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I love my T! Fun to drive and except for the webber carbs all stock.
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My 70T had the engine rebuilt by the PO. He elected to install E pistons to increase the compression ratio and also reground the cam to E specs.
The origianl zenith carbuertion was retained. Although it will not win any drag races, it definitely feels very spirited off the line and is a blast to drive. Remember that these cars only weigh about 2500-2600#, so a lot of HP is not necessary. |
Hi,
I have a 3.6 in my 1970T .. nice combo ;) ... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1065488331.jpg Joe |
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Matt,
Here is a test written by Mark Donohue in 1969 ... you might find interesting reading: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56161&highlight=hey+ear ly+man |
Great article Warren, thanks. Matt
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If yo lookin fer a perfomance increase, fuget about des fellas, juz use dis ez calcerator:
Mo Power fer Nutin' :D :D :D :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes: |
FWIW, I am glad I got a T. It's can move ok when I want it to and in traffic, I am not rowing my way down the street since I got a bit of low end grunt.
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Harry, I looked but couldn't seem to find the improvement in 0-60 provided by the biggest wing, neon lights, and every sticker possible. Oughta be worth at least a second, right? And where's the coffee can muffler, everybody knows that's a requirment for a true performance car.
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Are you planning to drag race? If not then don't sweat the HP.
The car is plenty fun to drive as-is. If you want more smiles-per-hour out of the car, then suspension improvements will be the most effective. Everyone fixats on HP. But smooth, controlled, high speed turns are a bunch more fun than pushing the ego pedal down. |
All '68 (European model only) thru '71 'T' engines used the 66 mm stroke crank without counterweights ... but, it was forged, too, not cast as the urban myths have it! Many racers like the 'T' crank because it is so much lighter and revs quicker ... and it is perfectly safe to 7000 rpm. When the 2.4 'T' engine was developed it used the same 70.4 mm crank as the 'E' engines, not tufftrided like the 'S' and 'RS' engines.
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from Warren's scan -
"[The Porsche] is a teutonic NASA mobile miniaturized for the highway." :) |
Hi Matt,
This has been a good thread, and you've gotten lots of great advice. I've owned about 10 Porsches (I neither get them first, nor keep them forever) in my life, ranging from a '62 S90 to an '88 Carrera. I like the early 911's best of all. My current car is a '70 coupe with a 2.7 engine (E cams, Webers, Carrera tensioners, etc., etc), a 915 transmission, Carrera flares, leather sport seats, and so on. My point is: find a car you like, and do whatever you want with it. But trust me, you won't like a car with rust. Ts are fine cars and lots of fun. If I recall correctly, the '69T was the only one with the cast iron crank. Personally, my favorite has always been the '72 coupes, so yes, my '70 is for sale! Good luck to you, John http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1065548084.jpg |
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I'm really glad I started this thread, it has totally alleviated any concerns of mine about the T being underpowered, or less entertaining than other models. If anything, it has reinforced the idea that this car, or a similar one, would be great for me. Thanks for all the input and enthusiasm, it's very contagious. I read the forum in the evenings and then lay awake in bed, thinking about purchasing my first Porsche. Bad for sleep, but probably good preperation for my upcoming first kid. Thanks again everybody, Matt
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"perfect" gearing is a function of how the car is being used. Is it a street car? Autocrosser? A race car running big Willow? Thunderhill? Gears are not one-size-fits-all. "perfect" gears are different for all situations.
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Chuck, I'm wondering if there is a general improvement (not necessarily a perfect setup) that could be made, specifically for an E's gearing. In my case, most driving will be on the street (suburban driving & spirited driving in the NoVA countryside), but maybe 20% of the time the car will be used for DE's on tracks like Summitt Point, VIR, Mid-Ohio, or Watkins Glen. I'm asking this because my read on Warren's earlier post indicates that a general improvement in gearing might be possible for E's and S's. Maybe I'm just wishfully thinking. :) Once again, sorry for hijacking onewhipped's thread.
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In very broad terms, for most of our "spirited" road or track use, the stock 3rd-5th gears are too tall. The gist of optimal gearing, as my layperson's mind understands it, is that you want to be right at your power peak (typically 5500-6500 in early cars) in top gear (5th) at the end of the longest straight. Then you optimize 2nd-4th so that they are spaced fairly evenly and do not result in having to shift at inopportune times.
Obviously as Chuck pointed out, this is a track-by-track or road-by-road optimization process. In the real world, all gearing choices are a compromise. If you gear your car optimally for your local track then it could become virtually undrivable on the street. My particular car has very short gears set up for our local short, technical track (SOW), with around a 110mph top speed and spacing that makes it possible to always stay between 5000-7000 rpm's. So, long freeway cruises are out, unless you like zinging along at 5000 rpm's all day just to keep up with traffic. It's a compromise. (Of course the compromise can be largely negated by having multiple gearboxes...I kept my stock one too.) |
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