Question on factory-installed pop-out rear windows

[Fab64]

Hi all,

I recently converted to pop-out rear windows and ran into an unanticipated issue. The front edge of the pop-out window weatherstripping extends far enough forward that it's being "clipped" by the door window frames when I open or close the door.

----

Closed:



Over time, the constant hitting by the door frame acts to pull the weatherstripping out of the pop-out window frame:



I owned a '72 with pop-outs, but sold it 30 years ago. My memory's a bit hazy, but I don't remember this being an issue. There's no fore/aft adjustment on the pop-out windows. Is it possible I may need to adjust the door window frames so they are a bit further forward? I'd really rather not mess with them. I'm hoping someone with factory-installed pop-outs can confirm that this is the way it is supposed to work, or if I have a problem?

Thanks for your input.

[catuck]

It looks like the seam between windows is too tight at the top - something looks out of alignment. Perhaps it's just tight enough to cause the problem. On my car, the seam between door window trim and rear window trim is perfectly parallel with a gap about the size of the lower corner of you rear corner window.

[EC900]

I just checked my factory pop out seals in original condition. No such deformation. Looks to only be 1/4” of rubber that’s suppose to extend under the door window frame. Sealing shut, you should be able to pull a dollar bill out when door is closed, and the pressure is even along the entire seal.

Any water leak or infiltration from a garden hose spray?
Any deformities in the new seal before installation even though it wasn’t an issue until more recently?
How does passenger side look or fitment issue over time?

Assuming you’ve installed factory replacements for pop-outs as the seals have different profiles than fixed. The PET catalog has a small diagram of these two different profiles. I’ll mention this for any others that may not be aware.
Yours appear to be correct - but the seal had shifted, and wonder if the straight side was installed first and drawn around to the back curve to avoid slack on that flat end.
But anyway since you done this awhile back it could have just been snagged out of the channel too and trying to pop it back might be tricky.
When installed they sit far and behind window frame for it to be a door slam shut issue.

Avoiding a reinstallation it might not work.
Since I don’t know for sure if the excess of that rubber profile can somehow be tucked back onto the frame.
Did it roll out or dislodge due to the door being shut? Maybe. I’m thinking it was accidentally pulled out… got rubbed against while reaching into the back seat.
Try this:
Warm up the seal, hair dryer or hot water and try to manually squeeze profile back into the channel using a blunt plastic trim tool or paint stick. Might work pushing with a thumb. Careful use of a dab of silicone along the area or dish soap to make it easier to slip in. Try and wiggle it back and forth, up and down to allow seal to re-seat.

Or after warming up the seal with a hair dryer or hot water to make the seal as pliable as possible, use tape (blue tape) to fold it back in line and flat against the window frame. With the seal taped down, Let it sit a few days and check if it returned to a better state.
The use some chalk, powder on that area to see and determine how the door slam makes contact and is pulling the seal out from the channel. It also might give up an idea if the door or window frame needs a tweak outward.

Would contact cement hold it permanently in shape if all else fails…probably. But that’s a quick fix when trying to avoid removing the window and reinstalling the seal again, and would be dependent on if there’s any water or air noise getting it.

I don’t think window frame has any real adjustment, the door could be slightly off kilter, a parallelogram affect. The window frame can be a bit bent, they get most of the handling when slam shutting. They’re pretty sturdy, more so with window up. Could try to tweak the frame outward but there’s no sure way to not overdo it and it really doesn’t budge much - if at all.



This may be be a last resort quick fix…..

[Fab64]

I appreciate the replies, gentlemen.

Originally Posted by catuck

It looks like the seam between windows is too tight at the top - something looks out of alignment. *Perhaps it's just tight enough to cause the problem. *On my car, the seam between door window trim and rear window trim is perfectly parallel with a gap about the size of the lower corner of you rear corner window.

Chris - Unfortunately, I think you're right. I was noticing the top (horizontal) part of the door frame also looks like it could be a bit low. Apparently, one of the previous owners mucked around with the frames for some reason. Shortly after I got the car three years ago, I had to make a minor adjustment to pull the top of the driver's door frame out slightly. At the time, I was afraid to do much more than that. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet and learn how to perform a more involved adjustment.

