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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 97
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Just bought the Rennline Strut Brace from PP and ready to install.
Wayne says not to remove the rear outer camber bolt but it looks like it bolts up to the rear outer and inner bolt on either side.... Just had the car lowered, aligned and corner balanced so I really don't want to screw anything up. Thanks in advance!!!!! |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 97
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SCWDP- Shock and Awe Dept
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How in the world could it have been properly aligned w/ all the factory sealant still on it? You may want to find another alignment guy after this.
I think you will be fine if you jack up the front to relieve the suspension and then make sure the front bolt is good and tight before you loosen the back two. You will have to get all that sealant out of there though. Take a screwdriver or chisel and knock if off. Maybe make a mark at the back of the shock mount so that you will know if it moves on you, then line it back up if it does. Again, I’m really surprised to see the sealant completely intact.
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Ryan Williams, SCWDP '81 911SC Targa 3.6 '81 911SC Coupe 3.2 #811 '64 VW Camper Bus, lil' Blue |
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Formerly bb80sc
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hollywood Beach, CA
Posts: 4,361
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Sorry to burst your alignment bubble, but it appears the front is the same as when it left the factory. It looks like you'll want to clean off ALL of the black undercoating before installing the strut anyway. You *should* be able to remove just the fronts or just the rears and retain your current settings. However, you also may want to consider fully removing the camber plate and remove all of the undercoating on the plate itself, as well as in the strut tower opening. Then, go get your alignment and have them adjust the strut brace as well.
These are just my opinions, but I think others would probably agree. Good luck with your project ![]() -B
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Cheers -Brad 2015 Cayman GTS 2015 4Runner Limited |
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Registered
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Phoneguy,
Here is a technique that will allow you easy access to clean the parts and still restore your current settings with a high degree of accuracy. Use some masking tape, put a piece of tape on each fender top, roughly square accross the car from the damper tops. Then place two further pieces of tape on the scuttle, immediately in front of the windscreen - and directly behind the strut top in car line. Make an "X" mark on the tape. Now use a rule or tape measure and take a dimension from the "X" on the tape to the strut center. Record each dimension on the piece of tape it corresponds to. You now have two dimensions that reference the strut top to the "X"'s marked on the tape. As long as you do not move or remove the tape, you can be sure to re-position the strut top to the original location by using the dimensions you recorded. You can now remove all the bolts, even the whole strut top to clean, detail, or replace. I agree, those strut tops have never been moved, so your alignment must have been exactly what you asked for - or......? Regards Hayden |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 97
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!! You guys rock!
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