pedal cluster help

[targa911S]

Ok so when I took out the carpeting on the drivers side, it was wet with brake fluid. So replacing the master cylinder is on the job list this weekend. I figure while I'm in there standing on my head cleaning and repainting the floor because of the brake fluid, I may as well replace the bushings in the pedal works. Anybody want to talk me throught this? No book I own addresses the proceedure. Any links to "How to" Pages? I would appreciate any and all advice.

[Terry A]

There's a good article on pedal cluster rebuilds on this site. Look under 911 tech articles.

[Zeke]

It's all right here

[vash]

not to laugh, i just did this a few weeks ago. exact thing! it isnt really hard at all. start here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mult_pedal_cluster/Mult_pedal_cluster.htm

he rates it a 4, and that is only because it is a greasy mess, and you need a tiny head and long arms. order your parts, MC, bronze pedal rebuild kit (cheap), maybe a new clutch cable (cheap insurance) and about 3 liters of brake fluid, i used ATE blue. then take everything apart. go under the car, remove pan that covers everything like the steering rack. then unbolt the MC which shares studs with the pedal cluster coming from the inside. mine were sorta rusty. then go inside and take off the gas pedal, two 10mm bolts. yank it out after taking off the ball socket connection from the back. then remove the two 13mm from the floor. then take out the pedal cluster. i think you have the easy clutch spring. then follow the instructions in the tech article. i went with the machine shop to remove the cursed roll pin. that is up to you. now you have time to beadblast, clean, paint and whatever before you parts get there. pm me if you need a serious walkthru.

cliff

[Schrup]

I started this little project yesterday on my SC. It helped a little that I had most of my interior already removed, along with my shifter (waiting for a new shift coupler). I removed my steering wheel to give me more room. The clutch spring was easier to pry off at the front where it attaches to the pedal console mount. I removed the accelerator pedal for some more room. I broke the clutch clevis fork trying to get the snap retainer pin out. Seems I've broke a lot of crap lately.

I brought the parts to work, bead blasted the pedal console mount & both pedals. I cleaned up the clutch pedal shaft with some 600 grit sandpaper. The bushing in the end of it had been worn through, & the snap retainer pin had worn a groove in the metal. That's probable why I had to break it to get it apart. I used a dremel to clean up the hole enough to get the brass bushing pressed in.

I'm not looking forward to getting that clutch spring back in place. I ordered my new parts from the host today, including a new clutch cable. It took me an hour to get the cluster out, so I figure it will probable take me twice as long to get it back in. At least that the way it seems to go for me.

[vash]

i bought a new snap clevis thingy, but i didnt break my original despite my hamfisted approach.

i got the spring back on easy. with a tool that i never ever use. i used that long handle drum brake tool used to install those little hellion springs found on the old school stoppers. put the entire thing into a vice and i used the tool to leverage it on. eye protection is a must. face shield would probably be better.

[nigel911]

Hey T-Bird,

Lucky you're such a short guy, otherwise you would all sorts of difficulties folding yourself into the driver side footwell...

Joking aside, this is a job I want to attempt soon (along with all the others) - good luck and let me know how you get on.

[yelcab1]

The clutch return spring is a freaking bit## to get back on. I did it twice and it was not fun.

[targa911S]

As usual you all have come through ..big time! Thanks! I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks,

[vash]

i dont have the complex clutch "omega" shaped helper spring. so i had a trick in getting the clevis pin back in. i went under the car and used a c-clamp to, i guess push the clutch. i only need a tiny bit to put some slack into the system at the pedal assembly. when i went back into the car, it was right there! i simply hooked it up, and used my arm to push the clutch, and i heard the c clamp drop off. pieceocake.

tip. take the electric brake switch off and put it somewhere safe. only install it after the pedal cluster is back in the car. i cracked mine while wrestling with the spring, and destroyed it pulling the MC pushrod up and into the MC. damn! it was almost perfect.

cliff

[Chuck Moreland]

On a '70, leaking fluid on the driver's floor may be due to the lines that run between the reservoir and the MC. Check their condition and replace as required.

[targa911S]

Thanks Chuck , that IS good advice. They won't be the first 34 year old lines I've replaced.