Anybody using Stonguard????

[Chris79SC]

Just wondering...

As I'm getting my fiberglass RUF replica front bumper repainted this week..Speed chips can make a fiberglass bumper look like crap pretty quickly...

I purchased the pre-cut RUF spoiler protective sheet from Stonguard's website. $100 for the bumper & $30 for the Aero mirrors I purchased.

I figure this is the best I can do of try and keep the fiberglass bumper looking as good as possible for as long as possible.

Anybody using this stuff??? Opinions?

[ted]

I have had the clear guard for over a year on my track/street car.
pro.
It's on all the time, even in the rain.
The clear guard does not nick where paint would have chiped.
With a heat gun it can be removed.
On lighter colors it is not as visable.
Can be formed around detailed areas, head light rings, side mirrors, rocker panels, leading edge of RS flared rear fenders.
Looks better than a black or color matched mask.


con.
Seems to yellow/burn just slightly over time.
If an edge lifts it can atract dirt to the adhesive.
Just trim off the bad/dirty edges.
Some say it may be more visable on darker colors, I havent really noticed this.

Like I said its been great on my track car where I do follow other cars with minimum spacing.

Then again a 2 piece mask on an early 911 looks very retro, the space age clear plastic may not be period correct for some.

[Harlan Chinn]

I had the full 911 kit on the front of my car after a complete restoration repaint. It was applied at Stonegard locally and it has saved my paint on several occasions. The end results depends on the installation, you can barely make it out on my car. Beats the heck out of the flappy fabric ones.

[ZCAT3]

Ditto to Harlan's comments. I have it on all 3 of my cars - it actually makes the paint on my 87 Carrera look better. I installed mine as DIY and it turned out great. Well worth it IMO.

[CarreraS2]

I installed it on the front bumper of my wife's MB around 3 years ago (I used xpel, but it's the same 3M material) and it has been great.

The paint on those cars is so chip prone, for some reason. It has really saved the front end, and it looks as good as the day I put it on.

In the 3 years it has been on, no one has even noticed it.

I installed it myself - it was not particularly easy. It's basically a giant sticker, and you need to make sure nothing gets underneath it, that the edges are all straight, and that there are no air bubbles underneath.

Her car is silver, and it is not very noticeable. It is MOST noticeable on white. Less noticeable on darker colors.

See xpel.com for other info.

[82Euro]

Yup I stoneguarded a 944 of mine before I sold it and it was great. I'll def. do it to the 911 once it's repaint time. It's already got too many chips on the nose to warrant me buying it right yet.

[Panzer909]

Just replaced all of it on my 944. However, it was a bit challenging to apply. Be VERY careful not to get any air bubbles under it (ask me how I know )

Speaking of which, has anyone come up with an effective way to get rid of the air bubbles? I tried the pin trick and even a small wooden paint roller - with no change.

[rdane]

One of the best things on my car...and money well spent. Can't remember how many panels but front bumper, hood and lights, door trim, door latch and back edge, mirrors, rear quarter panels, front and back, rockers. I am sure I forgot something. 13K miles later and only a couple of tiny extra paint chips.

[CHILI]

For those of you who have used it, how does it do on already touched-up areas? does it create a small bubble? I have a few (individual results may vary) chips on the front that I've touched up, but of course even with a very expensive small soft brush there's still "edges." Dang 91 and 57 freeway!

I was considering using this stuff too, but was concerned about the adhesion around these areas.

Brian, thanks for that website. xpel.com. Good prices.

[ZCAT3]

On the air bubbles, the really small ones will actually dissipate on their own over a few days. It is pretty cool - I presume the 3M material must allow some moisture to get through it - much like a clear coat. For larger bubbles, pricking them with a pin while the adhesive is still fresh is the best bet. The key to install is to use lots of soapy water on the material and the car. As long as you keep it wet it will not set up. I have laid entire large pieces in place and removed them and reinstalled them by doing this. You need to work slowly from a corner using a plastic squeegee to remove bubbles and water while keeping the material you haven't set in place wet with soap solution. Having a helper for the big pieces is a good idea.

