how bad are my heat exchangers?

[francesconyc]

so i never noticed this before, but while I was replacing some heat hoses under the car I saw the side of the heat exchanger was super rusty on the passenger side

I know I want to replace them at some point (need to save some money considering I want to use an experienced mechanic in this case)

but in the meantime what can these cracks cause? lack of pressure in the heating ventilation? I never used the heater, I don't drive in dead winter so maybe that's why I didn't notice any symptoms before

[EC900]

Just a little rust-thru passenger side gets most of the curb side splash up.
Probably also not getting hot enough to burn off condensation in gas or short start ups. Also rust can form from sitting in rain or after washing, as for water has tendency accumulate up on top of the HE’s - note the portion that the hose attaches to the flapper in pic#1, might extend up to the crossover but not visible.
Lower metal skin has rust chipping away prob from water spray or damp/humid floor storage. I keep a fan blowing 24/7 and always blow dry engine compartment after wash/rain.
As for pressure this system puts out way too much heat, basically a sardine can wrapped around exhaust pipes…you won’t notice any or much heat loss with the holes I see. Might eventually start to rattle as the seams rust away.
I have a set of used HE’s if interested.

[GeorgeK]

Originally Posted by francesconyc

I never used the heater, I don't drive in dead winter ]

Then you don't need the heat function. Check that the actual exhaust tubes are intact and ignore the rest.
And you can wait for a good deal on HEs and change them whenever.

[francesconyc]

[QUOTE=EC900;12254795]


Tell me more. It may be something ill fix before but winter or as you said if start to rattlebut curious

[brighton911]

The biggest problem (money aside) will be the rusted nuts on the exhaust studs. Snapping a stud off will open a world of new troubles. Use lots of penetrant and heat (torch for sure).

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by brighton911

The biggest problem (money aside) will be the rusted nuts on the exhaust studs. Snapping a stud off will open a world of new troubles. Use lots of penetrant and heat (torch for sure).

Not to worry. He is going to use Professional experienced mechanics.

[nickelplated5s]

SSI's are on my bucket list and I'll probably take it in for the same reason. Plus is my car hasn't seen water in, literally, decades. What I don't know is it just a stud threaded into the head?

[francesconyc]

Originally Posted by brighton911

The biggest problem (money aside) will be the rusted nuts on the exhaust studs. Snapping a stud off will open a world of new troubles. Use lots of penetrant and heat (torch for sure).

yep, I saw SO many videos of the procedure, I def wont do it myself

[Mark Salvetti]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

SSI's are on my bucket list and I'll probably take it in for the same reason. Plus is my car hasn't seen water in, literally, decades. What I don't know is it just a stud threaded into the head?

Actually 12 studs, two per exhaust port. Six barrel nuts that require an Allen, six regular nuts. They are tough to access because the heat exchanger is in the way.

I wouldn't try to remove them without an acetylene torch, or maybe a MAPP. Propane probably won't get hot enough.

If your exchangers are trash, you can cut them off. That will give you much better access to the nuts. This is what I did.

Then you need to confirm if you need thin or thick flanges on the new heat exchangers. If you are 1980-on, they are thick.

Mark

[E Sully]

Mine looked almost that bad in '88 when I switched to SSI's. Living in the northeast and driving year round it was nice having heat.
I was fortunate that with penetrating oil and patience the allen nuts came off without too bad a fight. All the nuts and allen barrel nuts had to be replaced.

[tobluforu]

I used kroil, etc for a week. Then drove the car to get it good and hot. Put it on stands asap, got most off. Had to Dremel off a few.