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When disconnecting shift coupler hex, is the rod suppose to slide out/ fall off ?
I can't quite interpret Wayne's book on this. For the engine drop is the hex just removed , or is the hex removed, and as a result, the rod is suppose to slide out totally? (mine stays in the tunnel)
Thanks
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1969 911 E Coupe "Little Bull" "Horse" "H." Heart, "G." Gears, and "P" the Porsche |
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Depends on which end you are loosening. You can loosen the hex (I think it's a 4.5mm if I remember correctly) or you can loosen the end with the nut and bolt. Either way is fine, but you might want to mark it before you remove the motor. I used an exacto blade to do it. It makes it easier to get it close to the correct position when you put it back together.
While it's out, I would also recommend replacing the coupler bushings with the ones used for a 914. Not a typo. I said 914. Can you imagine such a thing? ![]()
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"I understand that you want to drive fast, it's just that I want to go faster!" Move ova please ![]() Chad aka "Chili" 1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit. No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.) My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI 1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras. |
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I removed the hex nut, but nothing seemed to happen.
I do not want to fool with the coupler bolt, as I like the current shifting. Bushings are fine. What should I see that's different when the hex nut is removed? Is it that I will not notice any effect until the motor begins to be dropped??
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1969 911 E Coupe "Little Bull" "Horse" "H." Heart, "G." Gears, and "P" the Porsche Last edited by H.G.P.; 07-16-2003 at 07:33 PM.. |
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You need to move your stick shift toward the rear of the car, and then the linkage that runs through the tunnel will move forward, away from the trans. The linkage must pull away from the transmission, completely separating. It will not separate until you move the gearshift.
If the linkage has not been apart in a while, you may have to lightly rap it with a screwdriver or something, and use some penetrating oil. In any case, you want the linkage completely detached from the transmission before you begin dropping the engine. Edit -PS I think I mentioned before that it's a good idea to put the gearshift in the foreward-most position (1st/3rd gear if you have a 915 trans, or 2nd gear if you have an earlier 901-which is what you have I believe) so the transmission shaft is tucked into the trans. as far as possible. It makes dropping the trans/engine easier later on.
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993 Last edited by cowtown; 07-16-2003 at 08:13 PM.. |
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Yes, it's a 901, and after removing the hex today, I tried moving the shifter in nearly every position, and no separation. (I tried the moving the shifter to the rear method (after hex removal), but "everything came along for the ride" and it went right into gear..no seperation.
So it looks like I'll need the penetrating oil.
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1969 911 E Coupe "Little Bull" "Horse" "H." Heart, "G." Gears, and "P" the Porsche Last edited by H.G.P.; 07-16-2003 at 09:18 PM.. |
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Its shift rod is just stuck in the coupler.
After appling penetrating oil, try wiggling the shift coupler and the shift rod back and forth with a set of plyers on each. They will come apart.
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Stu W. 76 911 turbo. 79 911 SC. |
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Thanks, the penetrating oil did the trick.
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1969 911 E Coupe "Little Bull" "Horse" "H." Heart, "G." Gears, and "P" the Porsche |
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