It's ALIVE ! ! ! (long) - really long

[mikes72t]

Well after lurking for a while and posting the occansional technical question please allow me to introduce myself.

Hi I'm Mike.

I bought a 1972 911 TE Targa with a blown Engine about a month ago. The engine had a small fire at the vapor return lines and scorched the engine pad and the plastic air intakes.

Then I bought a used 2.4TE MFI Engine from Doug in Cincinati and spent the last two weeks removing the old engine and installing the "new" one. It was rebuilt a couple of years and 2000 miles ago by someone who then was hit by an unisured motorist. and sold the car to Doug who parted it out and kept the Engine for his 72 coupe. But now has decided to make his 72 into a RS Replica and sold the engine.

Long enough yet?

So I got the new engine installed on Sunday with the help of a couple of local guys I met after I bought the P-car. A guy at work who has been restoring a 65 911 E coupe for the last ten years and two marriages, and another guy who has had a 67 911 and now is storing two 914's awaiting time and money.

Still Going. . .

So the new engine actually started right up on the first try, I was really surprised ( no offense Doug) but I figured something would go wrong as this is the first time I have attempted anything this mechanically in depth.

Anyway it runs now. WAHOO ! ! !

So now for some questions.

I put in 0W40 synthetic and it is leaking, and I am reading on the board that seems to be common so I will switch back to a 15W50 soon.

Also It doesn't like to idle, it dies but so far I can always restart it. I am guessing a timing issue that needs some professional help.

What would the old engine be worth in less than optimal running condition?

How much would the value of the car drop by not having the original engine in it?

Is anyone still reading this far down the message?

How do I post pictures on the board?

Did the 72's have power brakes, the brake pedal is really stiff and I am curious is that is how it is supposed to be.

I assume the smoking after I am down driving hte car is oil leaking out on the heat exchangers, Is there any chance of this oil catching fire fro the heat exchangers?

So far when I am on the highway at 70 mph, the temp is right around 185 and the oil pressure is at about 60. Do these seem right? How accurate are these gauges really? The oil level gauge always readds over full even though I am pretty sure it is not.

Well I am tired of typing for now. Thanks for reading, I am sorry for my poor spelling.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Mike

[Kevin Stewart]

Cool, i just got my 3.6 running so i know the feeling, anyway, did you adjust the valves, or should i ask if the lower valve covers are leaking, do you know if they are turbo valve covers, mobile one is known for finding cracks, try a thicker oil, most of us run 15w50 mobile one, i wouldnt worry about resale if you plan to keep it, i have had this one almost 6 years and still dig it, and check for vacuum leaks, Kevin

[Jack Olsen]

How much would the value of the car drop by not having the original engine in it?

Unless it is a collectible, not significantly. Matching numbers are important in RS's and S's, but not E's or T's, unless they are in phenominally good shape.

Is anyone still reading this far down the message?

Yes. Why do you call your car a 'TE?' In 1972, there were three models: the T, the E and the S.

How do I post pictures on the board?

You click on "attach multiple" while typing up your post, and uplad image files that are less than 100K in size.

Did the 72's have power brakes, the brake pedal is really stiff and I am curious is that is how it is supposed to be.

The 72's did not have power-assist brakes. A properly-functioning system will require more pedal pressure than modern cars, but you should still be able to lock up the wheels quickly and easily. When were your master cylinder, brake lines and calipers last serviced?

I assume the smoking after I am done driving the car is oil leaking out on the heat exchangers, Is there any chance of this oil catching fire fro the heat exchangers?

Yes, that's probably the source of it, and no, it will probably not catch fire.

So far when I am on the highway at 70 mph, the temp is right around 185 and the oil pressure is at about 60. Do these seem right? How accurate are these gauges really?

Those sound good. You'll generally see about 10 pound of pressure for every thousand rpms.

The oil level gauge always reads over full even though I am pretty sure it is not.

Don't trust the dash gauge. To check the oil, you need the car up to operating temperature (meaning you've been driving it for 15 minutes or so). It should be idling, on a level surface. You should only fill it to a point midway between the two marks on the dipstick.

It's a common newbie mistake to overfill it, producing a mosquito-fogging-like effect as oil gets sucked up into the airbox and makes a mess.

[Kevin Stewart]

how much oil did you put in, Kevin

[jpnovak]

In 72, the TE was the MFI version of the T. Euro cars were still available with carbs as the standard T.

[Tim Walsh]

actually the euro version was called the TK to T carbs (in german)

[304065]

I thought the word for carbs was Vergaser? I don't disagree that TK is right, though.

[MFAFF]

I thought TE were only 73.5 cars.....with an early Jetronic system.....

or did California get injection before in 72?

[Early_S_Man]

For '72 only two 2.4T engines were available ... TE [E for Einspritzer] was the USA MFI engine, and TV [V for Vergaser] was the ROW carbureted engine.

The '73.5 911T USA models got the TK [K for K-Jetronic] CIS 2.4 engine.

Stiff brake pedals could indicate a problem with worn rear seal on the master cylinder, and swollen pedal bushings which have reacted to the brake fluid! Check to see if the brake fluid reservoir is low in one circuit ... when pitting of the master cylinder occurs due to water/moisture-contaminated brake fluid, the rear cup and seal are often ruined, and the master cylinder typically needs to be replaced.

[Matt Smith]

Ditto Warren

The brakes on my TE are really nice; the pedal pressure is not noticably stiffer than my 'moderns', but they definately pull up well when you want them to.

Speaking of engines, I'm contemplating doing a swap (but retaining my original motor) with a 2.7 RS spec MFI motor, including exchangers and exhaust that a local enthusiast has here for sale at around $2500 US.
I figure that original engines ARE important, even in T's and E's, especially if the rest of the car is original. The idea behind the potential swap for me would be to mothball the original mill and put some fun miles on the 2.7 in the meantime.
whadayathink?

[Rot 911]

I would recommend 20w50 dino oil.

[Jack Olsen]

TE, huh? Well, you learn something new every day. I guess I've got a TE, too.

In all the responses, we've forgotten to welcome you to the board, Mike. Good to see another early car resurfacing.

[Tyson Schmidt]

Jack, it's an internal designation. If you read the Factory Workshop manual or the Factory spec books, they always refer to the models in this way.

[mikes72t]

TE is what the Porsche Cert. of Authenticity called it so I figure they know what they are talking about.

The "new" motor does have turbe valve covers but I have not adjusted the valves, that is one of the many winter projects planned.

I also plan on switching to a thicker oil but havne't deceided between dino 20W 50 and Mobil 1 15W50. I know there are other threads that I will follow for this.

Thanks

Mike

[Fishcop]

Welcome Mike

You probably should have done your valves when you had the engine out as it is much easier at that time.

Cheers

[power]

I would check brake flex hoses if your brake pedal feels strange? The O.E.M hoses have a tendancy to "swell up" on the inside as they deteriorate allowing pressure in lines to build but not release. This had the effect on my car of a "Hard" feeling brake pedal until I replaced them. When I cut the old hoses to look inside sure enough they were swollen almost shut, hard to detect from the outside.