Cam oil line replacement how-to?

[terryb]

At a recent AX the tech inspector suggested that some oil seepage I'd noticed was coming from the cam housing oil lines but that they are easy to replace.

Is there a step-by-step guide for dummies like me on replacing these oil lines on a 3.2 with A/C? 101 Projects has the chain tensioner project which involves the cam lines, but also includes a whole lot more. I've searched the archives and am a little confused about how difficult the R&R would be. Does the muffler and engine tin need to come off? Can I just replace just the lines with the flex hose or should I replace the hard lines as well? What about other fittings like the hollow bolt? Are there gotcha's to watch out for or is this a simple project that even a doofus like me could do it? I've only changed the oil, plugs, distributor cap, fuel filter and seat switches so far, so be gentle!

Would anyone who's done this be willing to kindly share their experience and Pelican shopping list?

[makaio]

Terry, I don't have a step by step for you, but this is a very doable project for you. The hardest part being removing the distributor to replace the left side line.

I think Wayne's article on the installation of Carrera tensioners would be one of the most valuable here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_Carrera_chain_tensioners/911_Carrera_chain_tensioners2.htm

[Wil Ferch]

Look what I say here... at least it may help on the left side...

Replacing left cam oil line-help

- Wil

[terryb]

Thanks makaio, I do have 101 Projects and the tensioner article looked like a good reference but I wasn't sure how much of the article's removal instructions would be necessary for just the cam lines--muffler, engine shelf, etc. Looks like those don't need to come off?

Wil, thank you for the link. I don't know how I missed that thread while searching. Lots of good info, especially from JW about dizzy removal and is now bookmarked.

One more newbie question: do I need to drain the oil first?

Thanks.

[autobonrun]

Terry, I know you said "lines" but are both sides leaking or only one side. Hopefully it's just the right side.

[DonMo]

I had my lines go out 6 months apart. Messy and no warning lights. I needed to get my car back on the road so each time I had the local hydraulic shop recrimp the fittings on new hose. $5.

[terryb]

autobonrun - there's oil seepage on both sides of the engine under these lines. I figured if I'm going to do one I might as well do both. I know what you mean about doing only the right side, removing the dizzy does freak me out a bit. Screwing that up would, in the immortal words of Butthead, thuck.

Thanks.

[Wil Ferch]

When you do these...*do* the braces too, that weren't done by the factory until 87 or so. The vibrations can otherwise lead to catastrophic failure of the soldered-on ends of the hard lines. The braces are nothing more than rubber-cushioned clamps...one for each side....few bucks.

- Wil

[safe]

I did it without removing the distributor.

Made myself a tool. A 14mm wrench that I heated with a propane torch and bent it 90 degrees.
The I cut the oil line and slipped the wrench on and used an adjustable wrench on my bent wrench to to get the fitting off.

When fitting the new I torqued up the fitting in my wise (to get the cut ring seated on the line). Then I cut up my bent wrench like a brake line wrench so I could get it on the new line and tighten it up.

I hope you understand what I mean...

[88911coupe]

I'm tackling this now, I've fabbed up a box end wrench and may be able to remove the old one without taking out the distributor. However my question is WHY does this leak occur in the first place... and what can be done to prevent the new one I'm going to put in from doing exactly the same thing? I guess there's no sealant that can be used...? The old one seems to be snug as far as I can tell.

[T77911S]

which side is it? I assume the right since you mentioned AC.

the right really sucks but it is doable.
first big issue is getting a line that is going to fit.
order 2 or 3 from here. you may still end up having to bend one to adjust it to fit correctly.
on my 930 when I did the right side:
I removed the AC comp and laid it on the fender on some thick padding, with hoses attached.
remove the AC brackets.
I have to remove my bumper but I have it set up so that it is only about 10 minutes.
muffler has to come off to get to lower bracket bolts.
order 6 of the copper washers that go under the bolt on the cam tower.
you will use at least 2 for the line and if the adapter comes lose you may just want to replace the 3rd one. the extras are for if it still leaks later.
note: when you fit the new line, use the OLD washers until you get the line adjusted properly, then put the new washers on.
I don't remember if I did anything with the rear tin but I don't think so. if so at this point its no a big deal.

the AC brackets are the pain.
oh, find the line that fits the best and send the other back.

I did a thread on this with some pics.

don't get the factory line, it does NOT have the fitting that goes to the case.

[88911coupe]

Fortunately for me its the left side by the distributor so don't have to worry about the a/c stuff.

[T77911S]

that one is easy
if you need/decide to pull the dist, just remember which cylinder the rotor is pointing to. no need to go to TDC if you don't have to.

again, good luck getting one that you don't have to tweak to make it fit.
I tried several and ended up bending it.

lightly screw in the case end first, then if you have pressure fed tensioners thread that on, then do the cam end last.

[88911coupe]

Thats a good point, now that i think about it, I had to bend it bit to get it to fit when I did my rebuild years ago. I wonder if maybe I did not get the end on the case "seated" properly?

[T77911S]

you put the case end in first and snug it up.
then see how it needs to be bent.

I actually got one that would not go into the case because it was angled down so much it hit the top of the chain housing. because I could not get it in I could not bend it.

[88911coupe]

Able to remove the old one with a crows foot and was able to inspect it. It looks fine but when I re installed it (nicely snugged up) it leaks again. I'm fine with ordering another one from our host but why does this leak in the first place? Is there anything we can check or do to stop the leaking and make the seal effective? In looking at the new one in there now that I installed on my rebuild it looks like maybe the end that goes into the engine case is not cut absolutely 90 degrees but that may just be my imagination...or old/bad eyes. The original was in there for 25 years and never leaked a drop...maybe I need to replace the mounting bolt it goes into? This has been a really annoying leak but at least I know about it now.

[T77911S]

depends on where it is leaking.
mine leaked (or seeped) around the rubber part. if the rubber is leaking or oily it has to be replaced.

[OsoMoore]

I did this a few years back. Remember to put the engine in Top Dead Center (TDC) or you will have to figure out how to re-align things when putting the distributor back in. It takes a bit of tugging to get it out in the first place, just keep pulling.

I'd do both lines at once. If one goes, the other is not going to lost much longer.

You can see timmy2's good short description in my old thread here:
Oil Drain to replace Left Cam Line? Valence Fixing?

[88911coupe]

Thanks but I just used a crows foot and it was easy to remove. Ordering a new one from Pelican but wish I knew what caused the new one to leak in the first place, which started right after my rebuild. Other side is fine so leaving well enough alone there and it's relatively new.

[sugarwood]

Can this left side oil line be replaced without removing the distributor?

I wanted to replace mine 2 years ago, but chickened out.
Replacing short oil line near distributor ?

The part is on my bench and laughs at me every time I do a different project.
Something about messing with the dizzy scares the crap out of me.
Like one false move, and it's a no start can of worms.