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goodbye polished fuchs....
Ok, this maynot be a fashionable move these days, but I want to return my polished centers back to the stock black insets. I have 8's in the rear, 7's up front.
Questions: Is there a spec for the factory black color? (trim black? matte finish?) Whats the best way to prep the polished anodized surface before paint (sand/blast/etch/etc.)? Can I paint the polished caps black also (or should I buy black factory ones...)? Thanks guys... |
You might try to trade with someone that wants polished paddles for their stock finished fuchs.
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fucherman whats wrong with your polished wheels? I want to get my fuchs polished and was wondering how come your going back to stock color?
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fucherman you have a pm
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Krylon Satin black works fine.
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Wurth's Satin Black is the anal retentive weenie acceptable color....
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i prefer black too , looks more agressive than polished IMHO
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fucherman you have a pm
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You MUST bead blast or use some type of abrasive media prior to painting a polished wheel. Take it from someone that knows. I painted mine and had them chip due to the lack of bond of the Wurth with the polished areas, even after using self etching primer. Next, I masked and blasted them leaving a nice rough surface and painted again. If not blasting, use 220-300 wet-dry paper. It has held great now.
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Quote:
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1071811788.jpg
polished then powdercoated black (center) then powder cleared over all. |
I like black or full anodized better. Polished is a little too bling for me.
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Polished fuchs are quite easy to keep clean but they do attract a lot of attention when the sun is out.
Does the black powercoat crack and fall out when the lug nut is tightened against the wheel? What happens to the clear powdercoat over time, will it begin to yellow or will it stay clear? What's better chips in the clear powdercoat or dings in the polished metal? |
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