Interior paint for plastic

[Johnr352]

I’m looking for a black spray paint color that closely matches the black of the plastic on the dash and the AC controls on the center console. I know I’ve seen posts on the subject but am having a hard time finding a good recommendation.

Can anyone please point me to the posts on the subject? I apologize in advance.

[jess p]

I’ve been looking at Plastidip, comes in a rattle can. Should be able to get it on Amazon

[PFNog]

I’ve had good results with SEM plastic paint products
https://semproducts.com/product/trim-black/black

[zuch]

SEM trim black

[Johnr352]

Originally Posted by zuch

SEM trim black

Thanks! And you’ve had good results compared to the Porsche plastics? Still working on my little gauge and switch pod for the console but you can see the color mismatch.

[MTN930]

Perhaps consider covering it in black leather? Might look really nice and it's super easy to do.

The gauge/switch cluster, that is...

[EC900]

It will be difficult to find any exact match because the plastic, old plastic, fades over time. Taking in that lighting, shading and surface texture add difference too. It will take a few different $16-$25 rattle cans of experimenting to find what will look pleasing. Nothing may be exact match when it comes to old plastic.
SEM products are an industry standard, same for Eastwood Auto.

Over the counter hardware and auto parts stores tend to carry generic name brand alternatives of same day convenience rather than waiting shipping from body shop paint suppliers.

One thing you can do is “knock down” any sheen with denatured alcohol, the sheen comes from paint solvents evaporating at different rates as it cures. That little tad of surface solvent can be wiped or buffed to dull it.

I re-sprayed my knee pad and although it’s just black it’s still a little too shiny (like new) when offsetting the shade to the rest of the dash. More noticeable went sunlight hits it but it matches the door cards so it looks original.

Whichever you choose, Spray some samples sheets and compare before actually painting the components. Inspect under various angles and lighting. Two coats, three max to achieve color, anymore could cause unevenness.
Using vinyl/fabric paint tends to leave a sheen, bonds well to plastic too. Lacquer dries fast, hardens and lays flat self correcting…but careful the plastic as may be ABS and might distort it (i.e. it melts ABS surfaces). I was going to respray my Fuchsi with this but settled on leaving the faded black patina. Sometimes “too new” shouts replacement part.
Again - matching is an art, it’s not all paint but technique.
Also, since it’s going to be a little challenging to achieve a match consider a flat black that can be softened up with a matte clear topcoat, and then theres satin vs semigloss clears.

[EC900]

Forgot to mention - don’t spray over different paints. Remove old paint first then apply a new color or paint compound. Urethane can’t be applied over lacquer. Some of these interior paints won’t be compatible to bond different brands. Light Scuffing and prep any plastic surfaces as you would a metal.

[Johnr352]

Originally Posted by MTN930

Perhaps consider covering it in black leather? Might look really nice and it's super easy to do.

The gauge/switch cluster, that is...

Was thinking of that though it would then be very different than the ac control bit above.

[Johnr352]

Originally Posted by EC900

It will be difficult to find any exact match because the plastic, old plastic, fades over time. Taking in that lighting, shading and surface texture add difference too. It will take a few different $16-$25 rattle cans of experimenting to find what will look pleasing. Nothing may be exact match when it comes to old plastic.
SEM products are an industry standard, same for Eastwood Auto.

Over the counter hardware and auto parts stores tend to carry generic name brand alternatives of same day convenience rather than waiting shipping from body shop paint suppliers.

One thing you can do is “knock down” any sheen with denatured alcohol, the sheen comes from paint solvents evaporating at different rates as it cures. That little tad of surface solvent can be wiped or buffed to dull it.

I re-sprayed my knee pad and although it’s just black it’s still a little too shiny (like new) when offsetting the shade to the rest of the dash. More noticeable went sunlight hits it but it matches the door cards so it looks original.

Whichever you choose, Spray some samples sheets and compare before actually painting the components. Inspect under various angles and lighting. Two coats, three max to achieve color, anymore could cause unevenness.
Using vinyl/fabric paint tends to leave a sheen, bonds well to plastic too. Lacquer dries fast, hardens and lays flat self correcting…but careful the plastic as may be ABS and might distort it (i.e. it melts ABS surfaces). I was going to respray my Fuchsi with this but settled on leaving the faded black patina. Sometimes “too new” shouts replacement part.
Again - matching is an art, it’s not all paint but technique.
Also, since it’s going to be a little challenging to achieve a match consider a flat black that can be softened up with a matte clear topcoat, and then theres satin vs semigloss clears.

Wow thanks for this. Very helpful

[Johnr352]

I use a clear plastic primer which help with adhesion, getting the sheen right though, is a trick.