Torsion bar help

[wcroty]

I recently moved and my car was transported, when it came off the transport, I was not around, so my son and wife checked it out. No new miles, anything scratched everything looked fine. My son parked it in the back shop (after he took it around the bock a few times) and put the cover on it.
I did not get home for a few weeks, when I got home I looked it over but did not drive it, everything seemed fine to me. A few weeks ago I went to take it for a drive and the driver side rear was bottomed out! I didn’t know what to think a torsion bar? What happed when it was transported?
I finally had the time to lift her up and check it out, I can’t see anything bent or anything indicating that is was abused or tied down incorrectly on the transport.
In the air with the wheels off I looked it over very carefully, but can see nothing wrong. The suspension on the driver side moves up and down much eaiser than the passanger side, in fact I can move it about two inches by hand.
Is it possible for a T- Bar to break just sitting in the garage? The only thing that comes to my mind is I know that the torsion bars are only for use on one side, left or right. Is it possible that the PO had the wrong T-bar in that side and with the added stress from the transport it caused it to break?
Any way it looks like new T-Bars any recommendations on what size? While I’m at it I should do shocks too, what do you recommend. What about adjustable spring plates?
I want to try some autocross but mainly freeway and canyon drive.

Thanks,

Bryan

[Mike Kast]

Are you going to do the work yourself? Is it a front bar or rear? If it's front it is a very simple fix. I'd consider replacing the front's with new bars of the same size and driving on. It doesn't sound like you drive a whole lot. If it's a rear you might as well do some upgrading
Buget Suspension

There have been a lot of suspension threads recently so if you search you can get some instant gratification.

I'm in the middle of a similar project. I have no experience with it but I believe the sometimes snap when sitting still. As a matter of fact I don't think I have read anyone who's bar snapped say that it happened riding hard through a turn.
I remember a post where the guy was rolling slow or at a light when he heard a loud pop. He actually limped home.

I don't think anything the transporters could have done could have broken your bar. I'm curious to hear what some more expert suspension people have to say...

[aigel]

Bryan:

How does your shock look on that side??? Could it be 'disconnected'? That could give you similar results.

Time to take it apart and look.

What are you trying to achieve when wanting to install aftermarket torsion bars?

George

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by aigel
Bryan:

How does your shock look on that side???

Bilstein gas shocks raise the car. so either a blown shock or broken T-bar

[wcroty]

The shock looks fine.
I'm assumeing that the T-Bar is broken and needs to replaced.
do I understand it correctly that the T-bar hold the weight and the shock dampens the movment?
What lse could cause if to be completly bottomed out on the left rear corner besides a torsion bar??

She has a 135,000 Mi and I'm sure it needs some tlc with bushing and shocks.

I was thinking while I was at it maybe a little stiffer to try some autocross with?

Thanks,

Bryan

[RoninLB]

if I had to confirm a broken T-bar I guess I would disconnect the lower shock bolt and try raising the rear control arm manually.

28 rear bars and Elephant Racing bushings would be a little much for street traffic.. it would be great for highway driving

[marcesq]

Jack the car up and remove the shock bolt. Let the car down slowly. If the body comes down on the wheel then it is the torsion bar. If the car stops short of the wheel top and you can bounce the rear end then the shock is blown.

[wcroty]

IT COMES ALL THE WAY DOWN WITH THE SHOCK BOLTED ON OR NOT..MUCH FASTER WITH THE SHOCK UNDONE.

[marcesq]

Torsion bar broken or end cap or splines in torsion tube stripped.

[dickster]

if it is bottomed the t/bar must be broken.

IT COMES ALL THE WAY DOWN WITH THE SHOCK BOLTED ON OR NOT..MUCH FASTER WITH THE SHOCK UNDONE.

if you can lift the arm all the way through its range of travel (up and down - with the shock disconnected) time to pull the t/bar.

i upgraded to 22/31 bars on my '86 recently and love 'em (on the street). they are very firm but not harsh.

[coolbreeze]

you never mentioned how old your son was, or if he has a wild streak. there's much myestery surronding this boy.

once when i was a kid my dad's ninja got a "worn" speedo gear in the front hub. i listen to him talk to the dealer's parts guy, buddies, and who ever would listen about this strange wear pattern. seems that the fork type gear was all worn on one side, made the speedo jumpy. he replaced his 1984 ninjas speedo gear in 1986, to smooth out the needle.

what he din't know is while i had the bike out with the speedo unpluged, so he could not track miles, the tape came loose and the speedo gear dragged on the street for miles. i noticed way too late and when i plugged it back in,, the needle was jumpy. seems a worn speedo gear makes thing's jumpy for no reason.

[Mike Kast]

coolbreeze, what is this some kind of confessional? I think you need to have a talk with your dad! lol
Bryan? What kind of shock's do you have?
http://www.bilstein.com/warranty.html
Call the West coast office and ask for Jack. The California shop is the only one that restors 911 bilsteins.
I just shipped mine back for restor and revalve to sports spec.
$50.00 a shock I think. 25 pounds was expensive to ship. But I don't see any way of getting it done cheaper.

[wcroty]

My son is 19
It appears that I have Boge shocks.

Rich did you do shocks along wit the t-bars?
22 31 not too harsh?