CV Joint Bolt

[North Coast Cab]

It appears one of my worst fears has come true. One of the bolts holding the CV joint would not break looses and the head has stripped. I cleaned and prepped as best I could do but one bolt never had a chance. For the record, the bolts were 6mm allen head so they had obviously been replaced before. Are there any options other than grinding off? The bolt is on the tranny side. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

John

[don911]

John,
Can you get a vice grip on it? I had the same happen to me and was able to get it off using a vice grip.
Good luck.

[North Coast Cab]

I can get one on it. I think I'll soak with PB Blaster until morning and give it a try. I really hate to have to grind it off.

John

[Shuie]

I have never tried this on a CV bolt, but it has worked for me in some other places. I dont know if this is a bad idea or not, its just a thought.

Hammer a socket onto the bolt and remove it with your socket wrench.

[yelcab1]

Weld a nut on it.

[Shawn Goodwin]

drill it off

[Doug E]

Having just gone through this today as part of my engine drop I feel your pain. Fortunately none of mine stripped but I have to admit it was in the back of my mind. I'd try the vise grip approach - hope it works out for you.

[911pcars]

I concur w/Shawn. Drill the head(s) off. You'll need a large enough, sharp enough drill bit and enough torque. After removing the CV joint, you should now have enough exposed fastener to grab with some visegrips or merely rotate with your fingers to remove (excising the bolt head removes tension). Once upon a time, I used this same technique on some flywheel bolts lacking the proper removal socket.

Replace with quality replacement bolts and antiseize. Pre-drill the bolt heads and safety wire if you want add'l piece of mind.

Sherwood
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

[North Coast Cab]

I got it with the vice grip. Other side bolts came off with out any problems. Now to clean, inspect and repack. For what it's worth, I forgot about the welded bolt option. I did that with my tranny drain plug and it worked like a charm, certainly much easier than grinding or drilling.

John

[Early_S_Man]

John,

Allen bolts have been used by the factory on most CV-joint bolts since the 1968 models ...

I have never seen anything but Allen bolts for the M10 (four-bolt) CV's used for '69 - '75 models!

[North Coast Cab]

Mine's an '84 and had 6 allen head bolts. Anyway, I failed to buy the appropriate gaskets and seem to have some questions as to how many and where. There was a gasket between the boot flange and the cv joint and I think there was one between the cv joint and the wheel/tranny but not sure. Can you clarify. Also Warren, I referred to your earlier post and picture many times and appreciated the help. Finally, I ordered new bolts and washers from Pelican per their on-line ordering guide. I received the exact same bolts I removed along with some standard lock washers. My axles did not use washers. Should I use the lock washers, go without any, or buy some of the aforementioned "schnor" washers?

Thanks, John

[Randy Webb]

BTW, always clean the internal hoels out with a srewdriver or probe before using the allen wrench

[Decolliber]

Use a dremel to cut a level edge on each side of the head and then twist off with spanner. Worked for me.

[Randy Webb]

Spanners in Iowa?? I thought they only had wrenches there. The coat of arms must mean a British import with a German car... Is Solon near a univ.?

[Decolliber]

Originally posted by Randy Webb
Spanners in Iowa?? I thought they only had wrenches there. The coat of arms must mean a British import with a German car... Is Solon near a univ.?

Quite right about spanners. I was experiencing a temporary Commonwealth flashback. And yes, Solon is about 13 miles northeast of University of Iowa, Hawkeyes, etc., etc. Very important to keep the P-car off the roads on football game days - many drunken tailgaters, exhuberant fans ...

[Randy Webb]

Yes -- as you've no doubt noticed they are very excited about those little brown oblong things. Unlike true football, they even like to hold them in their hands.

[North Coast Cab]

So do I use the lock washers, no washers (as removed) or go to a schnorr washer?

John

[Jim Smolka]

To remove a stripped allen bolt. Simply use the fire wrench to heat the bolt at the end (the part connected to the drive flange), then use a chisel and hammer to make a grove on the head of the bolt. Hammer as to turn the bolt. Works great.

[Zeke]

John, I don't have the definate answer as all my experience is with older cars, but I would use the serated washers instead of the lock washers. If you agree with me, it's my understanding the the cup goes down from the bolt head and you use them only once. I recycle them to body parts after that. My cars use the gasket between the CV and the flange on both ends, but then again, at some point, the gasket was eliminated.

[kepperly]

I just removed the half shafts from my 87 carerra Thrusday and had
one that just would not come out. Rounded off the hex and had to get out the cut off wheel. Cut the head off and took the stud out with my fingures. Trick to get the inner stub axel bolts out pull the wheels and get a long extension and an impact wrench with an impact duty head socket to loosen them . I replaced the rear wheel bearings at the same time with a home made tool that is
now for sale or rent to any pelican members.

Keith Epperly

Wichita PCA membership chairman