Did you do the Carrera oil-fed tensioners yet? Might want to do the Carrera idler arms at the same time. Reliability upgrades--insurance, if you will. Costs less than $700. Sport muffler is pretty cool--$Around 350? SSI heat exchangers if yours are shot. I assume your 70T has carbs--maybe convert to Webers or rebuild your Zeniths--Carb rebuild kit--$cheap. Suspension bushings/torsion bars are good upgrades. Fuchs always look nice-15x6" wheels look good and aren't that much ($500?-- I actually have a set for sale). Good luck, congrats.

Scott

Set a brass pedal cluster bushings - $20, and adjusting the clutch cable after rebuilding the pedal cluster - free. This really improved the clutch feel.

geof33, the first thing I did was detail the interior, made a huge difference. Friday's project is a good wash and repolish the Fuchs, I'm waiting to wax the car until I order some Zaino bros. Luckily, I have the oil fed tensioners, Webers, and I know my Fuchs are 15. Headliner needs replaced, I need to order one to replace with the rear window seal. The clutch pedal has probably been adjusted, it feels fine, the clutch was replaced about 4000 ago. How will I know if the pedal cluster bushings need replacement?

1. Gut out the interior, laid it out on the driveway and washed it with detergent, dried it, and put it back. A clean interior makes the car 10 times better. ($0.20 worth of detergent, 3 days to dry in the rainy weather, finally blew dried it with hair drier)
2. While the interior is totally out, remove the pedal cluster, changed to bronze bushings, cure all noisy clutches, replaced all crazy PO crap, cleaned the pedal area of old oil, dirt, and grime. ($12 from Elephant racing, thanks Chuck!)
3. Dropped the engine, clean the engine compartment, glued the sound insulation material up, removed and repainted shocks ($1 worth of old insulation adhesive laying around from 5 years ago)
4. WHile the engine is out:
a. upgrade to carrera pressure fed tensioners ($375 from Performance Products)
b. change oil/gas/air filters ($25)
c. Change shift coupler bushings ($4)
d. change crank-bell housing bushings ($4)
e. change accelerator console bushings ($4)
f. change front and rear main seals ($20 for insurance)
g. change rotor and distributor cap ($25)
h. change to magnecor wires ($100)
i. removed and cleaned engine plastic shrouds ($0.10 of detergent)
j. Removed, degreased, cleaned and repainted all engine metal shrouds ($0.10 for detergent , $3 for the paint)
k. Removed, and painted fan to match plastic engine shroud ($3 for the paint)
l. Removed and painted fan housing silver ($3)
m. Removed, degreased, and cleaned all intake manifold tubes (same paint can as above)
n. Removed and degreased all air box components (free)
o. Replaced all broken heater hoses ($50 for all four)
p. Replaced spark plugs ($12)
q. Valve adjustment, (free)
r. Replaced old gear oil with Red Line MTL ($40)

5. Replace one dead hood shock with HD type (the other one is too hard to get to, so leave for later)

So now, the paint is clean, the interior is clean, and when the engine goes back in, it too will be clean and reliable. Steering wheel and ducktail will have to wait til the wife does not notice the fund transfer.

Well, that is what I did with mine, feel free to do the same with yours.

$25.00 for an oil change, gas filter and air filter ? Where are you shopping ? Did santa bring you those ? I spent $25.00 for oil and filter alone. Its another $40-$50.00 for the fuel and air .

Kurt Williams

Actually, the gas filter and the oil filter were about $25. The K&N air filter needed to be cleaned (and I have a cleaning kit from some years ago) so it's free. I have not added any oil to the engine yet (because it is still sitting outside the car) so that is another $20 or so for 10 cans of Castrol 20W50.

OK. That makes more sense.

Kurt Williams

Ya know, two "upgrades" I just did after having done prolly all the rest... to include lightweight this and that... were to change my ground wire to the battery to a 2 gauge hi end copper lead with a stainless steel battery terminal... Wow, are my lights brighter, fans run better everything is nice. You can get the high end stuff at any car stereo store. Have them crimp the end on for you, (the one to the body) a 2 gauge copper or stainless connector is one bee-otch to crimp without the right tool.

The other was to "upgrade" my coil from the 20 yr old Bosch to a new stock bosch... very nice as well... These two "upgrades" should have been at the top of the list when I bough my car 7 yrs ago.

On the pedal bushings, just do it. Most likely it hasn't been done and it will tighten up the whole cluster. You might just find some other "things" lurking in the dark, as I did. My pedal shaft was cracked at the clutch pedal connection. Cheap, relatively easy (be patient) and well worth it.

If his car is rusty the pedal recommendation would be a mistake if the cluster still works good. I would wait till the floors are being changed before opening up that can of worms. Nevermind that . Its not the easiest job to do either. If there is rust then the first upgrade is fix the rust. That should be the first and only duty on the list. Personally I own 6 early 911`s and all but 1 has had the cluster rebuilt. The rest are tight and smooth. Honestly the one that was rebuilt feels the worst since it doesnt return as smooth as it should. It will however break in once its driven daily.

Kurt Williams

My plan currently is to por15 all the current rust, in an attempt to stop it's spread. The car is my driver currently, and I can't afford the long downtime required by serious body work, and I can't afford a beater. I plan to focus on drivability now, and save until next winter, when I do plan to buy a beater, and then the 911 goes under the knife. My thinking is that I can achieve a much higher quality job when I don't have to have the car for transportation, and therefore don't have to rush. When I have another car, and money saved for the task, I plan to strip the car to bare metal, fix all the rust, and then repaint. Anything else I feel will require compromise, and I'd rather deal with a slightly rusty car for a year than cut corners on the repair.

The dash lights have no fuse protection, hence any short is an almost instant electrical fire. However, you can put a fuse holder inline very easily-use one with pigtails and put a 1/4 in female on one end, male on the other, and it plugs right in at the ignition switch, at least on later cars. 3A fuse. Do a search for more discussion of this.