Ouch. Found gear bits in my trans!

[cstreit]

Well thanks to Souk (as usual) we got the engine and trans out.... I don't care what ANYONE says, its MUCH easier to take the engine out without the trans. Did it with the trans and it was a pain in the arse.




ANYWAY it turns out I have a 74 magnesium case. Mechanical speedo, but it has the guts of the later 8:31 transmissions. Also has a Quaife in it. However, when we pulled the end bell off, this is what we found:



That's not good.

Also, the donor trans has the differntial backwards, so the transaxle will run BACKWARDS, which makes sense, the guys who gave it to me had it built for a mid-engined hybrid Causey special.

So.... the donor trans has to come apart. I need to replace the shift rod because it was ground down for a cable shift setup, and pull the transaxle shafts to reverse the diff so it runs in the proper direction! FUN! Look at all the metal in my gear oil.

[RoninLB]

sorry for your pain

once upon a time I did a backwards install on an inboard marine gear box.. I told the owner that I don't think it'll last thru the season.. yack, yack, yack..

I figured 20 hrs.. my buddy said between 10 & 40 hrs.
it lasted 6 hrs

[Garrett]

looks like synchro parts, not gear teeth...?

Usually that's what makes up the pieces!

[dd74]

Chris, that's gruesome.

Is there any way to tell when there are metal bits inside the transmission while driving the car? Or is it only when the transmission is taken out and disassembled that the metal bits become apparent?

[MotoSook]

Hey Noah, I have a few more blue jump suits. I can send you one if you want to join my band Devo!

Actually, that thing is great and hot!!!!!! Great because it allows me to wear office clothes underneath!

dd74, there was an unusually large amount of metal bits attached to the drain plug and the metal debris was just suppended all in the gear oil. I'm sure it would have worried anyone to see the oil and drain plug without having the diff cover off.

[cstreit]

Well fortunately the "backwards" gear box was hardly run at all. They installed it in a 2.0L motor and it was waay too much trans for the motor....

[KTL]

I still can't believe how easy (and not jacked up way high in the air) your car is when it comes to taking the motor out. Guess it helps when you can easily yank the carbs and take all that height off the top of the motor.

Anyway............ my buddy Mark (username kiwior) just did his 915, so if you have any questions or need any tools? Let us know. He's got a press, syncro holding tools, custom made crowsfoot for torquing a mainshaft nut, all sorts of stuff to get it apart and back together the right way.

[cstreit]

Thanks Kevin. I'm not planning on changin gears, so hopefully I won't need this stuff. I assume I don't need to take off that mainshaft nut to remove the shaft from the housing do I? (Assuming that the carrier plate goes along with it...

[1fastredsc]

To remove it from the housing as in the gear housing no. But if you plan on redoing the syncs and teeth then it's gotta come out and the press along with other tools are a must. BTW, anyone no where to get a holder for the input shaft for torquing?

[KTL]

No problem Chris. Good luck!

I believe a set of soft jaws (plastic or aluminum) in your vise is a simple way to hold the mainshaft while you torque that nut.

[pbs911]

Chris, that really sucks. The trans has served you well. Doing a engine rebuild and a trans rebuild in one year - for the first time- will be quit an accomplishment. You should be set for some time with some faster lap times!

Great because it allows me to wear office clothes underneath!

I wish I would haven known this earlier. I ruined three suits and ties doing my 3.6 conversion.

[cstreit]

I don't need top change syncros. The new box has recently been rebuilt. I had to pull the gear stack off to put the diff in correctly (for forward) and to replace the gear selector rod.

Oh. I cannot find the M8x45 bolts for the 6 bolt/100mm CV's ANYWHERE! If anyone has 24 of them for me, please let me know, I am getting worried that I'll get it together, and then not be able to bolt the CV's on!

[Early_S_Man]

Chris,

Did you try a local nut & bolt supply store, or a VW dealer?

[cstreit]

Warren, Not yet... That's next I think....

I assume they are Grade 8 or above?

[Early_S_Man]

Chris,

They should be DIN 12.9 ... don't accept anything less (10.9 or 8.8, or 9.8) ... and be sure they are Allen drive, not Polygon drive, AKA Triple-Square!

[derek murray]

chris... eagleday has 10M CV bolts (ASTM 12.9) listed on their web site... maybe they can supply 8M to your specifications.


http://www.eagleday.com/sohebo.html

[MotoSook]

Chris, call NAPA and check. I got some M8X40 hex from there when I need them in a pinch. It was not as long as stock, but the 40MM one just protrudes out, while the stocks give you a few threads beyond.

They looked like the were the same grade, but I was in such a hurry that I didn't care. I used a combination of stock and NAPA bolts just incase the NAPA part was not Grade 8 or better. I have not had any problems, although I should order some stock one eventually.

You may have to stop in as some of the counter people won't know what you are talking about. The NAPA off of North Aurora Rd pass the Metra Station is the distribution warehouse, so they'll likely have them. It should get you through the race if you can't find any better.

Edit (add): you can pull them off the Turbo too! They should be the same! Worth checking!

[keitho64]

Chris

Don't forget about Metrics in Burr Ridge for your bolts. I am sure they have them. Sorry to hear about the transmission woes. I may be able to offer assistance Thursday or Friday evening but I have a wedding to attend this weekend.

[Early_S_Man]

Chris,

I forgot that Metric & Multistandard is one of your 'local' bolt stores ... definitely the first place to call! I have gotten my CV-bolts from them since 1979!

[304065]

Warren,

Why allen-head and not XZW or "Tripple Square?" Other than the convenience of not having to use a special tool?