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Bench-testing alternator
My alternator is out of the car and has suffered a small fall onto the back of the unit.
I would like to test it, or at least verify the integrity of the connections, before reinstalling it. Is there a way to do this? What tests and values should I look for among the connections if it is possible? Thanks, Olivier |
I know they can be bench tested, but I don't know the details. I can say that even a clean bench test doesn't mean that it is totally healthy...but it should be good for a work/no work answer.
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Re: Bench-testing alternator
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You really can't check the diodes that way. They are all (three at time)
connected basically in parallel because of the windings. Two of the three could be bad and the resistance check would be O.K. The unit really needs to be turned using a motor or a drill. The D+ and B+ outputs need to be checked separately. Each is connected to the DF and excited using a test light connected to 12 volts. Once the alt. reaches about 600 rpms, the testlight will go out indicating that all diodes are O.K. for that output (D+ or B+). If the light glows, then a diode/diodes is/are bad. Have Fun Loren '88 3.2 |
To check diodes, you have to unsolder them to test them individually for one-way continuity.
A "bench test" at an electrical shop where they physically spin the alternator is probably a better suggestion. Sherwood http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
Thanks guys, I'll find a proper shop.
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Whoops! Responded to a seven year old thread.
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Take it to any shucks or napa and the'll check it out for free.
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Crap, me too!!
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never hurts to bump an informative thread
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Yes it will be asked again soon
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..and a 944 pulley fits right on. jic :)
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