Ignition switch???

[toddu]

Trying to diagnose a no start. I need to load test the battery yet, but interior lights, gauges etc work. When I go to start I get 1 click and everything shuts down (gauges, fuel pump), which doesn’t really seem battery related. Thoughts?

[dleatherbu]

Sounds like a poor connection. Check battery terminals and grounding point for being clean and tight, retry.

[proporsche]

battery ground as mentioned, is not clean..
Ivan

[proporsche]

battery ground as mentioned, is not clean..
Ivan

[gbhumphrey]

So, I had same exact problem. Turns out my batteries were dead dead. Replaced the batteries and it cranked up.

[toddu]

Still checking grounds. So far nothing obvious or out of place. I need to get it up in the air and check tranny strap (I did replace it years ago). Going to put a jump pack on it to see if it starts. Battery reads 11.8 when trying to start, 12.5 with key off. Doesn’t seem out of line.

[ant7]

If the ground strap from Trans to chassis is not clean, then chances are, it will still start with a jump pack, however; the bad earth connection will only get worse, and in extreme cases can get very hot due to the resistance build up between the ground strap, and chassis, remove the ground strap, clean it at the trans end, and chassis connection thoroughly, use some copper grease compound when re-installing both ends, that should sort it!
Ant.

[phunt]

Check the wire to the solenoid for continuity. Old wires get hot and sometimes crack

[EC900]

A 4-5 year old battery might not hold charge, especially if it’s not an AGM type or some discount brands, so consider that.

The 12.5v you have might be too low to start, contributing factors; cold temps, N engaged clutch, heavy oil, prolonged storage w/o maintainer etc. and some hidden corrosion inside the cable.

Jump start and get a read on charge output for +13-14v.
Once started and running, check again next day to see if there’s a phantom draw or dissipation of the full charge of at least 12.8v.

Of course never a bad idea to regularly clean up connections.

[toddu]

I’ve just gotten around to being able to get back to looking into this. I replaced the negative ground strap on the battery (didn’t look great). No change. I just got the car in the air this evening. Ground strap looks fine and clean all around. I’ll disconnect, clean and reconnect for good measure. Tapped the starter a few times, same thing. Used a jump pack after trickle charging the battery for a while, no luck. Tried to get my son to listen carefully when turning the key, click (single) seems to come from front of car, not the starter (guess I was assuming it would be the starter solenoid). Not sure if this points to anything further? Think I’ve ruled out the battery (AGM, but it is old), ground straps (maybe).

[Alan L]

If you have the car raised, jump across the two terminals on the solenoid and see if it fires. That will isolate the issue.
Alan

[ant7]

Check and Change fuses in trunk fuse box, even though they may look ok, sometimes they just wont carry the current anymore, also, check and clean the wiring going to fuses, these are areas that get neglected.
Hope this helps.
Ant.

[Mike Andrew]

Going thru this now. Have a switch on the way from our host. I know what I will be doing Saturday.

[toddu]

Tested solenoid (terminal and engine, terminal and body ground), both 12.6v. Put it back on the ground and removed the battery. Took it to local auto parts and volts were fine, crank amps were like 300. Have to go to another store tomorrow to replace it. Will update after that.

[chucksmith]

one thing that I have found is that the terminals on the battery or connections to battery terminals have a barely noticeable corrosion. There is enough juice getting through to power some things but not start the car. Sandpaper all connections down, and try again.

[Alan L]

Originally Posted by toddu

Tested solenoid (terminal and engine, terminal and body ground), both 12.6v. Put it back on the ground and removed the battery. Took it to local auto parts and volts were fine, crank amps were like 300. Have to go to another store tomorrow to replace it. Will update after that.

How did you test the solenoid? Did you jump it like I suggested? That test will eliminate a number of things and confirm others.
300 CCA should give you some action - solenoid engaging, maybe slow partial starter action. maybe enough to get it to turn over.
Unless you follow a stepwise process you are just chucking parts at it and hoping.
There is a way to isolate whether your starter switch is at fault. But you need to do the other test first.
Alan

[toddu]

Multimeter, terminal on solenoid and ground meter on engine, ~ 12.6v. Terminal on solenoid ground meter on same location as ground strap, also ~ 12.6. I did not try the screwdriver method. I do keep it on a tender, but battery is probably 12 years old or so.

[Alan L]

So you are saying you had 12.6 V on the solenoid and it didn't budge?
Alan

[toddu]

If I was measuring correctly. Negative cable removed from battery. Positive lead from multimeter to terminal (where main lead is connected), and tried both negative lead from multimeter to random spot on engine as well as ground location on body near tranny. Both read 12.6.

[Alan L]

If you can't follow my instructions, I am unable to help you.
Good luck.
Alan