Corey, what size wheels do you have? I have 15". I am in the process of redoing my suspension & want to lower my car as well, but I doubt I will be able to get the same look as Randy without raising my spindles & monoball bump steer kit. I'm not willing to part with my 15" wheels because I like the gearing. Good luck.

Randy, I have had my work done by Byron and though they are good are pretty $$$ I know it is best to balance tires/wheels with weights on both sides on Byron's insistence but they weren't going to do that with my newly polished wheels. They do know their stuff. Stop by G2 in Interbay sometime, Chris and Joe there are great guys to work with.
They just mounted and balanced my 7 and 9's. They'll sometimes let you drive their sports car while your car is on the rack.

shrup, my fronts are 205/55r16 and the backs are 225/50r16 so mine are 16s sorry it took so long to get back to you
corey

corey,

heres how you lower the front.

jack up front.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625400.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625427.jpg

remove cover - this will expose the fuel pump, and steering rack.

two 17mm nuts, and two 8mm allen bolts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625464.jpg

remove ride height adjust screws completely (if you are removing t bar you will need to push roll bar out of the way for clearance)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625623.jpg

then end caps will slide off t bars.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625659.jpg

leaves you with t bar exposed - i swapped mine at this point. here i have the jack under the wish bone to lift the wheel before i put on the end cap.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625714.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072625733.jpg

once you have removed end caps jack up lower wishbone to raise the wheels (one at a time). i then sighted along from the front of the car and aligned the centre of the wheel with the line along the bottom of the door - that achieved a height of around 24" with 22mm bars.

then replace end caps on bars leaving ample adjustment up and down. replace screws. lower wishbone off jack.

and thats it. repeat until you get desired height, and then replace roll bar mounts and cover sheet metal (it will help get this bolted up if you use a jack to lift roll bar (one end) slightly).

good luck.

Corey, make sure you have at least $200-$300 to spare before you tear into this, you'll want an alignment and corner balance as soon as you're done, otherwise you'll be asking us about new tires. Get 101 projects, it covers lowering, as well as 100 other things to get you into trouble and take away your money.

the result. slightly lower than i wanted at 23.25" and 24". i'm gonna see how much adjustment i have in the rear tomorrow and try and get near 24" in the rear.

that is of course true about the alignment. any changes you make to ride height will affect the settings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072626339.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072626382.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1072626395.jpg

wow that looks good. i am going to go get the book tonight. your cer is real nice.

Corey: just remember "opps" is very expensive. Don't jump into things without knowing what you are doing.

well dickster, i have my book i have been reading it here and there but i do need one thing. in the book it said to let the A-arms to hang as far down as possible. (for stock ride) now you tell me from the bottem of the door. ok i get lost here
the rest i get
thanx

Dickster, what color is your car? Some sort of green-black? It looks gorgeous. Especially without the rockers.

Just to contribute to this thread, we've been having a rather spirited and interesting discussion on roll centers, related to this topic on the racing board.

Thought this might also be of interest to some of you!



Cheers and goodnight!


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-autocross-track-racing/141194-raising-bilstein-spindles.html

impending disaster

corey,

its guess work as to what position you have the A arms in before replacing the end cap. i fitted 22mm bars, and used the door bottom as a guide. fit end cap in middle of adjustment range.

it worked for me and i now have the 24.5" ride height that i wanted.

jyl,

thanks. its moss green - it can look almost black in some light. the rockerless look is growing on me.

If you leave the A-arm at it's lowest point you will get monster truck ride height. That bit wasn't too clear in the book. I jacked the wheel up to approximately the height I wanted it to be (compared to the fender top) and used the adjustment screw to even it up.

ok thanx, i see now. i was a little lost. next for a guy that does not do any racing at all, and just get my car out on nice days. do i need to go to the 22mm bars. i do not want it to bottom out
thanx
p.s. dickster did you have to role your fenders?

well well well,i am sitting at 24 1/8" on both sides with me in it and with me out the right side is 241/8 and left is 243/8. dickster thanx a lot it was so easy to do it took me and a friend about 2.5 hours to do. and for all you great(Prezidential Member) that think it is bad to do i will have so pic's for you later.
thanx to all the back is next

here is my website the pic's are on!!!!!!!!

www.cardomain.com/id/corey79sc

so dickster what do you think??????????

Corey, have you road tested the car to make sure you have clearance in turns and over bumps?

