My car is broke, HELP!

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 04:01 AM

My car is broke, and I don't have a clue what to do about it. Here's my earlier thread about a clutch related noise. Grinding noise with clutch to the floor?!
Thanks to John Walker, I figured out the noise was the release fork hitting the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is to the floor. At JW's suggestion, I loosened the clutch adjustment to the point that the noise was gone, but the car would still go into reverse without grinding. I tightened everything down and went for a drive, and made it all of maybe 50 feet before I heard a pop sort of noise and the clutch pedal went to the floor, the noise came back and the car slowed and stalled. My first thought was that the clutch cable broke, but when you push the pedal it still moves the cable underneath. The release fork is tight against the pressure plate regardless of clutch adjustment now, and I'm stumped. I can dial in more or less tension against the pressure plate, but I can't get it to come off. What is it that holds tension against the release fork, and keeps it off the pressure plate in the first place? Also, when I pull on the cable to give myself a little slack, and pull down on the release fork, there seems to be some play to it up inside where it mounts. Help!

Jim Richards · 01-16-2004, 04:23 AM

Sorry to hear about your clutch problems Matt.

Do the 70 911s have the different configuration for actuating the clutch (push vs. pull-type)?

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 12:22 PM

It's a push type Jim, if that's what you're asking. Can't anybody help me out here, I need a direction to go in, I'm sort of lost. HELP!

john walker's workshop · 01-16-2004, 12:29 PM

did you see my last comment on the other thread? see if the fork is still being held by the pivot bolt, or if the bolt broke, or unscrewed.

anh911 · 01-16-2004, 02:56 PM

yep, what Jw said. sounds like the fork is loose. Your first problem was likely the pivot loose, now it's off.

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 03:55 PM

As John had told me, I looked up into the release fork slot in the bellhousing, and it appeared that there was a bolt holding it in, but I really don't know what I'm looking at. There's a little tab looking thing that arcs over the top of the bolt. Is there any way I can check to see if the fork is loose, if I pull on the cable to release the tension on the fork, I can pull down on the fork, does it normally have some play to it? If it is just loose, what will I need to tighten it, and how tight does it need to be? I'm praying that it's just loose, I really don't want to drop my engine right now, and I assume that's what fixing the fork would entail.

anh911 · 01-16-2004, 04:03 PM

You can take the cable off the fork and try to see how much play there is. If it's right there will be some play but if it's loose you'll know.

john walker's workshop · 01-16-2004, 04:11 PM

it's hard to decide the fork situation with the cable still attached to it. free the fork from the cable and then move it. it should simply pivot on the ball/bolt that goes thru it and screws into the bellhousing. you should not be able to pull it in or out. the fact that it's up against the pressure plate makes me think the pivot bolt is broken or it unscrewed itself out of the bellhousing.

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 04:35 PM

John, why do you have to be right? The fork is off, now what? I assume this cannot be fixed from underneath, and will involve pulling the engine? Do you happen to know what parts I need to order to reattach the fork properly? Thanks, but I wish you were wrong. My first engine drop, if I only lived in NoVA.

Rot 911 · 01-16-2004, 05:35 PM

I don't think there is anyway to get at that pivot pin without an engine drop. I hope I am wrong and someone jumps in with a good suggestion. I am assuming you are talking about part number 5 in this diagram:

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 05:46 PM

Where's that diagram from Kurt? Yeah, it's #2 that's hanging down out of the hole in the bellhousing now, and I can't really get a light into there to see what's left. Is #5 a bolt or a stud? Is there a nut that goes on the other side of washer #3?

Elombard · 01-16-2004, 05:55 PM

You wont believe how easy the drop will be. Take your time, I can tell your mechanical. 2 hours and you will have it out. Then you can see what parts you need. If I remember right this is your driver so hopefully you can get the parts locally. IF you can you will be back on the road Monday - no prob. You will really love your car even more after the drop - its a right of passage!!

Rot 911 · 01-16-2004, 05:56 PM

Matt, the diagram can be found on the Pelican 911 home page under "part diagrams" #5 is a bolt and will cost you $30.50:
Ball Pin (pivot bolt) for Release Arm, 911 (1970-71)
C-116-772-11 $30.50

What shop manuals do you have that might show you how to get access to the pivot pin?

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 06:13 PM

Right now all I have is the Haynes manual, 101 projects, and BA Performance Handbook. I had intended to get the factory manuals before I got into anything major, but it looks like my car just changed my plans. Is it hard to get access to after the engine is out?

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 06:14 PM

Also, if #5 is a bolt, is there a nut, or what does it thread into?

Elombard · 01-16-2004, 06:22 PM

I think it threads into the bellhousing/tranny case. Once you drop the engine/tranny and seperate them it will be a snap to reach -its right inside the bell housing. You dont need the factory manuals. No worries.

4 bolts
the linkage (inside the car)
the wires on the starter and the gound strap
the fule line(s)
unplug the wiring harness
unbolt the axles

letter down slow and easy.

(not necessarily in that order)

My car is a 915 73' so ther may be some small differences.

Cant wait to see your "while I am in here" thread!!

Oh get lots of rags and parts cleaner, you will want to go nuts cleaning!!

If you could find a way to get to work next week it would be sweet. Then you could clean and detail better. Drop this weekend. Order Parts, clean while waiting for parts. Re- install next weekend.

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 06:41 PM

Yeah, but of course this weekend I'm going out of town. I can share a car with my wife, so that's not a big deal, but you can imagine her attitude about my Porsche breaking within a month of purchase. The engine drop is covered in 101 Projects, so I know what I'm looking at, I'm not real worried. And don't worry, the while I'm in there thread is coming! Is there anything in particular that I need to fix this problem, besides the bolt?

Jim Richards · 01-16-2004, 06:43 PM

Quote:

(not necessarily in that order)

Erik's right! not in that order. Follow the flow in Wayne's book, but expect it be be a bit off since he dropped an SC engine (probably for broken head studs!

) in the book. There are also some prior threads that are good to follow, maybe I can help you locate them tomorow on Pelican (need sleep!). Might try finding the marcesq or Richard Leschander thread(s) on this from 2002, I think. I would recommend a pair of sturdy jack stands, one or preferably two floor jacks, the jack plate tool (qty 2), a couple of 2x6 peices of wood, a couple of cinder blocks, a motorcycle/ATV jack & a cut down wooden pallet (to lower the engine) and a tranny jack to support, what else, the tranny! The oil line wrenches are worth having for this, so you can disconnect your hard oil line.

If you buy some Pabst pounders, Richard Leschander might even show up.

onewhippedpuppy · 01-16-2004, 06:48 PM

If I lived near you Jim, I'd probably have already had it out, what, maybe three times in the month I've had it?

Jim Richards · 01-16-2004, 06:59 PM

Quote:

If I lived near you Jim, I'd probably have already had it out, what, maybe three times in the month I've had it?

Nah, it's damn cold here...it slows you down...need more pee breaks while drinking beer. Probably only have your engine out twice.