Pulled the engine on my 84 Targa, now the fun begins!

[ErrorMargin]

I managed to get the engine and transmission out of my 1984 Targa over the weekend. Now the fun begins with:

• Transmission rebuild
• New AC lines
• new fuel lines
• Valve adjustment
• Leakdown test
• New engine and transmission mounts
• Inspecting all vacuum and other lines for replacement
• Inspect and maybe replace spark plugs, coil, cap, rotor
• Clean, paint and powder coat where needed

Is there anything else that I should be doing with the engine out?

Thanks to everyone who answered my many questions along the way:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1153356-can-t-get-clutch-arm-off-915-a.html
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1152964-stripped-cv-bolt-hacksaw-rescue.html
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1152985-remove-ignition-coil-cover.html
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1152881-these-speedometer-sensor-wire.html
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1152865-1984-targa-engine-pull-speedometer-sensor-wire.html

I had the rear of car up on jack stands beneath the torsion tube during the process of getting everything disconnected. Once I had the engine on the ground, here is the jacking setup I used to raise the car high enough to pull the engine out. I had the same setup on the other side of the car. First step was to jack the car high enough to get the rims in the picture underneath the rear wheels and then lowered the car down onto those rims. Then I added all of the boards underneath and on top of the jack as shown, so that I could jack the car high enough for the engine to roll out:



The big moment:

[ErrorMargin]

Here is my checklist:

- [x] Disconnect battery
- [x] Pull fuel pump fuse - 6th from left 25A
- [x] Engine Oil
- [x] Transmission Oil
- [x] Air filter housing
- [x] Bag cv joint
- [x] Fuse box cover
- [x] Oil breather hoses
- [x] Oil lines
- [x] Unhook oil return line from retaining clips
- [x] Heater hoses
- [x] Starter solenoid wiring
- [x] Transmission Shift Coupler
- [x] Transmission clutch cable
- [x] Throttle cable
- [x] Axles
- [x] Speedometer harness
- [x] Brake booster line
- [x] Cruise control
- [x] Sway bar
- [x] Wiring harnesses at throttle(take many pictures)
- [x] Ecu harness
- [x] Fuel injection harness, near drivers side shock mount
- [x] ignition coil
- [x] O2 sensor
- [x] Vac lines (take many pictures)
- [x] Fuel lines
- [x] Remove ac pump
- [x] Transmission ground
- [x] Engine grounds
- [x] Reverse light switch

[ErrorMargin]

I used a motor cycle jack and custom made engine cradle board that I then bolted to the jack:



Here are a few posts and videos that helped me drop the engine:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/959186-best-way-raise-rear-car-engine-out.html

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/07-Engine_Drop/07-Engine_Drop.htm

Here are a few videos that helped:

[almostordinary]

That looks terrifying.

I got heavy duty table lift from harbor freight and used quickjacks.

Had a motorcycle lift w wheels on the trans.

[BrakeL8]

Congratulations! I just finished re-installation after my first engine drop and Costa Mesa is near my old stomping grounds (moved to Austin from Laguna Niguel a few years ago).

I would implore you to ABSOLUTELY do the fuel lines. There's no better time - and there's such a PITA if not done now. In fact fuel lines are what lead to my drop and then a ton of 'while you're in there' items.

Some of the things I did:

All vacuum lines. Ordered Cohline 2633.1000 from belmetric for this line and phished it through (had to pull a foam block on the driver's side to free - then replaced this block. Might as well replace both). https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/435952-vacuum-leak-you-probably-didnt-ever-think.html. (photos from how I accomplished this recently on last page)
Used extra bits of the 2633.1000 line to cut pieces for all the venturi/air setups that connect on the top left side of the motor and cut off the ear clamps and replaced w/ 304 stainless versions from Belmetric. Last thing I wanted was old rubber leaking.

I did rennline G50 transmission mounts as had less options w/ the G50
For engine - Wevo 911 SS mounts but w/ the black pillows as this is a street car and upon discussion w/ Wevo & Rennline felt these together would work best.

