External Oil Cooler Install-Pics

[Silveresrty911S]

Just got most of the hard part done on my (new to me) 28 row brass oil cooler, stock brass lines and thermostat in my "77" 3.2.
To this point it's taken about 6-7 hrs and I still have the rocker to re-install, drain oil, remove oil line from tank to engine line, connect both hard/soft lines to thermostat from tank and engine line & secure.

It's been fairly straight forward but could have used a second pair of hands a few times. I figure maybe 3 hrs tops left to complete and test for leaks and oil level.

Here's the my breakdown....

Had to make my own cooler bracket

Cooler mounted with new soft lines to hard lines, I used some anti-sieze on the male threads




You'll need to remove the antenna to get the hard lines in


I couldn't find any good pics of where to locate the bracket for the lines in the rocker so I improvised with these locations


I had to buy the thermostat saver for the used thermostat on one side, just used some red loctite then screw it on

Here are the two locations for the new hard/soft lines you'll have to buy. It's the connection from the oil tank to the engine line

I'll post some more when I'm finished and thanks to this site for all the old and new posts, I'm sure it would have taken twice as long to get where I'm at....... Rick

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally posted by Silveresrty911S
I couldn't find any good pics of where to locate the bracket for the lines in the rocker so I improvised with these locations

The mounting holes for the rocker covers are used for the oil line clamps too. You can see ghosting of the rubber spacers with correct placement from the previous install in your picture.

In fact it looks like there is a piece of the old rubber spacer still stuck on there.

Not to worry, you'll be fine.

[Silveresrty911S]

Chuck,

That piece of rubber is new, it was hitting the flange for the rocker so I cut one to fit in. I just finished the project and took it out for a spitited drive in 90+ degrees after I let it idel up to temp and added 3 ouarts of oil. I can't get her past 200 and I stopped after about 10 minutes of running and the cooler was hot to the touch....Yeeepeeeeeeeee!

Only bummer was there is a small leak where I added the thermostat saver couple and used red loctite, it's not dripping very fast but I'd like to know what is the best (easiest) way to stop it from dripping any more.
Took me a total of 9 hours from start to finish and a total of $700.00 from Pelican for all the new lines, hardware and e-bay for the cooler, hard lines & thermostat. Feel very satisfied with the results, now for some colds ones.

Rick

[ChrisBennet]

I can't tell from your picture, is your cooler mounted with rubber or hard mounted?
-Chris

[Silveresrty911S]

Ghris,

It' both actually, hard mount to body of car and rubber mounted bushings/washers on the connections. Hard to fit my camera in those tight places..

Rick

[Chuck Moreland]

You really want to rubber-mount the cooler. These are just the ticket:

[Silveresrty911S]

Chuck,

There is one of those mounts on the top and I used rubber washers on the bottom two mounts, do I need more?

Any good sealants out there to stop a small oil leak?

[surflvr911sc]

Great job Rick. I’ll be installing my Dad’s cooler this week but at least he has all the lines already so it should only take a couple hours.

Can you disconnect the line, clean it up, and try to reseat it?

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally posted by Silveresrty911S
Chuck,

There is one of those mounts on the top and I used rubber washers on the bottom two mounts, do I need more?

Any good sealants out there to stop a small oil leak?

If your rubber washers are thick (maybe 3/8 inch) you'll probably be fine. You should use the rubber on both sides of the mounting hole.

[banjomike]

Do I recognize that 28 row cooler from ebay recently? I was watching it to see if I could steal it at a really low price, but it got in to the reasonable good deal range and I gave up. Glad a fellow Gruppe B-eer got it! It is a thing of beauty.

Do you autoX? I would love to know how a 28row cooler does under the high RPM and relatively low speed conditions of autoX. The trombone has proven to be far less than adequate.

Congratulations!

[Silveresrty911S]

Mike,

Ya, I got it on e-bay for 215.00 which I was willing to go as high as 250.00. Got a great deal on the lines & thermostat for 76.00 including shipping from the east. I'll be testing this November/ December for temps, first autoX & then performance driving school @ San Diego region PCA.

Thanks Rick

Chuck,

I think I'll add some larger rubber washers this weekend when I'm trying to solve the minor leak at the thermostat.

Ryan,

I guess I could but it's the inside one where I put the thermostat saver nut & loctite, it would probably be a BIG PITA. I'll play with it a week or two and see if I can solve it "McGiver Stlye"

Rick

[larry47us]

I am having a '73 911E Targa restored for me, and I asked the shop to put a Mocal oil cooler in for me. I asked him whether he was going to route the lines under the chassis, and he said that it was typical to route them along the rocker panel.

Is this correct? I see your lines are routed along the bottom of the chassis. Is there just that much less room on my '73 911 than on your '77 car?

larry

[Silveresrty911S]

Larry,

I believe your car has the small indentations under the rockers and that was done in "69". Mine are in the rocker area which is the stock brass oil lines in the stock location, many posts on "oil cooler, lines" or "Mocal cooler" if you do a search. There are plenty of pics along with some excellent info on this site.

Rick