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Join Date: Jun 2024
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 134
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How to replace front wheel studs on a 930?
I’ve just spent the last half hour searching and have read through a variety of threads about rear wheel stud replacement, but I haven’t come up with anything that clarifies front wheel stud replacement.
Is it possible to replace the front wheel studs without removing the hub? I’ll be removing the stock 45mm studs and replacing them with 66mm studs. Just trying to figure out how big of a project I’m in for. Was hoping it was something I could squeeze in this week that would be fairly quick but if I have to remove the hubs then I should probably hold off until I have more time. My car is a 1988 if that makes a difference. If anyone can clarify I’d appreciate it! |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Just remove the hubs. IMO, it will be much easier to press the old ones out and new ones in on a hydraulic press.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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You'll need to remove the hub unfortunately
Last edited by Ok here we go; 06-08-2025 at 05:09 PM.. |
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Join Date: Jun 2024
Location: Evergreen, CO
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Thanks for the replies —
Ok here we go — so you have removed FRONT wheel studs and they clear out the back without having to separate the hub? Then of course if the stock 45mm studs clear, will the 66mm studs clear? Thank you for the advice on the parts. In the past on other vehicles I have just used a hammer to punch them out and some greased washers or spacers to reinstall. The stud install tool is neat though, tempted to order that one. Pete — if it’s possible to replace them on the car that would be faster, easier, and require less disassembly / reassembly. I’ve replaced 5 wheel studs in about 10 minutes on other vehicles where all you have to do is punch them out the back and pull the replacements in. If it’s not possible on this car then so be it, but if it is… |
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You have to remove the hub. Not a big job.
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The 9 Store
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 5,348
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I also don’t like to hit bearings on their side. Might not be good for them. Might not matter but a press is just a nice way to do it.
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All used parts sold as is. |
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Quote:
I had to remove the hub and separate the rotor in order for the front 45m studs to be pressed out, and the 66mm pressed in. If you want to use a hammer to punch out the studs, you can but it'll be much easier to remove the hub. The rears I did myself with the ball joint and stud tools. Last edited by Ok here we go; 06-09-2025 at 12:49 PM.. |
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Location: Evergreen, CO
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Ok thanks guys, that's gotta make it conclusive -- just wanted to verify before diving in.
Trying to squeeze in some time one day this week to replace an axle boot, replace trans fluid, and adjust ride height. Not sure if I'll have time for the wheel studs / spacers in the same day but at least now I know to leave a bit of extra time for it. Thanks again!
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1988 Porsche 911 Cabriolet M491 - 3.3 turbo swapped 1994 Toyota Supra TT 6 Speed 2003 Subaru WRX - STi Swapped 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon |
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Location: San Francisco & San Diego CA
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Which studs are you going with?
I wanted to do longer studs F&R on my '89 M491 project car, but I couldn't find the right combination of studs that extended an equal amount F&R on 930/491.
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Frank Amoroso 911 M491 / M470 coupes: 1987 GP Wht / Blk "Apollo" 1987 Gemini Blue / Blk "Gemini" 1989 GP Wht / Blk "Vents" |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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I like the less aggressive method of doing the job on a press if you have the time and tools. Use it as an opportunity to inspect and repack the front bearings and bleed the brakes.
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Ok follow up question now that I’m starting to take things apart… do I need to disconnect the hard brake like from the front caliper in order to pull it off the rotor and be able to remove the rotor?
I hope not but it seems so. That would mean you’d have to bleed brakes any time you change or remove rotors (or do wheel bearings, etc) say it ain’t so. I currently have the caliper bolts out but caliper sitting on rotor still. Need to get rotor off for the wheel stud change. Stopped because I don’t want to break anything else… seems like I keep breaking things lately and I’m not a fan |
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Unfortunately yes. Get a Motive power bleeder. You can do a bleed in 5 minutes.
Last edited by zuch; 07-07-2025 at 09:33 AM.. |
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Thank you for the reply. There are many things I love about this car but to be frank, there are a lot of design quirks that make working on it an unnecessary pain as well.
I’m still learning the quirks one by one — of course it’s always slower and harder the first time and after that you know what you’re getting into. Oh well, might as well replace the wheel bearing seals, fully clean out the grease and repack with fresh, and add a brake fluid flush to the list. I’ve been trying to keep things simple… haha what am I new at this? The whole car will be new soon enough… |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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Some people will bend the hard lines just to enough to get the rotor off.
I don't like doing that. |
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