I don't know what Richard thinks but I think your car is waaaaaaay too clean! ;)
The profile of your car now looks similar to mine. I've got to lower the rear aswell. Will get around to it one day.

corey

sorry missed your post.

excellent. the car looks great, but i have to agree - its way too clean!

at around 24.5" you should be ok for clearance - no, i did not have to roll fenders.

use toms calculator for the back and you'll be ok. you will have to check alignment, front and rear - some of which is fairly easy ie front toe. let me know if you need more info.

good luck.

btw - looks like you got a nice garage too.

por_sha911, yes i have tested it around my house it did ok. is your lower bumper valance were your fog lights are is that stock???? i like the look of the inset......

Chris Streit referred to the roll center discussion in another thread. It related to this discussion only in that ride height was a common element. However, let me point out a few things:

1. Ride height is not measured accurately from the fender to the ground. There will be considerable variation from one chassis to another, making comparison meaningless.

2. Guaranteed, your handling performance will go to crap if you lower to the point where the a-arms are above level with the ground. You may not bottom out the tub or scrape your front spoiler, but you will bottom out the suspension. A spring rate that goes to infinity is not a positive from a performance standpoint.

3. IMHO even if you do not want to go to the appearance of the high-schooler-around-the-corner's Honda Civic, lowering the car to meet a purely aesthetic objective has no more merit than the logic used by the rice crowd. Lowering a 911 is a lot more complicated than turning the adjustment bolts. There is much more to consider once you go beyond very minor adjustments.

The proper way to lower the front end of your 911, when you are getting to the ride heights that have been talked about in this thread, would be to raise your spindles. That way, you can go lower with proper suspension geometry.

Read the thread to which Chris referred and then you'll know why you want the car lower.

Glasgow 911SC, is it your car that has the flowmaster on it????

Mine's a single in out Flowie.

jrp

what series flowmaster do you have on your and does it sound like his... wow

The clip on my website was stolen from Mark Wilson. Great sound isn't it? One day.....

Coery: Stock bumper and Chin Spoiler underneath (should be accompanied by whale tail on rear for proper aerodynamics and handling).

Hello Gunter. I have a '67S and as you would know, it's a SWB car. Currently the rear is set about 1/2" higher than the front. Is it a good thing for SWB cars? I'm thinking so since they have 'more' weight in the rear and the nose stooping down a bit more will push the balance forward, ya?

Would like opinions. Thanks.

Sprint.

joe, i have a back tail it is the (3.8 gtp performance wing) i do not know if just a chin spoiler will do it or not. this is why i have never put it on.

Didn't feel like cutting the valance panel, P/N 52580 (Roush Mustang application - closest thing to a Ford I'll ever own again mind you) Single in, single out crossflow.

Also have a Euro Premuff on there. Sounds good and it doesn't have obnoxious drone when cruising, I can still have a conversation in the car. From what I gather the 2 out version (Which is for 82-92 Camaro V-8 BTW) is pretty damn loud when you put it with a cat bypass. Having LOTS of experience with multiple Flowmasters I'm not surprised this is the case.

Onward, it's a nice, more mechanical sound at idle, definitely louder than stock. It's not a deep, domestic rumble like one may think, but when you hammer it and run the revs up it shrieks - someone said it's a lot like the early RS / RSR sound, I love it.

do you have any pic or sound bites of it that i could get??????

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/101890-flowmaster-my-turn-pics.html

no sound clips though. The way I see it, it's either this muffler or spend $500+ for something "legitimately" Porsche. Most here consider Flowmasters an excellent bargain....

rjp

randy i am looking on the flowmaster site and it does not come up as a Roush Mustangat all. it is a 80 Series (Same Side Offsets) 2.50" Offset Input / Offset Output it is 139.99 is that it?

Sounds about right, but if you search the previous threads, the Flowmaster part number is listed. I have it on mine with a Euro premuff, and like the sound immensly-just be aware that it will make you more obvious to everyone, including John Law, when you pounce on it.

and it has 1 input and 2 out puts. i do not see that working

i thought i was looking for a same side in and out. try the flow master web site with the #52580 and see if that is it. i hope mine will sound good with a cat bypass on it

52580 is it. Probably doesn't list it on the site since it's such a weird piece. Aren't many needs for a same side in / out muffler.

EDIT: I called Flowmaster directly to get that P/N but ordered it through the shop I chose to do all the work. What you see does sound close enough though.

ok thanx that is what i wanted.