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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Virginia Beach VA
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Remove quarterpanel?
I've finally gotten back to work on my '71T targa after completing the suspension pan replacement last year. I need to replace the outer rockers on both sides, inner rocker on passenger, and repair rust damage on quarterpanel top on both sides. The rust on top started out as bubbles in the paint, but when I removed the rear window they grew to actual holes under the lower wihdow seal.
I would love to get some advice from you rust repair experts out there. I can't decide if I should remove the quarterpanel on the drivers side. There's no inner fender rust, but there is rust damage on the inside of the door-strike post. My main problem is that I have to weld the rear of the outer rocker to the 'kidney bowl', which appears undamaged. Access to the kidney is blocked by the lower quarterpanel, so it looks my options are 1. - remove the quarterpanel, or 2 - cut about 10 inches off the bottom of the quarterpanel. I've searched this forum and can't find any detailed descriptions of 911 quarterpanel removal. Can anyone describe the process? I have the Lindsay Porter Haynes restoration manual, but it's not very clear. It seems like I could drill out spot welds along the door-strike post, along the seam inside the engine compartment, and only have a small cut to make behind the rear window. Has anyone done this, and how hard is it? My driver's side has rust holes on the inner quarter-panel wall, so I don't think I have any choice but to remove the panel on that side. So I guess my questions are, should I cut the bottom off the quarter panel on passenger side or remove the whole panel, and what's the easiest way to remove and re-install a quarterpanel. Sorry for the long post, I greatly appreciate any advice. Thanks, Brad ![]() ![]()
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Brad H. '71 911T |
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Don't worry, Jamie Novak will come to your rescue soon enough...
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Marc 1971 T Targa |
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I hope you are an excellent bodyman. I would suggest you have a qualified bodyshop do the repairs, especially on the upper body. The rockers can be patched in by a good welder with little chance of showing.
Good luck Larry
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2001 Turbo |
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Brad, by the way, what steps did you take in removing the rear glass?
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Marc 1971 T Targa |
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Use paint stripper
I had the same issues with my 72 Targa. I suggest that you use paint stripper to really get a good look at the sheet metal you are attempting to repair. By the way my body man repaired this area really well
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72 911 Targa VTK Member 110245 71 911 Targa 68 911 non sunroof Coupe Gruppe B # 3911 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/cassidyp |
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Marc,
The rear window was very easy to get out - much harder to get back in, or so I'm told. The rubber seal is very soft, just cut along the trim piece until it falls out. Some books recommend prying the trim out, but I don't see the point of that because it bends easily and you can get it out in perfect condition by cutting. After the trim is out, keep cutting the seal to expose the edge of the glass all the way around and the glass will come free. Watch out for the defroster wires, you can pull the seal back from inside prior to cutting to see where they are. Anybody have any advice on quarterpanel removal techniques? Brad
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Brad H. '71 911T |
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I'm flagging down Jamie as I write.....
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Marc 1971 T Targa |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
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Careful, You are about the head down a difficult path that will take lots of time and effort. That being said, Lets start the project.
Is this your first project? How good of a welder are you? You will be repairing the main structure on the car. It will have serious problems if not done correctly. Teh biggest problem facing you right now is that its a targa. I would not recommend that you cut out the rockers unless you can jig the car or cross brace it. You will have to weld and X using angle iron between the windshield frame and rear seat area and also the targa bar and the front floor area. This braces must tie together where they cross. Failure to do this will likely bow the chassis preventing the doors from closing properly. Also clamp the top in place after welding in your braces. you will have to brace both sides. Once the car is properly supported you can start cutting out the panels. I would just notch out the QP about 3 inches above the vetical plane of the rocker. Only go back to the kidney. This will reduce the amount of blending that has to be done post repair and ensure that most will be covered up by the rocker cover in the event of a DIY misalignment. You will run into the leaded joint where the latch post and rockers meet. Heat the area with a torch and melt out as much of the lead as possible. It will make welding a nightmare if you don't. To remove the rocker you can drill out the spot welds. I chose to just cut along the seam and then grind through the top layer of metal. I didn't want to drill all the way through both flanges and reduce the material available to weld. If you drill make sure to use a spot weld cutter. First remove the outer rocker and then the inner panel. you have the new panels so you can easily see where to cut. If you are going this deep into the metal replace the jack tube recepticle and support. To replace buy a sheet metal punch and put holes along the seam. Simulate spot welds using a plug weld and grind flush. I would start the inspection of the QP rust by first grinding back to bare metal staring at the rust holes and working back a few inches from the hole. I will bet the rust is more significant. I wouls also go underneath the wheel well and remove all undercoating from this area. Do this and post back before starting the rocker. Many times the area that supports the targa bar is bad and the car is a timebomb waiting to fall apart. If this is the case it will be far more efficient, time and moneywise to find another project. Otherwise it may be a few years before its all done. You are welcome to email me if you have more questions and do not want to post. I am usually faster getting to emails than posts on the board.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Jamie,
Thanks for the reply. I would say I'm ok with the MiG, just slow. I already removed and replaced the suspension pan, which involved hundreds of plug welds and a some custom fabricated pieces to fix some surrounding rotted areas. Turned out great. The rockers and QP rust you see in the photos will be the last rusted areas on the car that I know about, and I've been pretty deep into this car. Professional help is not an option because I'm sure the cost would quickly add up to more than the car is worth. Besides, I like doing this kind of thing. My problem is that I have some rust holes on the inside fender well behind the QP, way up high near the rear window. I'm not talking about the rust you can see on the QP, these holes are on the inner panel behind the QP. This is on the drivers side only, not passenger. So I don't see any option other than removal of the entire QP on drivers side. I've seen lots of pictures of 911s with the QPs removed, but nothing detailed describing the best way to cut them off. If I have to remove the drivers side, which I do, it seems like I might be better off removing the passenger too rather than cutting through the QP skin to access the kidney. It all depends on how hard it is to remove and install the QP compared to repairing a cut-off piece of the bottom of the panel. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Brad
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Brad H. '71 911T |
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