I'm leaking...

JonT · 11-10-2003, 08:22 AM

A bluish fluid from under the driver's side front wheel. I'm assuming its brake fluid--there is a small puddle on garage floor. Are brake lines difficult to replace? I'd like to do a few other mods while in there but have no brake experience and don't want to learn the hard way and test the limits of my 5mph front bumper. I was told to do steel braided brake lines, Hawk pads, and removal of some kind of brake shield to improve airflow will do wonders for SC brakes--would like comments on this please! Thanks

HarryD · 11-10-2003, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JonT
A bluish fluid from under the driver's side front wheel. I'm assuming its brake fluid--there is a small puddle on garage floor. Are brake lines difficult to replace? I'd like to do a few other mods while in there but have no brake experience and don't want to learn the hard way and test the limits of my 5mph front bumper. I was told to do steel braided brake lines, Hawk pads, and removal of some kind of brake shield to improve airflow will do wonders for SC brakes--would like comments on this please! Thanks

Are you sure your lines are leaking or is it the overflow line from the reservior dribbling onto the floor?

As far as steel braided lines, per my sources, they require more PM than the factory rubber lines due to abrasion and flexing causing leaks. Remember, in a race car, they inspect/replace these lines frequently, most of our cars, they get replaced (at best) every ten years whether they need to or not. Unless you are a Hurley, a Vic, or a Michael, chances are you will not see a difference in braking performance from a rubber line.

I'll let others who know more speak to your pad and heat shield issues.

cowtown · 11-10-2003, 08:50 AM

-First you've got to locate the leak. It could be the line, a bad caliper seal, or related to the master cylinder or reservoir. Anything you do will require the system to be bled, and this tends to be one of the trickiest parts of the procedure.

-I don't like the braided steel lines because you can't tell their condition by inspection, and so you must replace them regularly.

-The brake shield is behind the rotor, and I think its function is to try to keep rainwater off the rotor. I removed mine on my Carrera as a first step to combat fade on the track. It did make a bit of difference. I can't imagine this being necessary on a street-only car. Wait...you have a 3.6. Maybe you do need to do this.

Do you have any brake fade? If not, you don't need to do it.

-When doing brakes your first time, I'd have someone check out your work. I don't mean to sound condescending at all here, it's just the thought of what can go wrong.... The first time I did mine a few years ago, I drove over to a shop and had them double check things.

pomaro · 11-10-2003, 10:42 AM

hi,

you said a bluish fluid?

i don't know what kind u.s. brake fluid is, but in europe it is to be water clear.....

first try to classify this fluid.
is that puddle in front of the front wheel, behind it or at the inner side of the wheel?
look for some path, where it could run down.
for example, that could as well be window cleaner fluid from the reservoir located in the left front edge (sometimes the cleaning fluid is blue).... a much less dangerous variation...:-)

greets
pomaro

HarryD · 11-10-2003, 11:10 AM

Hmmm.

Blueish fluid = Windshield washer fluid?

Blueish Fluid = ATE Blue brake fluid?

What color is the fluid in your brake reservior?

scottb · 11-10-2003, 12:31 PM

Blueish fluid = a leaky Smurf?

JonT · 11-10-2003, 12:39 PM

I've got ATE blue fluid and its on the inside of the wheel--its has a somewhat oily feel to it. I don't have any windshield wiper fluid in the reservoir so it must be brake fluid. I'll drive it up on my ramp and take a look later tonight to see if I can spot source of leak. I drove it this weekend and did notice the pedal was quite spongy. I'll ask my mechanic about it too-thanks for the responses.

JonT · 12-05-2003, 11:12 AM

Here was the final tally--OUCH cried my Visa. I need to learn how to do this myself.

Mintex pads-119
1 used caliper-80
caliper kit-38
ss brake lines-127
ate blue fluid-12
labor on replacing brake lines 4 hrs-280
labor on caliper rebuild-105

total w/tax 767

Have not been able to set the pads yet so I can't feel any difference in braking yet--at least it stops now. Glad to have her back home in the garage.

cowtown · 12-05-2003, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JonT
labor on replacing brake lines 4 hrs-280
labor on caliper rebuild-105

That's some serious labor time they charged you.

JonT · 12-05-2003, 11:28 AM

I know--does it look out of line? I have no idea what it takes to do this type of work at $70/hr

Neilk · 12-05-2003, 11:32 AM

Uhhhh, if they are going to charge you for a brake rebuild, why did you need a used caliper? You already had a used caliper that needed rebuilding. Was there something wrong with your caliper that it required replacing? Doesn't Pelican sell SS lines for about $65?

Would have made a nice weekend project if you could avoid the dreaded projectus bloatitis.

cowtown · 12-05-2003, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JonT
I know--does it look out of line? I have no idea what it takes to do this type of work at $70/hr

I don't know if it's out of line or not.... It's longer than it took me to replace my lines with OEM rubber lines, by about an hour, including bleeding the system.

BUT...I don't have to cover my rent by working on the car, so maybe it's an acceptable shop rate. A guy's gotta eat.

Maybe someone who has more experience with shops will know.

I also wondered about replacing the caliper...why? Was it damaged?