Auto Detailing - Help I'm confused

[kbruz]

While washing my car last weekend, I noticed that the front hood feels a little gritty. When I run my hand over the washed and dryed surface, I can still feel particles on the paint surface.

I read lots of previous threads on detailing and claying your car. I thought that was the way to go (claying the paint surface). After reading carcareonline.com , I am more confused then ever.

DOes any one have any experience using a clay bar on the paint? Or is this even the right approach.

Lastly, there was a recent article in Panorama magazine or maybe Excellence on auto detailing. Does anyone know which magazine and issue?

[ricwon]

On my car I used Mother's clay bar kit which included the detail spray, then used Meguiar's glaze and finished up with Mother's carnuba wax. On my guards red finish it turned out pretty good. I think Griot's garage sells the whole kit which some people really like and other's think their product is overpriced.

[Pat S]

I use clay often. It's great for tar, bugs, overspray, bootmarks, etc. I have two pieces, one for removing dirt, and one for finer work. Just remember to replace it often since it holds all the dirt that it picks up. And if you every drop it on the floor, throw it out. Once small pebble would be a disaster on your paint.
I prefer Mother's but Clay Magic (I think that's the name) isn't bad either. You can usually find one or the other at Autozone/Pepboyz/etc..

[JeremyD]

I use clay too - great for getting rid of the rough spots. I use the griots stuff too. Yeah it's expensive for what it is - but they have some real quality products - and I don't use them on a chevy, do I?

[chuckr]

It is easy to get confused with all the info out there. The one thing you must keep in mind is that Porsches use a different paint than .. say a Chevy or a Ford or a Honda and different polishes and waxes respond differently to paints and colors. I'd suggest first trying a good cleaner wax like Mothers Cleaner Wax or Mequiars Body Scrub.Then use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, then One Grand Blitz Wax.The other recommendation is Griots Fine Hand Polish and Best of Show Wax.
The Griots Polish will get all light imperfections out of your paint.If this still has a gritty feel then you will need to do the Clay Bar.

[Randy Webb]

Yes, always use a polish first. Clay after if you need to. Contact Meguiar's for advice.

I wouldn't waste money on Griot's stuff.

Opinions differ re clay -- I'm sure Larry Reynolds sees a lot of people abusing it. Always use a lot of liquid on the clay.

[scedmonds]

I use Pinnacle's clay kit which includes the spray "lubricant." Mine is a 20 year old SC but the paint job looks terrific.

In addition to the clay, I use Klasse sealant, all-in-one, P21S paint cleaning lotion, and P21S carnauba wax. Amazing.

Cheers!

C.

[jmohn]

I just used clay on mine this summer, I was finding the same "rough spots" you mention. Clay took them right away. Just be sure to use plenty of lubricant (I use Meguiar's detail spray) and don't "clay" the finish any more than is necessary. I think that's why some people are reticent about using clay; if you don't keep the surface well lubed, or if you over use it, or fail to turn it and keep a clean surface, or continue to use it after it's full of debris you can damage your finish.

Jerry M
'78 SC

[carreradpt]

I think you should wash the car first, then clay it before you polish or wax. Claying will remove the "stuff" that sticks to your paint. If you polish it first you will be rubbing the "stuff" into your paint. Use plenty of lubricant as already stated. Just use the clay very lightly on the car and kneed it frequently.

[kepperly]

I found the same 6" Porter Cable variable speed random orbital
buffer that Griots advertises for $195.00 at Lowes for $107.00.
I use Mother pre wax cleaner, sealer glaze and carnuba wax.
I buy the 6" velcro pads from Mequires and use a micro fiber bonnet to buff off the last of the wax. So far I have buffed out
three of our local PCA club members cars with only high praise for the results. Plus a little loose change for the effort.

Keith Epperly Wichita PCA zone 10, go to our cars

87 slant nose carrera cabriolet turbo look. summer yellow, Fikse 17"s

[Carrera Charlie]

In our paint chip repair business, we see a lot of gritty paint that we clean up with Griot's Paint Cleaning Clay. The results sometimes look so good, it appears as if we polished the car with Griot's #3 and /or Hand Polish and a random orbital buffer!

Always wash your car first before claying. Also, clay your car before you polish it, otherwise you rub the grit into your paint and create a terrible mess.

