Turbo tie rod boots torn to shreds and some other assorted problems

[Mike Kast]

well, I've known about the boots for a while. I have the belly pan off to change the fuel pump and I got to looking again. I think I need to do something about it now.
1) The spacer on the passenger side has about a half inch of play while the spacer on the driver side is tight.
What is up with that?
2)is it unlikely that the tie rod ends are still original? I think there original...
3) can I buy the boots? stupid question I know





and my sway bar bushings! ouch!

[Schrup]

Mike, I just installed new turbo tie rods, you can have my old boots. They're not ripped, as I recall they're in pretty good shape. It would take about a week to get there though. PM me if your interested.

[targa911man]

Mike--

Your tie rods are definitely not original, unless you mean original to the turbo tie rods? No way you should have that much play with the spacer. This is hard to describe, but you hold the "rod" part (the part showing inbetween the fingers in the middle photo) after its tight and turn the end that attaches to the wheel to adjust for alignment. The photo looks like they just unscrewed it from the steering rack to adjust the alignment (if it is aligned, which I doubt).

[Chuck Moreland]

Mike, looks like that tie rod was not properly torqued down. It has backed itself out.

Definitely a dangerous condition. Your alignment will be hosed, and it could eventually work all the way out and fall off!

[Steve W]

Mike, that doesn't look normal. If one of the tie rods started to unscrew from the rack, your steering would start going out of wack to one side. It's also somewhat difficult for it to start unscrewing out by itself due to the friction in the ball coupler. Like Dan mentioned, maybe it was turned out by whoever did the alignment. But anyways, use some locktite on the threads, and a set of channel lock pliers and tighten those tie rods back into the rack. You'll also have to readjust the toe on that side.

[Mike Kast]

I think the steering has changed but very slightly. I think it has been that way for some time. Now, help me make a to do list if you would. I need to do the sway bar bushings, boots, Tie rod ends (I think) and readjust the torsion bars. They are indexed so that I can't raise the car any higher and it's too low in the front. I really need to get bigger tires up front also. The front tires are smaller than the back.
I don't want to spend a ton of money right now. I would like to get the car back on the road as soon as possible.
Is that enough information to make a meal out of?
Thank you gentlemen

[3.2 CAB]

Holy crap, tighten that thing up!!! Hopefully some wrench that did an alignment has not FUBAR'D the thing. Squirt some "blue" on the threads and tighten. Hopefully the threads have not been damaged from the end having that kind of lateral movement, like trying to wobble out the threads.

[ubiquity0]

Maybe you should do the A-Arm bushings while you're at it? This seems to be the project of the moment with alot of pepole going at it.
Dan is right- your tie rod ends can't be original. That doesn't mean they're not worn though.
By needing 'bigger' front tires do you mean taller or wider? Either way it seems like this isn't urgent unless they're completely the wrong size for your rims?

[Mike Kast]

. The fronts have a shorter profile by about an inch.
The reason I brought it up was because of the alignment that will be needed. I'd consider it if it would save me a second alignment. The tires might get another 6 months or a year otherwise.

[ubiquity0]

I may be wrong here- but I don't think a change to a taller profile tire would require another alignment if thats all you do. If you think about it this isn't changing any of the suspension geometry- camber, caster, toe, none of these are effected. If you were to raise the front at the same time though, thats different.

[Mike Kast]

but I don't think a change to a taller profile tire would require another alignment if thats all you do.

That does make sense. I could get a close estimate as to how high I need to be with new tires by measuring. The ride height has to be adjusted and I guess if it calls for a second alignment than so be it.
I guess it's time to start doing searches to figure out a game plan. I can't even imagine what this car is going to feel like when it's all tightened up. It really felt pretty tight. I must be way to used to driving the Ford van. On the van you have to be turning the wheel a half turn in either direction just to go straight. And that's much improved from my old Van...
Maybe I'm exaggerating,
... a little...

[stealthn]

Mike, at least do the turbo tie rods and a bump steer kit. Mine looked fine until it was off then you could see one side was trashed. I have to think by the looks of that there are other issues hidden.

