Cab power roof manual release

Chris Lovell · 11-01-2003, 04:15 PM

My '88 cab roof is balking opening and closing. Sometimes hanging up on release, sometimes failing to corner lock on closing. I am wondering how to manually release the roof when the power is not working. The original owners manual refers to backing off some lugs to unlatch the top manually. My challenge is to get through the surface caps. How do these covers work? (see pic) What do the arrow and instructions tell me? This should be so obvious and I feel like an idiot. (So don't totally smoke me on this, okay)
Thanks. Chris

'89cab · '89cab's Garage

Use a long skinny flat blade screwdriver through each hole to manually close your top. Shine a flashlight through the opening and you can barely make out the device that you will turn with the screwdriver. The owners manual gives a brief explanation of how to do it. Takes many revolutions to close. Move back and forth between the two.
Scared the heck out of me the first time my top wouldn't close (many miles from home). I now gently help my top back down by pulling on the middle of the flat piece on top of the bar you've posted a picture of.
I think mine balks when it is cool and/or top has been down for a few hours.
Good luck.

Chris Lovell · 11-02-2003, 08:36 PM

Thanks. Sounds like this power roof setup is finicky. When you power the top "up", do hold the power until it latches, or do you stop the power up just before "impact" with the receiver on the the top of the windshield. It seems to hit pretty hard and I have been stopping it just short, then easing it in. It might work better if I just power it right in. How do you put up your power roof?

'89cab · '89cab's Garage

I hold the power on all the way. On mine if you hesitate just before contact with the windshield frame, it stops in a never never land where it won't move up or down. That's how I became so proficient with the screwdriver and manual closing. Once closed completely, the whole system works again.
Search for various cab phrases on Pelican. We're not alone and there's good info here.
I'm leaving for week long business trip. email if i can help more.

expat · 11-03-2003, 03:24 AM

Im with 89Cab. - I keep the power on all the way till its completely closed (it hits kinda hard but no damage results)
and then release, and then reapply the power briefly once again to make sure its completely locked, otherwise mine too goes into never never land (LOL on that statement!).

I dont know whether its part of the power top syndrome but since I converted my roof to lock with the engine running but handbrake on, I havent had any problem with the roof locks (knock on wood for me will ya

)

Cheers
Mark

Chris Lovell · 11-03-2003, 11:09 AM

Mark,
A couple more comments...
I do believe the top is very sensitive to power flow. Having your alternator power the top would give the best power and might be very relevant to your prior inconsistency. Also, what mod did you make to allow the roof to deploy with the engine running and e-brake on. That is interesting.

gduke · 11-03-2003, 05:55 PM

Mine does the same thing. Once I had to screw both nuts all the way in to manually close the top. It took for ever. The top does this quite often. Especially when it rains.

expat · 11-03-2003, 08:39 PM

Hi Chris,

Sorry to be brief, I'm a bit busy at the moment. If you do a search (about cab top problems I think) I'm fairly certain I posted the wiring change made to convert it. Was simple - like 15 mins and a few wires from the control module.

If you can't find the info, I will look under the dash and get all the details and email you at the weekend.

Cheers
Mark

Purrybonker · 11-05-2003, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Hi Chris,

Sorry to be brief, I'm a bit busy at the moment. If you do a search (about cab top problems I think) I'm fairly certain I posted the wiring change made to convert it. Was simple - like 15 mins and a few wires from the control module.

If you can't find the info, I will look under the dash and get all the details and email you at the weekend.

Cheers
Mark

Yeah - post the details of this conversion, please! I've had this conversion in mind for a while, but all my searches only show people asking how to do it - never any answers.

Thanks

Ken

expat · 11-05-2003, 06:26 PM

I'll take pics this weekend and post details.

Chris Lovell · 11-07-2003, 02:57 PM

I "discovered" my problem on the right side of the power roof when locking down. The right seems to stretch too far forward and does not settle into the locking mechanism. I suspect there is a cable which needs to tighten a bit more for the roof to settle onto the platform at the top of the windshield and onto the locking plate.
Any thoughts on how to adjust this?

911boost · 911boost's Garage

Chris may the force be with you, and when you figure it out could you please come help me fix mine?

