D*MN -- found the hardest bolt to loosen on a porsche

[tmctguer]

i'm trying to change out my starter on my '89 911, and the top 10mm nut on the starter is the toughest one i've ever tried to loosen.

i've got the tranny dropped about 6 - 8 inches supported by a jack. i can get to it with a variety of extensions, but i can't get enough space to get a good pull on my wrench.

any suggestions? drop the tranny a bit more?

[Series900]

You can do it, I think one of the hardest is the devil bolt on MFI pump.

[Ned nyna 11]

I chopped a 2 inch length of 10 mm allen and used a 10 mm wrench on the hex. I got it from the starter side, but you might check to see if the other side gives better access. Be sure to clean out the socket to get max insertion of the hex. You will need a heavy glove to protect your hand. The farther you drop the tranny end the more room you will have.
Ned Monaghan

[Jim Smolka]

Assuming the fastner in question is the one on top of the starter and that a nut has been used instead of the hex allen nut, then you can use a socket with a wobble type extenstion. I think pelican sells this tool or it is available from Sears. Hopefully, if a nut has been used, then it is a 10mm nut with a 15mm hex (special order). Otherwise, it most likely is a 10mm nut with a 17mm hex (local nut and bolt house).

[Wayne 962]

Hmm, the top nut should be a hex nut similar to the head stud bolts. I have used multiple extensions to get just the right length so that you can let your breaker bar hang down between the starter and the chassis. It takes a good set of extensions, and a bit of trial and error to get it right - no way can you do this with an allen-key type wrench.

I know this isn't a 914, but on the 914, one of these bolts is actually recessed into the housing of the starter. Since you can't see it - you can't see this fact. You can sometimes get a wrench on it, but you can't turn it - there is a nut on the other side inside of the engine compartment that you need to undo instead of the bolt. Of course the one on the side that you *can* see is not recessed, so you need two people to remove it (one to hold the wrench inside the engine compartment and one to undo the bolt underneath the car).

It's amazing at how poorly some of these cars are designed from a manufacturing perspective. Light years behind my "snap-together" Nissan Pathfinder.

-Wayne

[yelcab1]

Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts


It's amazing at how poorly some of these cars are designed from a manufacturing perspective. Light years behind my "snap-together" Nissan Pathfinder.

-Wayne

Wow, I guess only the chat board owner has the right to bad-mouth Porsche without getting the 3rd degree by the Porschephiles.

I had an 84 which is a bit easier. But I did have to use a 10mm hex socket with a round end so that it wobbles inside the socket. That did the trick.

[tmctguer]

well, i finally broke the darn thing loose. the way i did it was with a 10 mm allen wrench (the one i loosened the bottom nut with). however, i had to lower the transmission about 8", remove the passenger side rear tire, and pull like a wild gorilla on the allen wrench until it budged just a bit. i got the rest with a long extension.

i'd like to meet the guy on the assembly line who put this nut on........

now, i'm off to order the new starter from our host. (gotta help pay for that new server) !!

thanks for the replies. hope someone searches and finds our ideas someday.

[ubiquity0]

The guy that put that nut on in the assembly line is still in your car! They built it around him

[Tyson Schmidt]

Originally posted by Series900
You can do it, I think one of the hardest is the devil bolt on MFI pump.

The "devil-bolt" on the MFI pump (it's actually a 13mm nut) is actually really easy to get to if you remove the left side velocity stacks. Leave the throttle bodies on the engine, and just remove the six 10mm nuts that hold the velocity stacks onto the throttle bodies. Then the MFI pump is a piece of cake to remove!

[Wayne 962]

Originally posted by tmctguer
i'd like to meet the guy on the assembly line who put this nut on........

Most likely all the drivetrain components were installed out of the car and then the entire assembly was installed up into the car. This is a fundamental problem with many cars - they weren't really designed to be worked on. Try the Boxster on for size...

-Wayne

[Jim Smolka]

Since it is an hex allen nut, consider using an allen socket with a ball end to secure the fastner

[john70t]

It was easier for me (on an early car) to go over the top of the trans from the drivers side.

[buttjoint]

That was the tool that I offered to bring ya JIM

[Fidalgo911S]

John70t is right. I got underneath the tranny and sort of gave it a big hug to get to the bolt. I used an 8mm hex (early car) socket on a six inch extension. I had the starter out and in the vise for a rebuild in about ten minutes.

[SeaDweller]

I've never understood why any company would install wear items in such a way that they require the removal or maneuvering of major components to service them, and a burly octopus to get to the fasteners.

Drop the transmission to replace the starter?????????????

I must say, Porsche was pretty bad about this....I had a wire come off my oil sensor, and had to use mirrors to see the location, and then snake my arm behind the engine to reattach it by feel. Back and forth with the mirror, hunched over the engine, sheesh.........

And try to replace any of the fan motors.......Ridiculous......

With that said, working on a boat is a whole 'nother can of worms. Talk about ignorant placement of stuff.........

[Series900]

All this makes sense when it goes together when new, the only engine that ever had any forethought to work on, pre 68 VW bus, motor out in 20 minutes. Boats stink.