SC starter removal - help me see what I can’t see
 

I’m replacing the starter on my SC with a new high-torque unit. Everything except the upper fastener is a ten-minute operation once the car is in the air with the wheel off. I think the upper fastener is a 10mm hed head bolt. It’s not a 15mm nut like the lower attachment, and my 10mm hex socket fits in it but is a bit loose (and that’s what the manual suggests for both). I’m going to go find my borescope so that I can get my eyes on it, but in the meantime I’d appreciate anyone confirming what I think is up there. Trying to use the wrong tool to loosen a hidden fastener is the kind of thing that turns a simple starter job into an engine drop and I try to avoid mistakes like that.

Hi
From memory it is a nut with internal hex, similar to a 911 cylinder head nut
Suggest checking our hosts handy write up and pics:
Cheers
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_starter_install/911_starter_install.htm?srsltid=AfmBOoqCeYzm-Fq5zQbS4S6-g1IjlOP2Lr_3Rd33F04-vSnen0eylFXc

Ah, I thought there was a tech article but I couldn’t find it on the mobile version of the site.

Order new nuts to replace the old ones.

What's up there is a 10mm barrel nut. If you are lucky it's not partnered with a schnorr washer like mine was - it's supposed to be a wave washer. Bloody hell that was a pita to remove.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746430021.jpg

Instead of barrel nuts, you can use 14mm hex, which a 12 point box end wrench fits on fine. You can also get that in stainless, so it doesn't rust weld itself to the stud!

for the upper stud you must have this kind of nut...it is similar to head nuts but smaller diameter meeting the starter
Ivan
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746429997.jpg

It can be tricky to get the upper barrel nut. 10mm hex.
You can do it with a suitable extension length and 3/8 drive socket wrench. I cut a 10mm allen key to length to clear the starter end. I tape the allen key bit to a 10mm socket.
The easiest way to get to it, perhaps weirdly, is from the other side (LHS). If your car is high enough it is easier to reach over the bell housing. On the RHS you get cramped with the solenoid.
The easiest way by far is on a hoist from the LHS.
Alan

the best to do the upper nut is so called a bear hug with your right hand..it works well like this.Trying to insert the socket is a pita..

Ivan

^^^ Truth, the bear hug is the way. Just make sure that hex key is properly seated before breaking it loose.

Ivan,

I have skinny forearms and with the help of an endoscope camera, the job becomes more enjoyable. It is a very frustrating job if you don’t have the right set-up.

Tony

As mentioned above, just love your transmission and give it a loving hug. ;)

It is really pretty easy once you get the Allen socket in place. Just support the starter as you lower it to get to the electrical connections. And that all assumes you have disconnected the battery first.

The high torque starter works well, but it has a different sound that the Bosch starter. After a while, you will not notice the different sound.

I went through hell with heat soak issues on the factory style Bosch starter. It would get heat soaked after 8 to 12 hours of driving in summer heat. It would just lock up. I had to wait for it to cool down, or push start the car to continue on a trip. The high torque starter works 100% of the time.

I drove around in southern New Mexico in 107 degree heat all day, and it just worked. I have been in zero degree temps, and it fire right up.

I have two factory Bosch starters I need to sell for a bargain price. They work fine in normal local driving, even on hot days. Just not the extreme cooking from a 900 mile day of summer driving.

Like others have said, just reach over the top of the transmission from the left side. Doing so allows one to do this with no more than a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 10mm allen attached. No extensions required. You don't even have to see what you are doing, the lack of extensions and all of the wobble they induce eliminated, one can do this all by feel. Oh, and I have huge forearms and I find that I have plenty of room.

And be glad you don't have the G-50 transmission! That is a major pain to do on a G-50.

Tony skinny arms is a plus but in my case i go to the GYM 3x a week and i have on transmission the factory oil cooler--do not wish it on anybody;-))) but the bear hug is the best solution

Ivan

Thanks! That's exactly what I needed. My T14 hex bit was a little loose, which is what gave me the doubt. No need to rush, so I decided to ask and go back to it on Wednesday evening when I'll have time to finish it. The PO rebuilt everything on my car so there aren't any fasteners that haven't been touched in 40 years or anything like that.

I recall reading of the bear hug but wasn't clear on exactly what was meant - it's clear now. I may go raise the back end of the car on the jack stands, as I'm practically booping the transmission if I lie right under it, and since I've got a minor oil leak from somewhere, that's messy.

this is the way, I replaced my starter the same way. You kind of reach around the trans and give it a hug to back those barrel nuts off. If the stud is a little on the longer side it's kind of a pain in the ass getting the allen head to seat in the barrel nut and get proper torque on it to remove.

This is making me want to preemptively replace my starter on my 83 SC when I drop the engine.

Get the high torque starter part PEL-GE-STHT that’s at the top of the list at Pelican or the WOSPerformance WSP-LMS1102 ?

Or some other choice? Which one did you get OP?

as i mentioned trying to insert the allen socket is a pita -I always use only L shape 10mm Klein allen wrench from the tool kit

Ivan

What makes the L allen wrench easier than using a socket and extension?