![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 58
|
the gasket between the fender and the cowl- hard to replace?
Has anyone ever replaced the small black plastic seal that runs between the front fenders and the A pillar / cowl? Mine are looking pretty shabby and they're only a $3 part, but it looks like you need to remove the fenders to replace them. Is this a big job? any tips? thanks.
__________________
Troy 1989 911 Carrera 2001 Audi A4 1.8t quattro |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: MA USA
Posts: 2,938
|
I have replaced those gaskets during a repaint. The fender was off. I don't know how you could replace those without removing the fender. The gaskets are ribbed so they can't slide out. At the very least you would have to pry the fender away a little, but if you do that the seal to the body would be ruined.
__________________
Dean 911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno, |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,955
|
Never replaced mine on my 911, but they look pretty similar to the 914 style. The 914 also has the ribbed gasket - the parts look almost the same.
On my 914, I was able to pull the old ones out, and simply press the new ones in place. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sunapee, NH
Posts: 1,109
|
When I paint , complete or partial , I remove that seal. Loosen the 2 inner bolts accessible at the door opening, careful, they will fall in and you may need a pair of extensions with a swivel between to gain torque. Loosen four of the inner fender bolts from the cowl forward. Insert a plastic wedge between fender and wheelhouse, I use a windshield tool, or plastic wedges for FRP parting of molds. Grab a hold of the seal and yank out. Trim 3/4 of an inch off the new seal as it is very difficult to set in the full seal. Even helps to throw it in the freezer, makes it a bit stiffer. Align the drop of the seal, where it fits in under the hood, and start tapping in with a plastic mallet, holding it upright between your fingers. You can use silicone, I would never infect my shop with the stuff. Works like a charm for years...
__________________
Damon @ SERIES 900.com Sunapee NH several 911 variants |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 132
|
Do some of the cars have the fenders tack welded (964's?), and if so, do you have to break the welds in order to replace the seals?
-Eric |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Troy--
I did this a couple of years ago and its not difficult, though it does take some patience. My beading was pitted and looked like crap. As Series 900 points out, you need to loosen the bolts INSIDE the door opening - they are a 5MM allen bolt if I remember correctly. LOOSEN them, but do not remove them! Also, loosen the 4-5 fender bolts inside the trunk closest to the A pillar. The old beading will likely be stiff and a bit hard to remove. I highly recommend using some sort of plastic wedges to loosen the beading so as to not damage your paint. Once I got it partially out, I used a pair of pliers and a vice grips to get a good hold on it and pull it the rest of the way out. Depending on its age and condition, it make break in half as you try to extract it. Once its out, I highly recommend cleaning out the channel - you'll be amazed at the amount of crap that found its way in there. I then sprayed liquid silicon in the channel - it helps the new beading slide into the channel. FYI - the beading comes in 2 different widths - 3MM and 4.5MM (again if memory serves me correctly) - I think the turbo used the 4.5MM, but I installed it on my '85 Targa because the 3MM looked too wimpy.
__________________
Steve My '85 911 Targa ** Hand painted center caps for sale here RIP Warren PCA & Rennlist member |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |