First Engine Drop Completed

[sammygon1]

I just finished my first engine drop, it took about 5 hours not too bad for my first time. I dropped it because I have to change the flywheel (check out the carnage on the teeth). I have two questions:

1. What are the bolts that hold on the flywheel? Are they 12-point Allen, if so what size?

2. What should I do to clean up my rusty muffler. What's the best paint treatment, etc?

[jyl]

If you're not in a hurry, check out Jet Hot coatings.

Search "jethot" or "jet hot" here for pics of yucky old heat exchangers made gleaming silvery new-looking with this process. For info http://www.jet-hot.com

I've not tried it myself but that's what's happening to my HEs when I get around to doing my exhaust.

[sammygon1]

Well, thanks to the Pelican tool list, I figured out that the tool for the flywheel bolts is a 12-point 12mm allen. Does anyone have a suggestion where to find one. I don;t have time to order one and I hope to have the engine back in by the end of the week. thanks, Sam

[Rick Lee]

For the flywheel tool, you can also get them as a bit that goes into a socket. Go to Pep Boys or some good local parts and tools shop. Lisle makes a lot of oddball tools and they have a pack of four - I think 8-12mm star bits, which you can insert into a 13mm socket, rig up some sort of flywheel lock and have at it. Make sure your tool is exactly perpendicular to the flywheel bolt and use a flex arm and maybe a breaker bar. For my homemade flywheel lock, I inserted an old pressure plate bolt into one of those empty holes toward the edge of the flywheel and then used a double-ended box wrench to connect that to one of the tranny-case mounting studs. Make sure you don't rotate the flywheel in the wrong direction.

[Rot 911]

Got my 12 point star bit at Sears. Like Richard said I just fit it into the end of a socket. I use an impact driver to loosen the bolts. Make sure you clean out the heads of those bolts before you even think about using the star bit. The heads of the socket bolts are very shallow and the bit does not really go in that far.

[Jadams1]

Poor Man's SSI's. I wire brushed the exhaust and used high temp header paint. It has to be cured by heat within so many hours of the application for it to work well. It's been two years and they still look pretty good.

[jpnovak]

I have also used high temp header paint on my muffler. Looks great after 3 years. I used the manifold grey.

If you are going to paint/clean the exhaust I will also suggest that you remove the cooling tin and mount and clean/paint them as well. It will really improve the appearance of the engine bay. Best to deal with that rust while its out of the car and easy to get to.

[RickM]

For less cost I'd vote for the High-Temp paint as well. I believe VHT is one of the better paints. Also, there are different grades for different temperature applications.

Regarding the "baking" or curing process...I believe some have suggested using a BBG grill or an old oven. A search will yield some other advice.

If you have access to a media blaster use it. It'll leave a beautiful matte finish on your piece.

[JC930]

Sand blast the muffler then use 1000 degree enamel no primer.

[North Coast Cab]

Nice job Sammy,
Local auto parts store "triple square" socket $8, and yes it's a 12 point 12 mm.
High temp paint will hold up will if you follow proper baking process.

John

[sammyg2]

Oh boy, it starts.
Get used to the phrase "while I'm in there" and also "as long as the engine's out".
Those phrases are likely to cost you serious time and money

[sammygon1]

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to go the sandblast and paint route. I just plan on doing the muffler for now. I also wanted to do a valve adjustment while the engine is out. Any tips on where to find good feeler gauges. Thanks, Sam

[Rick Lee]

Get the Island911 tool. Get two of them, put .004 stock in one and .005 in the other for double checking your work.