Gaskets, sensors, had Sean @ Tru6 Cerakote my fan, a local powder coater here in Austin do all the engine tin, and then sourced

Some mcmaster & other descriptions that might help you:

Vibration-Resistant Single Pinch Clamps, 304 Stainless Steel, 23/32" to 53/64" ID, for Firm Hose and Tube, Packs of 25 (for all venturi setup. J hose sourced from pelican along w/ everything I could find) https://www.mcmaster.com/5435K31

A20434 M6-1.0 X 12mm Hex Head Sems Body Bolts from Clipsandfasterners.com to replace all these captive washer bolts that secure all engine tin and a lot of misc items and are nicely zinc and beautiful going back in: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Hex-Head-Sems-Body-Bolt-M6-1-0-X-12mm-p/a20434.htm

Franny / Heidi's incredible documentation in that whole series is fantastic as a resource - also make sure to clean electrical contacts w/ elelectronics cleaner - I spent ths weekend wondering why my engine was running on 4 cylinders only to realize all the original oxidation on the fuel injection harness was causing injectors not to get good voltage contact. Cleaned it and blew it out w/ compressed air and voila - engine running perfectly.

Best of luck!

[John W.]

Agree with BrakeL8. Definitely do the fuel lines if they’re the original 40 year old ones. Don’t get BBQued!

[Tony911Z]

While you're in there, consider replacing the o-rings and oil pressure switch associated with the "Triangle of Death" >1982 911SC oil leaks

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by almostordinary

That looks terrifying...

It did look a bit dodgy, but we checked frequently and it was very stable.

[almostordinary]

At least you had someone with you... I was solo... so I think I definitely failed my OSHA review

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by BrakeL8

I would implore you to ABSOLUTELY do the fuel lines.

Yep, if I'm reading the date codes right these are original lines and I will replace them.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1153621-fuel-line-date-codes.html

All of the info you provided is very helpful, thank you!!

[JTL]

This would be an ideal time to replace the clutch...

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by almostordinary

At least you had someone with you... I was solo... so I think I definitely failed my OSHA review

Oh yeah, I had a great helper and a few observers.

It was good to have a few extra pair of eyes and hands.

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by Tony911Z

While you're in there, consider replacing the o-rings and oil pressure switch associated with the "Triangle of Death" >1982 911SC oil leaks

Will do, thanks!!

[Bsess]

The only thing I would add to your list is to replace the sound deadening pad while the engine is out. They deteriorate with age and are virtually impossible to do with the engine in.

[BwshGulbleSheep]

Do you use OEM fuel lines?
Anyone have part numbers for all 3.2 fuel lines?

[BoxsterGT]

Here is my Re-Make of the 3.2 Main Tee....



and here are the Carrera Chassis Lines & Hoses I offer.....



len.cummings @ verizon.net

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by BrakeL8

…local powder coater here in Austin do all the engine tin…

How much did they charge to do the engine tin?

[BrakeL8]

Originally Posted by ErrorMargin

How much did they charge to do the engine tin?

Sorry totally missed this. I paid around $300 for the tin iirc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[88911coupe]

Can you say mission creep...a YEAR ago I dropped my engine with the ONE objective of replacing the pressure plate and clutch disc. Decided WTH, why not replace the flywheel too, then fuel iines, which had already been replaced when I did the rebuild 10 years ago, wait, fuel injectors could stand to be refurbished...then headfirst down the rabbit hole and I enjoyed every minute of it! (well, most of them) Its'a 3rd car and great therapy after 8 hours preparing boring legal docs all day. Maybe a professional therapist would have been cheaper, not as much fun though. NOW, I need to continue my 10 year fight to get the AC working correctly.

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by BwshGulbleSheep

Do you use OEM fuel lines?

I bought the body fuel line kit from BoxsterGT (see his post above) and sent him my engine fuel lines and the green hardline all to be refurbished, replated, new hoses, etc.

The only thing I had to buy separately with the J Line: https://griffiths.com/product/93011050901-2/

With all of the above my fuel lines from tank to injectors are now 100% new.