86 CV Boot split... new axle?
 

do I need new axles or can the joint be repacked on a 1986?

What would a typical porsche mechanic charge for this?

Less than $180 for boot and repack. What makes you think you need new axles? Noise? Rattles?

Its the outer boot...not the inner boot. Ive read that the outer can not be serviced on the 85-89...but need to make sure before I go see my mechanic.

I dont have the tools or garage space for this.

No need to replace unless they're shot. Repack and replace boots and you should be all set.

I'm not sure, but I think Sonic has a special problem...I think the outer CV joint is friction welded to the axle or hub on the outer end....not as easily ( or not at all) demountable like the earlier cars up to 85 ...no?

---Wil Ferch

Yes Will... this is what I suspect. Hopefully someone here with a Carrera who has faced this situation will respond as it is a situaiton only unique to mid 80s carreras... Id like to get some first hand accounts of this, before I go talk to a mechanic.

Can he cut off the old boot and replace with an erlier boot?

Axles are relatively cheap ($255 new from Pelican) compared to labor. I'd get a quote for replacing the axle (worst case). It might not be much more than some alternatives once you tally up the labor especially if the outer CV is the one needing repacking.

Which boot, inner or outer?

-Chris

outer

Outer boot can be replaced but cv has to be cleaned and regreased as one unit - it does not come apart. Not a difficult job - just a little messy. No need for new axle unless cv is bad and noisy.

Thanks Randy, its not noisy at this time. I will make the recommendation to the garage to regrease and repack, reboot etc.

I just looked under there after a drive. The grease was splattered above it and dripping down off of the split in the boot. At first I thought it was oil, then I saw the rip in the boot and felt the grease with my fingers. The grease was warm.

The outer boot split on my '88 with 117k miles. I'm still not sure if I did the right thing, but I went ahead and replaced the axles. It was obviously a bit more $ in parts than just replacing the boots, but I figured that the cv's could go at some point soon considering the milage. I did it myself, but got lucky in locating a 600lb torque wrech off ebay for $39 for the rear axle nut.

Maybe you should ask the mechanic what the hourly charge wiil be to repack vs less time to install the complete replacement axle. Might be worth having it done. I don't suppose either route is 'wrong' ;)

This is one of those things where I really don't think a "factory trained certified gold plated professional Porsche mechanic" is really necessary.

Axels don't wear out unless the CV joint is loose on the axel itself.

For this particular job I would consult a driveline shop that specalizes in front axel/ front wheel drive work. Locally we have a Rockford (brand of front end pieces and CV's) dealer that is a very good half shaft drive axel repair shop. They are more than reasonable and stand behind their parts and installation/work. I use them for sourcing boots clamps and CV joints. They stock the same ones as I can get from the Porsche dealer! In fact they stock them when the dealer doesn't.

Try that before plunging for the big bucks.

Good luck,
David Duffield

Yes...well I cant even get the damn shock mounting bolts to the trailing arms off...even with a 20" breaker bar, and I have a ton of muscle and strength.

Not having a garage stinks.... so Im taking it to the wrench to have both the CVs and the rear shocks done. Time to bite the bullet. Thanks for the replies!

I think you have to put a bottle jack under the trailing arm and take its weight off the shock.

I put new boots on my 88. Messy but not difficult.

I had two torn outer boots on my 88 and, like others have said, I decided to just replace the axles with new ones from Pelican. A very easy job. You do not need to buy a 600lb torque wrench for the axle nut!!! I bought a $10 breaker bar locally and stood on the end of it the appropriate length to get the 300+ lbs of torque. New axles also gets you new CV bolts. Make sure you use the correct triple square socket on them!

It does not sound like you are going to do this yourself... but if you did you could replace both axles for what you shop will probably charge you to repack. It is easy. Like Rick said, get the weight off the shock. Use an impact gun if available, if not a breaker bar will work. Tap the nut with a hammer 1st. Remember to use the proper washers (new ones) when installing the axle or it could come loose. Torque the bolts to the proper amount (I would tell you if I remembered), and borrow a 600ft/lb torque wrench or use a bathroom scale and your breaker bar (3' out, stand on the b-room scale, if you weigh 175 push on the bar until it reads 75lbs, you are applying 100pds * 3' of length= 300ft-lbs) Again, I don't remember what the exact torque is supposed to be, this is just an example of how it works. This is a project that YOU CAN DO!!!

I agree with "YOU CAN DO IT" responses. Today, I backed off the compression nut off my reight rear axle and replaced the entire CV/axle assambly with a new one. I also chose this time to replace the fading rear shocks with new Bilstiens. Other that sacrificing one 3" (1/2" dirve extension), this was easy and straightfoward. I will say having a warm garage was a HUGE advantage.

Lots of good advice here.

If the axles have relatively low mileage or they look good inside after getting the boots off, then there's nothing wrong with replacing only the boots. Have the guy inspect them and ask him to give you an honest answer if the joints are in need of replacement. If so, hopefully he can source a reman set of axles for a fair price to you (bringing parts into a shop to have work done is a no no).

And yes, the outer boots can be replaced on the later friction welded axles. I did mine. Messy job! I remember posting something about this job. So do a search with KTL and axle, shaft, joint, or something like that if you're curious. I had to resort to a 3/4 in. breaker bar to get the axle nut loose. Kept breaking 1/2 in. drive socket extensions.

Thanks to everyone for their advice. Fact is that in theory, I should be able to do this job...

But without a garage to work in, proper tools and necessary time...Im taking it to the mechanic tomorrow. Its my only choice.