Use a lubricant like Griot's Speed Shine on a 100% cotton cloth to keep your waste to a minimum. Wet the cloth, wipe your paint surface to get it wet and then rub the paint with the clay bar. Keep the wet cloth right next to the clay bar (eg. cloth in left hand, clay bar in right) to keep the surface wet while you're working. This method also prevents too much clay debris from building up on the surface of the paint. Wipe off with a another clean, wet 100% cotton cloth to lift the residue and then buff it with a dry microfiber cloth. Your paint surface will feel like polished glass!

Griot's products do cost more than most others, but the results have been superior. My car is worth it and so are our client's cars (Porsches, BMWs, Mercedes and Lexus). For the record, I am not affiliated with Griot's and get nothing for the recommendation - I just believe they have very good products.

Good luck and enjoy the results!

[kbruz]

THanks for all of the responses. My saturday is planned.....

[Carrera Charlie]

KBruz,

Let us know how it turns out!

Cheers!

[Randy Webb]

"clay your car before you polish it"

- He's referring to polishes that contain mechanical abrasives. Some of the posts above incl. mine, and the Meguiars Co. call a chemical designed to feed the paint and clean it a polish. It's imp. to be clear about what was meant in each case. Clay before you use a chemical feeder polish or a mechanical polish, but always use a chemical cleaner before you try the clay. I only have to clay my car every few years (garaged), and just use cleaners and non-abrasive polishes before I wax.

[nestorjw]

that Griots stuff works fabulously

[kbruz]

Here are the results. Thanks for everyone who gave me information. Took about 5 hrs this morning to complete the job.

pictures once I figure out how to shrink the file.

[silverc4s]

What C Charlie said. That is the precise method to use.

[azasadny]

3M Imperial Hand Glaze followed by 3M Show Car Wax. Great results on my car.

[Randy Webb]

"Griot's products do cost more than most others, but the results have been superior."

- Here's my take on Griot's -- they obviously do not make the chemicals themselves, so the question is -- whose chemicals are they rebranding?
Someone with a gas chromatograph (& etc.) could probably figure this out....

I'm suspicious of claims that are not based on side by side tests. I've never seen anyone compare the Griot's stuff to P21s, Malms, Meguiars or anything else. I leave out Zymol because it isn't really useful on cars that are driven -- but it is shiny for showroom or museum use).

I use the Meguairs Gold line (with use of the tan line) and it has always worked great for me, so I see no reason to change. It is inexpensive, and they provide great customer support -- besides having a long lineage (and hence a rep. to protect), and besides employing quite a large number of chemists.

Finally, the "best" wax, etc. will vary depending oupon your climate. What is best for the high sun, high UV, high pollution of LA or Phoenix may not be best fo the rain and fog found in the PNW. In the SE (say the Appalachians) the climate would be similar to the PNW, but the acid rain is very high. In the NE, there is high acid rain, high levles of other pollutants, and snow and ice effects (if you drive in winter) -- and cold temperature effects even if you don't drive in winter.

For anyone in doubt the best thing to do is to use the entire line (wash,cleaner, polish, wax) of two brands on either side of the hood ro roof (top facing surfaces) and next to each other on the side of the car. See how long it lasts and how it looks -- take Notes. The 3M stuff works well also, BTW.

And don't believe hyped up claims without any data behind them. My view is that you don't have to pay a lot to get good performance of these chemicals.

Oh yeh -- one other thing about Griot's: it's a little off-putting to buy from a guy who has to put instructions in his catalog on which way to turn a friggin' bolt. Says something about his target market....

[89911]

Did you ever notice how "Griots" and "Idiots" are so closely spelled? Jokes aside, I get there magazine (too much it seems, at least one copy a week both at work and home!), and even have ordered a few things from there. I did go try some "Clay Magic" yesterday on my wife's SUV. The stuff is fantastic!!!! What would once take me several passes with a buffer and compound, now comes off with just a couple wet passes with the clay and lubricant. I did my whole SUV in about 20 minutes! I then followed up with some spray on Meguires wax and I'm done. And I have used all products and I would be hard pressed to tell the difference between what took me about an hour and the torture jobs a would do with elbow braking rub on wax. Hooray for technology. If youv'e never used clay before, do it. The car feels "showroom" new!