Loren ....the chip just flat works....no ifs ands or butts....

It sure does!
 

Ditto!

Loren...I have read just about every post that you have made regarding performance chips. My first observation was that you must have an issue with Steve W's work. Further review revealed that you gave NBD chips equal negative time...dyno charts and all. You will never be accused of lacking passion for your cause. Its just not clear what your true intentions are because you often include the systemsc website for reference.

As I've said many times, simple things (which most chips REALLY do)
can increase performance without wasting money on performance chips:

1. disconnect the O2 sensor (better throttle response)
2. set the internal switch to position 2 (a little richer like a map change)
3. re-adjust the air flow meter (provides better throttle response)
4. leave pin 10 open to the DME (advances the timing)
5. leave pin 28 open and/or disconnect the altitude sensor (a little richer
if sensor is bad)

If you like to waste money for simple mods you can do yourself, just
do it. Whatever makes you guys happy. Isn't that what it's all about.

Still haven't seen GOOD before and after dyno runs, i.e. ones that
aren't mixed with other mods (ss exhaust etc.).

Also guys, there's no need to attack me. I'm just raising issues.
I have nothing to gain or lose with regard to performance chips.

Have Fun
Loren
'88 3.2

Go here for cool graphs...

http://www.systemsc.com/graphs.htm

I guess you didn't read my previous post. Pin 10 is already disconnected on every cars except California cars. And richening the mixture everywhere does not increase power everywhere. You will increase low end part throttle response, but you will loose overall hp and have a fuel mileage decline. Think I'm full of it?

The first run is with a stock U.S. Carrera 3.2 with a catalytic converter and stock chip. It develops a baseline rwhp of 164.5. The next run, same day, same dyno, is taken with only the fuel increased by 5% throughout, just as your advice with the internal switch to position 2 with a 6.3% fuel increase. You will see a net decline to 153.0 rwhp. Do the math, overlay the graphs, whatever. Here's my hard numbers on a 3.2 Carrera, not theory, where are yours?

Stock baseline 89 U.S. Carrera 3.2 (stock chip)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1069279343.gif

Stock baseline 89 U.S. Carrera 3.2 (fuel only increased by 5%)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1069279397.gif

-M. Thanks for the pics. Helps alot.

I can clear up a portion of this debate here quickly. Regardless of whether the "California brown wire" is attached or connected (I have switched back and forth since installing Steve W's chip), the chip is a big improvement in low end power and torque.

My 1987 Carrera 3.2 with no other mods is definitely quicker than it was before the chip install. The wire has NO affect on performance that I can actually feel. The chip, however, is a big improvement.

Mike

Ditto. I'm in CA and I currently have the wires connected. I definitely feel the difference with the chip.

My Seat-of-the-pants Dyno can't tell if there is a performance increase without the cable connected.

I suppose I could do all those little mods to possibly get similiar performance, but why...I can get the chip, and if I want I can easily pop it out when it comes to smog time (if ever needed even).

I have to chime in with a positive vote for Steve's chip [or in my case 3 chips]. Not only did he stick with me to get the chip firmware to where my car wouldn't predetonate on the lousy fuel here in Arizona, but he must have spent at least three hrs on the phone with me getting there. The whole while he spent getting the chip right, he made it clear that if it didn't work out for me in the end, he'd just refund my money. What the heck more could one ask for . . .

The old [stock] chip feels 'slumpy' to me compared to Steve's chip. The car is not as much fun to drive with the stock chip. This is most noticeable in the <4k rpm area [at least for me]. That's probably because I just don't get too many opportunities to open it up so to speak.

My only other engine mods are cone filter and Magnecor plug wires [it that can be considered a mod].

todd
86 cpe

You all ought to feel the difference the chip made for my '89 US spec with SSIs . . . . OH MY GOD when the tach hits 4k you better be holding on with both hands. The improvement in quickness equaled changing from stock exhaust to SSIs . . . .

Can't wait to throw the 45s on the rear . . . . that should really rachet things up a notch.

Steve rules . . . . nuff said.

A big ditto on that! Glad I have big wheels on my car...

Im confused. I have an 86 Aus delivered car with . It has a cat, and runs on unleaded fuel. The manual states 207hp (152kw). The two brown wires are present and appear to be connected.

