Oil return line leak

[Mike Czech]

I have slowly eliminated almost all oil leaks on my engine. I’m not getting any drops of oil on the garage floor anymore, but I seem to have a very small leak from the oil return line (see picture). Today I took off the driver’s side heat exchanger hoping to tighten the return line up. It seems to require 35mm and 32mm wrenches (I have an open-end 32mm, but not a 35mm). The 32mm that I have barely fits on to the engine-side 32mm fitting,with full access blocked by oil-return tube etc. and isn’t too secure. Any ideas on how I might tighten these up given the limited space/access? Any special tools required?

Thanks much for any advice.

[john walker's workshop]

As long as the exchanger is off, take the line off the case fitting and use a big socket to tighten the fitting.

[Mike Czech]

Thanks for the tip. I'll wait until I do my upcoming oil change for that. I imagine that oil would spill out of the case when I remove the fitting, so best to do both at the same time. Thanks again for your advice.

[Magyar Kiwi]

Suggest you try to isolate where the leak is coming from first:
1/ Fitting to crankcase crush washer
2/ Oil line to fitting
3/ Somewhere higher up.
Then take appropriate action.
Do not over torque the fitting in the crankcase; it is possible to crack the boss on the crankcase.
Cheers

[eastbay]

I would replace the hose with new, pull the case fitting and apply thread sealant, tighten with a socket as above, install new hose. It's probably rock hard and loose since it cant flex anymore.

Either grind down the wrench you have so it fits, or go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap one to grind down. Every car you have should have a number of purpose modified tools for it.

Don't have a grinder? HF has 4" grinders for $14.99, you should have several.

[Magyar Kiwi]

Hi
What is the FOD inside the Blue marking doing there ?
Cheers

[Mike Czech]

@Magyar Kiwi: That is one of the exhaust gaskets sticking out before I tightened down the heat exchanger. It's in the right place now. Otherwise, I'm positive that this is the location of the leak. I don't have any other leaks, and there isn't any wetness above this spot.

@Eastbay: It's actually not a hose, it's a pipe. I like your idea of applying sealant. No Harbour Freights in the Czech Republic, though. ;-) I'll see if I can find some cheap 35mm/32mm open-end wrenches (maybe ebay, or a local equivalent of Craig's list) that I can grind down to get better access. I have a number of purpose-modified tools. My favorite is the PVC tubes with a bolt/nut in the hole that I cut to hold up my timing chains in place of the tensioners (similar to Stomski's mechanical tensioner holder) when I took off my cam sprockets to replace the cam gaskets that were leaking. I'll probably never use them again, but I thought it was an ingenious solution if I may say so. ;-))

[proporsche]

Mike, all you had to do is just ask ;-) it is 36mm wrench for the oil line
Ivan

[Mike Czech]

Just to follow up on this. I did my oil change yesterday and tackled this oil leak as well. I removed the oil return tube blocking access to the 36mm/32mm fitting. Once the oil return tube was out of the way, and a trip to the hardware store to buy a 36mm wrench, it was a relative simple task to take the 36mm line off the 32mm fitting as John Walker suggested, tighten the 32 fitting into the case with a big socket, and then tighten down the 36mm line fitting into the case fitting. Then re-install the oil return tube, the heat exchanger, and NO MORE LEAK! ;-) Thanks much for the tips guys. Appreciate it. I'm very close to a completely dry motor - the first time in my nearly 30 year ownership of the car.