Originally Posted by EC900

I just checked my factory pop out seals in original condition. No such deformation. Looks to only be 1/4” of rubber that’s suppose to extend under the door window frame. Sealing shut, you should be able to pull a dollar bill out when door is closed, and the pressure is even along the entire seal.

Any water leak or infiltration from a garden hose spray?
Any deformities in the new seal before installation even though it wasn’t an issue until more recently?
How does passenger side look or fitment issue over time?

Assuming you’ve installed factory replacements for pop-outs as the seals have different profiles than fixed. The PET catalog has a small diagram of these two different profiles. I’ll mention this for any others that may not be aware.
Yours appear to be correct - but the seal had shifted, and wonder if the straight side was installed first and drawn around to the back curve to avoid slack on that flat end.
But anyway since you done this awhile back it could have just been snagged out of the channel too and trying to pop it back might be tricky.
When installed they sit far and behind window frame for it to be a door slam shut issue.

Avoiding a reinstallation it might not work.
Since I don’t know for sure if the excess of that rubber profile can somehow be tucked back onto the frame.
Did it roll out or dislodge due to the door being shut? Maybe. I’m thinking it was accidentally pulled out… got rubbed against while reaching into the back seat.
Try this:
Warm up the seal, hair dryer or hot water and try to manually squeeze profile back into the channel using a blunt plastic trim tool or paint stick. Might work pushing with a thumb. Careful use of a dab of silicone along the area or dish soap to make it easier to slip in. Try and wiggle it back and forth, up and down to allow seal to re-seat.

Or after warming up the seal with a hair dryer or hot water to make the seal as pliable as possible, use tape (blue tape) to fold it back in line and flat against the window frame. With the seal taped down, Let it sit a few days and check if it returned to a better state.
The use some chalk, powder on that area to see and determine how the door slam makes contact and is pulling the seal out from the channel. It also might give up an idea if the door or window frame needs a tweak outward.

Would contact cement hold it permanently in shape if all else fails…probably. But that’s a quick fix when trying to avoid removing the window and reinstalling the seal again, and would be dependent on if there’s any water or air noise getting it.

I don’t think window frame has any real adjustment, the door could be slightly off kilter, a parallelogram affect. The window frame can be a bit bent, they get most of the handling when slam shutting. They’re pretty sturdy, more so with window up. Could try to tweak the frame outward but there’s no sure way to not overdo it and it really doesn’t budge much - if at all.

EC900 - I only just finished this project a few weeks ago, so no long-term experience yet. I haven't tried shooting water at it, but I'm sure it's not watertight (I can see a tiny bit of light shining through in a few places). It would probably endure a normal rain without much leakage. I don't take it out in the rain, so that's not too important for me.

The seals were on the windows when I bought them (used), and I believe they're factory. They were not fully seated in a few places, so I worked them over and got everything seated pretty well. I was able to get the seal on the one in the picture pushed back in. And, yes, it was dislodged due to the door frame hitting it.

Passenger side exhibits the same "clipping", only not quite as bad.

As stated above, I think I need to adjust the window frames. I'll see if I can improve the situation, then will report back here with results.

Thanks again!

[evan9eleven]

I recently converted to popouts on my SC. I think you may have multiple things happening here.

One is that the door itself may need adjustment, but this would be obvious looking at the door gaps.

Another is the window frame as mentioned above, though there isn't a whole lot of adjustment possible on these.

The outer seal on the popouts needs to be seated properly too, as you already know. I used a rubber mallet to seat mine (really!) and they've stayed put after that. Genuine Porsche seals in may case, they cost a small fortune.

Another thought: as you know, there are two metal tabs that insert into the B-pillar that serve to mount the popouts, and work as a hinge. These can be bent slightly to adjust the window fore or aft by a few mm. Probably not enough to solve your problem, but worth considering if you have the windows out to re-seat the outer seals or change seals. (For those who don't know, pulling these popout quarter windows out of the car is easy, unlike fixed quarters.)

How is the fit of your popouts at their "pointy" end, are the gaskets tight against the body there? If they are sitting too far forward you may have gaps at that end, which may be helped by tweaking the hinge tabs a little. One of mine sits a few mm too far forward , so I'll be trying to adjust those hinge tabs this winter to solve it. That said, I don't get any interference between the door window frames and the popout gaskets.