HELP! 930 torque value for rear hub

[alfa11]

Help!,

Can anybody out there tell me what torque value I should use on a 78 930 rear hub nut. I am in the middle of a rear wheel bearing instalation RIGHT NOW @ 12:45 pac time Friday 28th and I realized I dont have my manual with me. I know a SC is 254 foot lbs, but that isnt doing it on my Turbo.

Please somebody look it up for me and post it now.

Thanks for your time, Paul

[troy]

From the Turbo manual: (verbatim)

ADJUSTING REAR WHEEL BEARINGS - The spacer between both rear wheel bearings is designed to be shortened in length permenantly when tightening the castle nut more than a certain torque (normally more than 300 Mn / 217 ft.lbs.)

1. Tighten castle nut to 20 kpm (145 ft. lbs.). Check axial play (specification: more than 5/100 mm). Replace spacer, if length had already been shortened (axial play less than 5/100mm).

Note
Dial gauge holder must be mounted on trailing arm or spring strut.

2. Tighten castle nut to 30 kpm (217 ft. lbs.). Re-check axial play.

3. Continue turning nuts until axial play of 4/100 to 1/100 mm is reached (while turning the torque could rise up to 45 kpm/325 ft. lbs.).

Note
Check play several times while tightening and also observe the cotter pin hole.

4. Insert cotter pin. Loosen nut when nut is offset to cotter pin hole. Tighten nut to specified torque (30 to 32 kpm/217 to 231 ft.lbs.) and then tighten further until nut can be locked.

5. Check axial play. Play must not exceed 5/100 mm. Repeat adjusting procedures from point 3, if play is greater

Note
No axial play can be accepted, if a wheel bearing friction force of max. 1,5 kp (3.2 lbs.) is not exceeded with cotter pin inserted and tightening torque of at least 32 kpm (231 ft. lbs.) (adjustment of axial play and possibly further tightening to next cotter pin hole).

Sorry it took me so long to post this, I had to down a water glass full of Crown Royal with just the thought of someday having to follow these instructions on my own car!

[beepbeep]

Warning! Tightening worn rear bearing until there is no play will eventually snap it's outer race and crack the swayarm = expensive.

Ask me how i know.

[alfa11]

Thanks guys,

I'm guessing Ive got a problem. Bearings were new 2500 mi. (1 year) ago. Seemed OK at that time, now Ive got play. I would guess .015" to .020", i.e. 1/2 mm. Tried re-torqueing to 275 and it didnt help. I may try 325 lbs (as noted in above post) but I need a bigger torque wrench and Im not confidant it will work.

Note: doing rear wheel bearings on a Turbo is a MFer. I have a full machine shop at my disposal and actually made a special tool to draw the bearing cups to there seats in the aluminum arm, it took a fair bit of torque just to do that bit. I heated up the alum arm and froze the bearing cups and they definitely did not fall into place. Also, it is also fairley difficult to remove the old races in the first place without dinging the alum. arm.

I would advise removing arm, remove half shaft and hub, clean with solvent and give to competent repair shop for bearing race swap.

If anybody has a complete right rear Turbo arm for sale let me know.


Thanks to all who responded, Paul