX XUBT3. You can easily remove the knob and install most other knobs without issue.

If you measure right, you can put the whole face behind the mounting panel so you can't see any of the lights.

I put a guitar knob on one to match my Mini (center), but I was gonna use an original fog light knob or some such for the 911. My car doesn't have fog lights, so I can use the place where the knob usually is...Another option is a stereo blanking plate with a hole drilled in the center...Still leaves room to put a little amp back there if you don't have room under your seat:

https://ensaster.com/pics/vehicles/m...sh-labeled.jpg

I also had one in a Smart ForTwo ED that I face-mounted (after spray-painting black) to an ABS/HPDE plastic panel with a Vox amplifier chickenhead knob:

https://ensaster.com/pics/vehicles/s...iever-knob.jpg

I have to throw in a third on the Kicker DSP. I have this in my car driving the door mid/woofs and the door tweeters. Honestly, after running calibration the sound is amazing compared to a traditional amp setup. I have a powered sub under my drivers seat to round out the sound. Even though I rarely listen to it, it's awesome when I do.

My 90 Targa has a Mosconi Pico 4/8 DSP Amp under the seat.
I’ve added a Mosconi Bluetooth card to the amp.
Focal seperates in the doors and Focal ISub twins in the rear footwells.
Headunit deleted (looking for a worthy fill plate…Rennline not bourgeois enough)
Rear deck speakers are 4” Focals but I believe I’ll have to not use them for lack of channels.
Should know by the end of the week how it sounds.

I'm in the process of looking at speakers now for my doors if anyone's got any recommendations, there will only be 2 in the car so has to be an all in one type deal. Whats the largest that will fit without door modifications?

reassembly
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1740069262.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1740069262.jpg

Mounted an Infinity Bluetooth controller in the console and deleted the dash mounted radio/CD player. Reusing one of the ADS amps and keeping the ADS 320i door mounted speakers. All audio action now begins with my phone through the Infinity controller. Initial play had me wanting to adjust the bass/treble controls, which I am assuming are now on the phone, so they'll be more learning curve as I build play lists and understand capabilities.

Also reusing the existing speaker wiring that appears to be normal brown "lamp cord" with no identification/diferenciation for the "red" speaker wire versus the "black" wire. I've got the system operational but I cannot confirm the speaker wires are properly connected. Everything sounds good but I'd really like to confirm the wiring is correct. If anyone has some ideas on how to confirm, please help me out

Thanks to all the posters. The ideas and experiences identified made the modernization and simplification a reality with no wrong steps. Much more potential to move to a DSP amp, modern speakers, and updated speaker wiring that will have to wait as reupholstered sport seats in brown leather with perforated centers are only a few weeks out. Photos to follow

speaker wires clarification -- if you look closely at the speaker wires shown in the bottom photo, one has a ribbed surface (looks like they're both plugged into the red connectors) and the other a smooth surface (plugged into back connectors?) -- check other ends for same and you'll be all set

You can use a double AA battery to check wire/speaker polarity. Lamp cord also usually has markings to differentiate one wire from the other. Just Google how to check polarity with a small battery.

Your red (+) wires have a series of fine ridges that parallel the length of the wire (the - side is smooth). Given the short run, anything more than that wire gauge is unnecessary, particularly given the environment the system is operating.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1740072409.jpg

thanks Pelicans
 

Info on speaker wire polarity exactly what I needed. Thanks again. Now to take the door pockets off (again) and ensure correct wiring. This site really is the source for air cooled owner maintenance