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Chicken ***** about valve adjustment
OK, I've read every post I can find about valve adjustment, the tech article, and 101 Projects. I've ordered and received the tune up kit, feeler gauge and extra blades from our host. I've put red locktite on the little bitty nuts on the feeler gauge.
101 Projects rates this a 3--as it does a windshield gasket removal and replacement, which I managed in less than two hours. Having never adjusted valves before, I'm more than nervous, but I need (and want) to get to it and get it done. Please give me your best advice before I begin!
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A J Burns '07 Guards Red Carerra 4S 911 Coupe w/Aerokit '86 Iris Blue Carerra 911 Coupe (given to my son) '63 Morgan Tiger Cub w/original Atomic 4 |
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I've done this sucessfully one time before so I'm not an expert but I could offer some moral support if you need it. Just let me know.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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Don't worry, you can do it. Just let us know if you get stuck. I've done it on motorcycles, Porsches, and even my Plymouth mini-van !
-Rob 1980SC |
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one of gods prototypes
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when doing your valves make a checklist for the cylinders and mark them off as you go along.........i found this makes stopping for beer no problem and you won't forget where you were (it happens LOL).
too loose is better than too tight....... and we're here for you...... as this board was for me when i did mine the first time
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Brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
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I especially appreciate the reminder to document progress. Beer runs do get in the way of progress, but not success!
Thanks, City of Oaks residents! (That ought to tell you how long I've lived here....)
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A J Burns '07 Guards Red Carerra 4S 911 Coupe w/Aerokit '86 Iris Blue Carerra 911 Coupe (given to my son) '63 Morgan Tiger Cub w/original Atomic 4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: SW PDX
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...and if/when you get it right (took me two times), you feel so gooood inside!
...or was that the beer?
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Scott 74 914-6 2.7 |
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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"too loose is better than too tight....... " that hasn't been my experience
![]() On valve adjustments; It's tough to get them too tight AND still get the feeler gage out with a reasonable tug. The down-side of cranking them too tight, is it generally distorts (wrinkles) the feeler blade. Kind of a pain, to replace, if you have the type with the tiny screw-in do-dads. If you leave a wrinkled feeler blade in the tool, to be reused; the next ones you adjust will likely be too loose. Loose makes them quite noisey, as the components beat upon each other.
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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Its a 3 in theory....but its a 7 in the real world. Trust me. Getting that little feeler in a dark little hole is tougher than....well you get the picture.
Also, when you think you have them done...you button it up and find that you hear a little tapping and you have to do it all over again, including the oil bit. Worth $250 to pay a mechanic, which I just did. Car runs so smoooth now.
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Planet Eugene
Posts: 4,346
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My best advice is to relax.
Also, don't make any drastic changes. If totally paranoid, take it to your mechanic when you're done and ask to have them checked. |
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Formerly bb80sc
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hollywood Beach, CA
Posts: 4,361
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No sweat, if you get some ticking, just go in and re-do it. You will soon develop the *feel*. As far as the oil goes, you can jack one side of the car and do the *high* side without losing much, if any oil. Unbutton, adjust, button her up, and do the other side if needed. We are here for you buddy
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Cheers -Brad 2015 Cayman GTS 2015 4Runner Limited |
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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"don't make any drastic changes" is sound advice.
The mistake that gets people in trouble is adjusting (loosening) a rocker when it's "on cam". (they back it waaay off = klackity-clack later) If you give the rocker a little "rock" you can feel the gap (if it's "off cam"). As strange as it may seem, after a while you can just rock the thing, and by feel know if it is tight or loose. (you check with the feeler gage still, though.) It's worth a lot to know your 911!
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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Quote:
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Mark 1988 Black on Black coupe |
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Location: Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York, USA
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By all means get the excellent valve-gap feeler tool made by Doug Zielke, a member of this forum. It has a semi-endless length of .004 stainless, and you just pull sime more out and carefully bend it into place when the piece sticking out gets dimpled or rough.
Stephan
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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Irrationally exuberant
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I think doing them in the car should rate higher than a 3 myself.
Chris (<- a wuss who does them when the motor is out for some reason)
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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I live on the north end of Raleigh. Send me an e-mail if you need some help with your valve adjustment.
Except for finding a few of the gaps this was a relatively easy job.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
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I did mine for the first time recently - here's a few things I learned...
Relax. If you find yourself getting tense and frustrated, stop and come back to it later - or the next day. Put loctite on the nuts on the feeler guage. If the car is running failrly well at the moment test some of the gaps before you loosen them so that you get a feel for how tight it is. It'll give you something to compare the adjusted ones to. You need to slide the blade up the stem of the vave towards you a bit before it'll slot in. Don't be tempted to use a blade that has a small split - it might snap off (ask me how I know). |
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The Unsettler
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Drop the motor.
Definately use loctite on those stupid little nuts. Get a set of ratcheting box wrenches. If you don't finish in one day don't just set the a/c compressor back in without the bolts, it will not sit in the right place and when you go to close the lid it will ding it from the inside, ask me how I know. Recheck your work before you button it up. If you have a reliable wrench who will do it for $250 pay the money. Scott
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,247
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I've heard from people that it's not worth the trouble just to save a couple hundred dollars.
But others wouldn't have it any other way. You really don't get to know you motor until you do a valve adjustment and feel confident that you've done a good job rather than trusting some mechanic to do it for you. |
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Dept store Quartermaster
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: I'm right here Tati
Posts: 19,858
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I think it depends on the car as well. I did my 930 with the motor out and I was still a little nervous. I can't imagine doing it with the motor in but I am sure I will someday. If you can get it done for the $250 mentioned above I will guarantee you will be regretting doing it yourself after the first couple hours and you have that nagging "am I doing it right" feeling. IMHO
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Cornpoppin' Pony Soldier |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Tip #1: The valves don't change much, check them before you loosen the adjuster.
Tip #2: Don't remove the spark plugs. Doing so can dislodge carbon bits that can keep the exhaust valve from seating - throwing off you adjustment. -Chris
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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