[Mike Kast]

I agree. I have been avoiding this since I bought the car. But it's on jack stands now and it won't come back down until I get it all streightened out.

...

I'm up for suggestions. All new bushings for sure. boots. I'll have to see if that Tie rod is salvagable. Tie rod ends???



A Arm bushings???


They don't look too bad, do they?

[Schrup]

Mike, good choice. New tie rods are $106, the ends alone are $70. How many miles are on your car? I had 110k & my A-arm bushings didn't look too bad. If your not going to autoX or DE you may not need to change your A-arm bushings now, as long as they look centered on the ends & the rubber looks like it's still in good shape & hasn't flowed to one side or the other. I would take your steering rack out & clean it real good, inspect it, & lube it. May as well repack your wheel bearings while your at it. Here's a link to the tie rods, seems they're $10 cheaper than they were a few weeks ago when I bought them.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_suspen_pg8.htm#item27

[Mike Kast]

230,000 Miles
I drove an 81 SC tonight for a friend in New York. 56,000 miles on it. It was cosmetically incredible. But as far as power goes, my car blew it away. I'm starting to like my old girl again, even if she is laid up.
So where do I start? Do I start tearing it all apart and then figure out what is good or bad? Or can I inspect the A Arm bushings without disassembling them?
I guess I can start ordering what I know I'll be needing and see how it goes.

[dickster]

mike,

do you know how old the A arm bushings are? they look ok to me.

[aigel]

I'd buy new tierods. They come with new ends and new boots and the question on what happened to the loose side's threads will be answered with that too.

The A arm bushing wear is not very visible from the 'outside'. You will see it once you look at the bushing's crossection. It tends to be squshed on the top, making it look saggy.

You are on a budget and the car needs to go on the road. I'd skip the A-arm bushings for now. That just means tearing into it deeper. Then there would be more mightaswells: Strut inserts, balljoint, brake lines...

The re-indexing of the front T bars is a breeze. It requires nothing but the weight off of the car and removal of the set screw. There is no need to get any deeper to the A-arm.

Here is what you need:

1.) new swaybar bushings
2.) new turbo tierods

George

[Mike Kast]

I don't know how old the A Arm bushings are. I'll go through the books again tonight. I was thinking the same thing George. Thank you for confirming.
That will get me going for now.
Thank's everyone.

[Mike Kast]

Grim discovery... I just found that the rim on that side of the car is bent.
Anyway. Can a rim be straightened of is it trash? Their Italian cup replicas. I want to get fuchs but I wasn't ready to do that yet. I might have to become ready...
Anyway I decided I would be a fool not to do the ball joint too. I think that would be everything besides the shocks. Could anyone tell me what special tools I'll need and if I can buy them at any tool supplier or are they Porsche specific? I know I could figure it out through searches but I have been working 15 hour days and I wanted to get the part and tool order in ASAP. I haven't had time to research...
Thank you guys...

[aigel]

Mike:

The only tool you will need is a socket for the balljoint retaining nut which is a special castle nut:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911E/POR_911E_suspen_pg5.htm



This tool is best operated with an impact (air or electric), or a big breaker bar. It asks for 180 ft-lb of installation torque IIRC. Nothing you can honestly put on it with hand tools without major hassle. The impact will deliver that nicely at full throttle...

Some people also use a joint separator for the tierod end to spindle connection. I just smack the spindle with the BFH and the tierod end falls right out. If that doesn't go, use a $10 pickle fork, since you will toss the ends anyway.

Now, to help you a little more with the decision what to do. I still think you should keep it all together and leave the balljoint and A arm alone. Because if you do that, you should do the whole nine yards, unless the other stuff is very new:

A-arm bushings
Balljoints
brakehoses
strut inserts

That's about another $500 in parts, including the balljoint tool? And that means you aren't goint with stiffer torsion bars, which would be the right point in time! That's another $250!

I have no clue what wheels that are, that you have there. I'd go fuchs later and drive these with the old tires you have for now.

Cheers, George