Screw extractor help needed
 

After giving up on my stripped transmission fill plug I bought this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1068711061.jpg

It says to use a 17/32" drill bit. The hardware store I bought it at did not have a 17/32" drill bit. They weren't out. They didn't carry them!

I went to a couple more hardware stores + Sears, and no 17/32" bits. I did find one at an auto parts store that said it was good for soft metals. I don't think that will do the job. Anyone have any suggestions on where to get a good 17/32" drill bit (either in Orange county, CA or online). I already tried Pelican of course. :)

Home Depot or Lowes? You might wanna try www.Grainger.com they should have that bit.
Rick

A Bit hard to find.....
 

I believe you will find that a 9/16 bit would work just as well if not better. Measure the diameter of the extractor to see how deep a 17/64" diameter hole would allow the extractor to set and then measure a 9/16" hole the same way. With this type of extractor, you REALLY want it to go as far into the hole as possible. That way, when you put lots of torque on it, maybe, just maybe it will not break off in the hole.

Good Luck!

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe

I have never had any luck with screw extractors. They really don't work. I don't know what is wrong with your plug but here is what I might try. Weld on a bolt to the drain plug and use heat on the tranny then back the plug out.

There have been quite a few threads on proven methods to remove the fill plug. If you drill it out, how are you going to get the filings out of the transmission?

A friend once told me "a screw extractor is a tool for replacing a hard to drill out bolt with an impossible to drill out screw extractor". Of course I had to learn that for myself...
-Chris

The only extractors I will use are the Snap-On ones. Mercifully the set is only like $30. But I would also agree with the above, that in this case I would try to avoid drilling the plug. When I do decide to try using an extractor, I use a REVERSE drill bit. Often, the drill bit removes the screw. And I take my time. I have had them break off, particularly the "arrowhead" ones like pictured above, and that's when problems REALLY begin.

Yeah the screw extractor set I bought from sears was a total waste of money. It hasn't managed to get out stripped screws from my kitchen cabinets, the 911, or anything else I've used them on. Worthless. They'll get out a screw that is stripped and not stuck, but if its not stuck, how did it get stripped?

that is exactly what I would do, weld on a large nut and use the heat generated from the welding to crack the sucker loose!

As far as a drill, try McFadend-Dale hardware in Santa Ana, off the 55 and edinger, IIRC. They have EVERYTHING!

Chris

If you have about 3/8" of the plug sticking out, go to Sears and buy a large clench wrench (sort of like a basin wrench, and you may be able to use the clench wrench to get the plug out. You will destroy the plug. At least that's how I got mine out.

I've never welded anything beyond copper pipes. What kind of torch will I use to do this?

13 or 14 mm drill bit might also work. Before you buy any large bit make sure it will fit into your drill. Most drills won't accept a bit larger than 1/2 inch.

7/32" =.531 It is a standard clearance drill for 1/2" bolts. I wouldn't worry to much about the .03 on a hole for the extractor, especially if you are going to do this with a hand drill. You will likely wobble around more than enough to give you the .030 so a 1/2" drill should be fine.

I thought the fluted extractors like the above-pictured one were the better kind? Aren't the kind like these

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1068753920.jpg

the ones that break more often?

Either way, the extractors are not all that reliable. I like Chris Bennet's description.............:D

www.mcmaster.com has that drill bit.

17/32" is big! Looks like about $10.

I'd go with the nut welding idea first though. That hand drilling can get ugly in a hurry. A good local repair shop should be able to help you out with the nut welding? Many of those corner garage kinda guys are pretty "resourceful" and knowledgable since they've seen so many different makes of cars.

You'd likely use a Mig welder to weld a nut on. Any local mebers with a portable unit?

You could also use a oxy/Acet or TIG setup as well.