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Question Lithium grease question

I've noticed in 101 that it says use white lithium grease. Just curious, is there a difference between white lithium and reagular greenish-brown lithium grease?

I think about it everytime I read something that says to use the white stuff, but I always forget to ask.

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Old 02-05-2004, 08:53 AM
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KTL KTL is offline
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Greases are all different. Even white lithium greases can differ. Check out www.dowcorning.com to see what I mean.

For what are you planning to use the grease? I myself have never been a fan of your typical white lithium grease because it doesn't seem to be very durable/long-lasting and doesn't always like high pressure applications where an EP grease is better suited.
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:59 AM
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Nothing in particular. I remember the book and others say to use white lithium, but I've always just used normal lithium. For instance in the shifter housing and ball cupler.

But, you're right, I've noticed that the white lithium seems to dry up over time.
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Chad aka "Chili"
1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit.
No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.)
My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI
1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras.
Old 02-05-2004, 09:07 AM
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yes i used white lithium grease for my pedal cluster rebuild, and the thing still squeaks. i am getting used to the squeaking, because no way in hell i am messing with that damn roll pin, unless i absolutely have to.
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Old 02-05-2004, 09:10 AM
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Cliff, get a shop press and those roll pins will be fun to deal with.

I've used WLG a lot because many applications call for it specifically. But it's not a perfect grease. then I noticed this amber-colored stuff that is very tacky, even stringy. I think this stuff is meant for applications that will never ever get regreased again. Its consistency after twenty years of service is about the same as when it was squeezed out of the tube. Stays on, too. I'd hate to have to clean it off of something.
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Old 02-05-2004, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by unfixed
yes i used white lithium grease for my pedal cluster rebuild, and the thing still squeaks. i am getting used to the squeaking, because no way in hell i am messing with that damn roll pin, unless i absolutely have to.
I noticed mine squeeked after my rebuild, too. But I noticed it was the clutch helper spring squeeking/resonating on the post that held it, not the actual cluster pivot points. I used 3 in 1 oil on both posts that the spring conects to and no more noise. Didn't even need to remove anyting. The 3 in 1 is so thin it gets in under stuff. I held a rag under it to catch any drips.
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Chad aka "Chili"
1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit.
No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.)
My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI
1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras.
Old 02-05-2004, 10:14 AM
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holy crap, chili. why didnt i think of that? i was hurting my abs by pushing the pedal with my arms, so i just gave up. damn! thanks.

cliff
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Superman
Cliff, get a shop press and those roll pins will be fun to deal with.

I've used WLG a lot because many applications call for it specifically. But it's not a perfect grease. then I noticed this amber-colored stuff that is very tacky, even stringy. I think this stuff is meant for applications that will never ever get regreased again. Its consistency after twenty years of service is about the same as when it was squeezed out of the tube. Stays on, too. I'd hate to have to clean it off of something.
I know what you're talking about. I have a break from an old Otis lift and it had that stuff all over in the zerks and around bushings. Man, that stuff was a biatch to get off. 3 cans of degreaser and lots of scrubbing. The grass I was working on didn't care for it either.

But the end result was awsome. Cool piece of machinery from around the 20's, I'd say. I "liberated" it from an old building that was getting renovated with new elevators.
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"I understand that you want to drive fast, it's just that I want to go faster!" Move ova please

Chad aka "Chili"
1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit.
No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.)
My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI
1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras.
Old 02-05-2004, 10:18 AM
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I am no expert, but I always thought the white lithium grease was substitued for the "better" normal lithium grease in applications where you might get it on you clothing, such as door hinges, garage door tracks, etc.
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:42 AM
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KTL KTL is offline
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Just a follow up.........

As far as greases go, "lithium grease" is a general term and would describe a WIDE range of greases as you can see.



Taken from the McMaster-Carr online catalog. McMaster-Carr is a great source of info. To check out a ton of different greases, go to the McMaster home page (www.mcmaster.com) and type 1986 into the search line. It'll bring up catalog page 1986 and you can scan thru more grease info. than you'd ever care to observe!


I still say basic, general purpose white lithium grease stinks. Overkill is sometimes a good thing when it comes to choosing which grease to use for an application. Pick a grease that can handle extreme pressure (EP), is long lasting and throw that white goop in the trash.
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:14 AM
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I agree with Kevin! I have been using only two types of grease for over 30 years ... Silicone grease such as Dow Corning 4, 4X, 111, or 112 wherever WLG is called for and EP rating isn't needed, and EP Moly grease for everything else.

Some people call it overkill to use Moly EP grease on wheel bearings, but I haven't had a single failure in the 35 years I have been doing it! Valvoline #985 or #986 SynPower Synthetic Grease with Moly works great for CV-joints, steering racks, alternator bearings, starter Bendix mechanisms, clutch cables, shift rod bushings, and wheel bearings! The slight savings achieved by using WLG is foolish economy, IMHO! The red, blue, green, and purple lithiums aren't much of an improvement over the white variety, either!

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Old 02-10-2004, 11:36 AM
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