Why doesn't the Bently say ANYTHING about the top? The book says it covers convertibles...

Bill

AFJuvat · 11-08-2003, 06:57 PM

AUF = OFF ZU = ON

Your Cab top transmissions are out of alignment. Normally, this is caused by a worn drive cable on one or both sides - one side moves a little slower than the other until eventually you get to where you are.

Here is how you can fix it: - everything done with the top closed.

1. Remove rear carpet pad and side trim panels in back seat - this will reveal the two transmissions and the two drive motors for the top.

2. Unclip the cables from the drive motors and work the cables out from behind the side carpeting.

3. Unbolt the transmission from the cab top frame - you need a 6mm allen wrench to do this - do not lose the plastic washer from behind the bolt.

4. Unbolt the transmissions from the sidewall of the car. - do not lose the spacers

5. Note the position of the arms on the transmission on the back side of the arm, there is a mark- that mark SHOULD align with the notch on top of the transmission case housing.

6. If not (and it probably doesn't), remove the cable drive from the transmission - 4 screws. With the cable drive released, the arm on the transmission SHOULD move freely - if it is binding, you will need to replace the transmission.

7. Align the mark on the transmission arm with the notch on the housing and then replace the cable drive.

8. mount the transmission to the sidewall, but do not tighten it all the way.

9. reconnect the arm of the transmission to the cab frame - with the motor loose, you can move things around to line it all up

10 tighten the transmission does

11. repeat for the other side.

Hope this helps

AFJuvat

expat · 11-10-2003, 05:11 AM

Havent forgotten to post my pics etc...will do asap.

Actually i did forget to grab the work digital camera on Friday so had to wait until Monday and I forgot again today

expat · 11-20-2003, 02:05 AM

So here are some photos firstly

Please see next post for a description of the wiring mods

expat · 11-20-2003, 02:21 AM

As you look from left to right of the control module as in the pictures above.

1. Locate the Brown/White wire from the first block. (Just for reference, there will be three other wires - Red/White, Red/Blue, Brown). Cut and splice in a new wire of same guage and run to an earthing location. I just found a screw on the footwell to link onto.

2. Locate the Blue/White wire from the second block. (Just for reference, there will be four other wires - Black, Blue, Brown, Yellow). Cut and splice in a wire of same gauge and run to the toggle switch under your dash gauge cluster for the electric roof operation. There will be a blue white wire to cut and splice the other end of your new wire into. The toggle switch will have two other wires coming out of it (or into it, whichever way you look at it.) They will be a Red/Yellow and a Yellow.

Now if you want details on what each wire links to from the start I'll have to go back to my manual where I think I got that info. Not so sure on this as it was a while ago I look into all this. Will update when I find that info.

With the above mods, my roof now opens and closes with the engine running and only the handbrake on which is the same as the 993 I think.

Basically its two wires - an earth and a runner to the toggle from the module, so you wont lose anything if you have to put it back to stock for some reason.

Sorry it took so long to get the information up. I kept forgetting the digital camera and then by the time I got home it was always dark. Left work early tonight to get home, pull the carpet back and take some photos.

Cheers
Mark

Purrybonker · 11-21-2003, 10:06 AM

Thanks Mark.

reesestewww · reesestewww's Garage

These can be found under the dash????

Please see next post for a description of the wiring mods [/B][/QUOTE]

Chris Lovell · 11-21-2003, 04:22 PM

Mark,
First, thanks for this. You've been very generous with your time and your creativity. A request for a bit of clarification...
When you say "Cut and splice in a wire of same gauge and run to the toggle switch under your dash gauge cluster for the electric roof operation. There will be a blue white wire to cut and splice the other end of your new wire into. The toggle switch will have two other wires coming out of it (or into it, whichever way you look at it.) They will be a Red/Yellow and a Yellow." Is this an "in-line" splice the blue-white wire off the toggle switch or do you cut the wire entirely and splice the new wire onto the wire leaving one end unattached.
Thanks.
Chris

wdarner · wdarner's Garage

I undid the mechanicals to circumvent a problem with the power actuation. Wouldn't you know the relays under the passenger floorboard acted up 1 year later. Around $500 in diag/parts/labor to resolve. Give me a manual top with manual latches ANY DAY!