Is there any benfit/harm in unpluging these, epsecially considering now, unlike in the 80s, the car is running on 98ron premium unleaded fuel?

stuart

Have any of the California guys in this thread had their car smogged since installing the chip? If so, any problems?

As per the first page of this thread, CA, Japan and Australia seem to have these cables connected.

Best thing is to disconnect the wires and see if you feel any negative effects. Only negative thing I can think of is you might *might* get some extra smoke from the exhaust, but probably not.

With the octane of fuel you're using, you should not have problems. SteveW would know best though.

With people still asking questions about the brown wires, it
appears that few read the previous posts.

The functions, as I described, are as follows:

1. Pin 10 brown wire when connected retards the timing
to reduce NOX and/or pingng for lower octane fuels.
In California and Japan it is connected for NOX reduction
which increases with timing advances, e.g. performance
chips advance timing.

2. Pin 28 brown wire when connected bypasses the altitude
sensor to lean the mixture (alt. sensor shorts 28 to grd
at high alt. to lean mixture)

Your chip suppliers should provide this info and not just
the tables that Porsche provides for each country. These
jumper connections WILL affect how ALL chips perform,
unless the chip supplier has eliminated the function in the chip.

Have Fun
Loren

Howdy,

I'm new to the Carerra world since my recent purchase of my 87.
I live in NY, but the car I just purchased was up until my purchase a California car. I've read everything about the little brown wires and am soliciting help on this:

1.) Should I remove or disconnect the wires. If so do I stand to gain anything by doing it? or should I leave it alone?

2.) If I wanted to do this on my own, How? this may seem basic but I would love some instruction on how to - maybe even pictures?

regards

B

Only partially true. Depending on specific versions of the DMEs and chip that is in it, the combination of pin 10 and the use of Porsche p/n 911.612.421.00, which is a resistor network that goes in between pin 28 and the altitude sensor, (which by the way is always open below an altitude of 1000 meters) determines the region coding. Within certain chips, contains several fuel and ignition maps for the U.S. 930/25, the European 930/20 motor, the European 207 hp 930/21 configuration (a 930/20 variation with a cat and detuned chip for 91 ROZ octane), and the Swiss/Swedish 231 hp 930/20 motor with an air pump. This is the basis for a new European triple map chip that allow a user to implement an O2 sensor, or revert back to the stock 231 hp 930/20 mapping if he so chooses. It's confusing enough for everyone to supply this information, with all the years and variations out there. That's why each chip is preset for each owner's configuration and country.

For everyone with 930/25 U.S. spec cars, Loren is correct in this regard in that disconnecting pin 10 will improve performance to a small degree on some cars. So Stuart, Bruno, you should all be safe in disconnecting them and trying it out. However, playing with and disconnecting pin 28 will do nothing for your car unless you live in Denver where the oxygen is 18% thinner, and the only time the altimeter switch closes. By default it is an open circuit.

And guys, thank's again for your vote of confidence. SmileWavy

Edit: Scott asked about passing smog. I didn't specifically program these chips to pass smog, nor were they tested or approved by any governmental agency. So 'for off road use only'. If you need to smog your car, I recommend you swap back to the stock chip just to be sure. Having said that, there are several guys passing smog without problem. Buttjoint reported that he just passed the California 15 and 25 mph rolling dyno test recently here without problem:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/135777-stevew-equipped-carrera.html

So, if my '87 was originally from New York there's no brown wires to disconnect? Is there a performance difference between 24 and 28 pin DME's? My 24 pin DME developed an intermitent no-run condition so I replaced it with a new 28 pin (the only new version available) DME from Atlanta. It feels like I lost a little bit in the mid range. I'm a little skeptical about having someone repair the old DME, is there someone competent out there?

Inspired by beer and this whole brown wire thing, I excitedly ran out to the shed, grabbed a garage light and investigated under the seat.

Someone (PO) beat me to it. The brown wires where already disconnected and the white socket and plug where neatly taped to the black insulator.

I have reconnected them and am hoping for dramatic results tomorrow morning as the wife forbade me from starting my car and waking/scaring the kid.

StuartJ, maybe this explains the 3/10seconds you beat me by at Winton?

Stay tuned....

Loren and Steve

Thank you both for your considered answers. I did read the whole thread, my confusion stemmed form the variuos quoted hps and configs. Thanks again, very much.

Victor

When will you understand? It doesnt matter how fast you go, I will always go 3/10s faster.


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