halfway there...rear deck alignment tricks?
 

OK, got the duck off the rear and have my original rear lid on. It is low on the upper right and shifted over to the right. Any tips/tricks on alignment? I suppose I can washer the right side up (between the arm and the lid). Also, the other thing I'm worried about is the latch alignment (ie not being able to open it back up). I dropped it and peeked to check and see if it was lined up...is that about all I can do?

Washers are the hot tip. Other than that, you just have to wiggle it around in the opening until you average all the margins. Lastly, line up the latch.

When I did mine... I used washers. Also, I disconnected the latch release cable to allow me to fully close the decklid and test fit the alignment. It takes all but two seconds to reattach the cable. Also, when you can fully close the lid, you can set the alignment as it will fit then slowly/carefully raise the lid to tighten the bolts.

Todd, the upper latch 'pin' can be shifted back and forth by loosening the two bolts. Put washers between the hinge and lid on the upper right.
Good luck,

Go with the washers. The factory actually used rectangular shims.

getting there
 

got the back on with a rough alignment, and the valence off. I tried to get the old thrashed valence back on for a temp fix, but I don't have the right hardware, and with the cooler up front it is really tight...since I've got to put another one up there anyway I don't think I want to go through it twice.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073090582.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073090603.jpg

Check out Damon's response to my similiar question....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132765&highlight=rear+d eck+lid

Best,

Todd,
I would probably be doing the same thing you are if this had all happened to me.
I like ducktails but it's pretty hard to improve on the classic lines of our 911's. And I know I would miss my 911SC badge as I'm not sure it would look right on the ducktail lid.

If you do the rubber lip on your valence you may still have a problem with your driveway but I think it's leading edge is further back than the valence your removing so it should pick up quicker with the front wheels.

The nice thing about the rubber lip is it's rubber and is fairly forgiving if you do stike it.
I put the tow hook enforcers on my SC and stike them once in a while. But I think some little wheels mounted on the tow hooks or? would be the best way to go.

You've got a nice SC by the way
:)

Todd,
Why did you remove the Duck tail?

Car looks mucho better, IMO.

Another little trick:

loosen the bolts that hold the latch pin thingy a little, just enough to let it shift and align itself in the latch, then close it and open it. If everything works smooth, torque them down.

Mixed feelings...

I think it works either way, it is a great looking car.

How about trying out the duck on the 21st??

I'm just going to go with stock valence, no front spoiler. With none on the rear, I don't *need* one up front. And as long as I stay at double digit speeds, I shouldn't notice a difference.

It will be interesting to feel though after I get the stock valence back on. It felt very planted on yesterday's ride, but it also had fresh turbo tie rod ends and align/corner balance.

I don't think the 21st is going to work. In addition to work looking nuts this month, my toy budget is...how do you say..."tapped" for the next lotta months unless I manage to do some insurance magic. I think in a couple months I'll be able to work a track day.

If you decide to sell your Duct tail, let me know. I need to replace my rear lid.