Q's on moulding underneath pop-out quarter windows

[Fab64]

Hi all,

I'm currently working on converting the fixed rear quarter windows on my '84 coupe to pop-out windows, and I need some advice/opinions.

The metal trim piece (moulding) that goes below a pop-out window (901-543-921-28) is completely different than the one used for a fixed window (911-543-195-00). There are 5 mounting holes in each, which are almost identically spaced. The difference is that the pop-out moulding mounts about 1/8" further back than the fixed window moulding. This means the existing holes in the fender are not lining up. The forward-most and the rear-most are not a problem. The problem is with the 3 new holes in the middle. They are so close to the existing holes, I'm not sure how to handle it.

I placed the moulding on the fender, and marked the location of the new mounting holes with pencil. Here are the 3 middle holes:











I'm afraid if I drill a hole where it needs to be, it won't hold a screw because of the hole that's already there.

Possible solutions:

- Have the three middle holes welded up, then drill new holes?

- Possibly use JB Weld to close the existing holes up?

I'd appreciate hearing how other people have handled this issue.

Thanks.

[PeteKz]

I would keep the holes in the fender where they are, so that you still get good grip on the screws. Then I would redrill the holes in the lower moulding that screws onto the top of the fender. You won't see mismatches there because the window covers the strip except when the quarter window is open. Even then, It's hard to see.

[Tom_in_NH]

Use a sheet metal screw clip for each of the new screws. Just reach under the qtr panel from the wheel house to hold them while installing the screws. I would also finish up with some seam sealer over the clips and the old holes from underneath.

[Fab64]

Thanks a lot for the replies, guys. Both have advantages.

Originally Posted by PeteKz

I would keep the holes in the fender where they are, so that you still get good grip on the screws. *Then I would redrill the holes in the lower moulding that screws onto the top of the fender. *You won't see mismatches there because the window covers the strip except when the quarter window is open. *Even then, It's hard to see.

I like the idea of using the original holes, and I had considered this . The main drawback is that the trim holes are dimpled to accept the countersunk screws. I'm not real confident in my ability to dimple new holes at all, let alone right next to the current ones, and have it still be presentable. However, I'm sure black dum-dum could hide a lot of mistakes.

Originally Posted by Tom_in_NH

Use a sheet metal screw clip for each of the new screws. Just reach under the qtr panel from the wheel house to hold them while installing the screws. I would also finish up with some seam sealer over the clips and the old holes from underneath.

I wondered if these holes might be accessible from underneath, but hadn't yet checked. It would likely entail getting some longer screws of the same diameter i currently have.

And, yes, regardless of which method I use, I would apply seam sealer or dum-dum to protect everything from below.

I'll have to think about both of these for awhile. Thanks again for the suggestions.

[evan9eleven]

Redrilling and dimpling the trim piece will look terrible. Better to go with one of the other solutions.

You can access the screws from underneath, so that works for the screw clip option, but you will really struggle to drill new fender holes right next to the old holes. JB Weld may or may not hold up there, but is easy to try.

I welded mine up and drilled new holes, since my car was going to paint anyway. IIRC I used 2.5mm bits, and broke several redrilling next to or through the hard welds.

The effort was worth it though, the popouts are cool!

[Fab64]

Thanks for your input, Evan.

Originally Posted by evan9eleven

I welded mine up and drilled new holes, since my car was going to paint anyway. IIRC I used 2.5mm bits, and broke several redrilling next to or through the hard welds.

The effort was worth it though, the popouts are cool!

If my paint wasn't so nice, that would probably be my preferred method. I may check around to see if it's possible to weld without harming anything around it.

[MattTHEpainter]

Just went through this exact issue on my '70. I used m3 rivnuts and proper countersunk screws so it didn't dimple the molding. Even where I had to drill an adjacent or overlapping hole for proper fitment since the rivnut collar is oversized. Came out perfectly after the PO used the wrong screws.

I was going to nut and bolt it if the riv didn't work. Glad to expand or provide pictures.

[Fab64]

Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

Just went through this exact issue on my '70. I used m3 rivnuts and proper countersunk screws so it didn't dimple the molding. Even where I had to drill an adjacent or overlapping hole for proper fitment since the rivnut collar is oversized. Came out perfectly after the PO used the wrong screws.

I was going to nut and bolt it if the riv didn't work. Glad to expand or provide pictures.

Yes, I would like to see some pics, please. I found some tubular nuts today that I thought might work. But riv-nuts would eliminate having to come in from the bottom. Thanks!

[Fab64]

Thanks to all who responded to this post. After much deliberation, I decided to stick with the original self-tapping screws to mount the trim. Only two of the new holes intersected, and they were far enough off center that there was still enough metal to "bite" into.

I carefully measured and marked the new holes, then used a Dremel tool and a very small drill bit to make pilot holes. These first two pics show the holes that were completely separate:








These two only slightly encroached on the original holes:






I'll check them occasionally to make sure they stay in place.

Cheers!