[CHILI]

Hmm, ok it sounds a lot like doing large vinal stickers. For some reason I thought these had to go on dry, or the soapy water would leave filmy residue which would show because they are clear. I've done some large stickers. Some by myself. I did almost all of these on this car. There's more on it now, but this is the newest pic I have....

[CarreraS2]

Yeah, goes on wet. Would be impossible to do anything better than a horrifying job if you tried it dry!

From what I can tell, all these companies use the same 3M ScotchCal material. Some just charge a lot more than other. xpel is among the lower cost, Stongard seems to be in the upper range.

Some will try to justify the higher cost by saying their patterns or cuts are better. That may or may not be true, and may also depend on the application. I was very happy with the xpel for the MB, both in the pattern and the quality of the cuts.

The stuff is pretty sticky, and pretty thick. As long as your touchups are decent (and it sounds like yours are far better than decent), I don't think you'll have any problems.

[ZCAT3]

I used the www.invinca-shield.com kits - the cut is very good and the prices are reasonable. They have a 20% off discount code they will give you if you ask for it (say you saw it on rennlist). They also give you an instructional videa and a "special" soap they recommend for the soapy solution.

[Harlan Chinn]

Whatever product you decide make sure that it is the same mil thickness as the 3M product that Stonegard uses. The thickness of the material is what protects the paint from impact. Getting a thinner material of course defeats this purpose. Depending on the car, the cut or pattern of the material applied can make or break an application. Less relief cuts = less visibility. 911's are pretty simple in terms of compound curves. The 3M product that Stonegard uses can be waxed and buffed along with the adjacent unprotected paint surface.

[Wil Ferch]

Have had mine for 7-8 years...no problem...no yellowing.
Does get a "touch" yellow at high heat areas. Like the rear rockers behind the rear wheel wells.
Tough to put on...even with the alcohol/ water and or soap drill. Pin pricks will make smallish holes disappear...but you may have to "work" the areas for a few minutes every day for the first 7 ( !) days or so to do a really good job.

Beats the snot out of those ugly mirror bras, too !

---Wil Ferch

[ZCAT3]

Originally posted by Harlan Chinn
Whatever product you decide make sure that it is the same mil thickness as the 3M product that Stonegard uses. The thickness of the material is what protects the paint from impact. Getting a thinner material of course defeats this purpose.

Actually the material they use has been getting thinner over the years as they have improved the strength of the plastic film. I have worked with 3 generations of the 3M material in my various cars. The first generation stuff was very thick. It is quite durable and a bit prone to yellowing (really only noticeable on light colored cars). The main problem with this early thick stuff is the edges are very visible and attract a lot of dirt (due to the heavier/thicker adhesive used with it and the thicker exposed edge).

The second generation was thinner but had the same issues. The current stuff is the thinnest yet and looks the best by far. This stuff does not prevent dents, it is merely to keep rocks from chipping the paint, so thickness is not an issue - just the material's strength. The nice thing with the latest generation of material is that it is almost invisible. I just replaced a first generation hood piece on my 87 911 with a brand new piece and the difference is dramatic. And as Harlan notes, you can clean and polish the clear bra with the same stuff you use for the rest of the car. I prefer using Plexus plastic cleaner though as it also removes light scratches from the 3M material.

[RoninLB]

I bought stoneguard for my headlamps from Pelican Parts..
Stone chips on the glass degrade lighting.....Ron

[Wil Ferch]

Headlamp stongards are at least twice as thick as normal. Don't use regular stongard for headlights or foglights. False security.
--Wil Ferch

[North Coast Cab]

Where can you buy the larger peices for hood etc?

John

[Chris79SC]

I went to the stonguard website and ordered direct...

They have a short hood cover & a cover for the entire hood...


Stonguard