Engine is back in and running...sort of

sammyg2 · 02-16-2004, 12:16 PM

I just finished re-installing the engine in my SC after doing some modifications for the BAE turbo.
After double-checking everything twice (4 times altogether)
I primed the fuel lines and started it up. Took a few cranks because I prolly flooded it a little, but it started up and sounds good. I climbed all over it looking for something to be wrong before I took it for a spin and the old saying is true, if you look long enough for something you will find it even if it isn't there.

The 1/4" braided stainless steel hose that feeds the oil to turbo has a small hole in it.
Great.
The hose came with the kit and it looked fine, no I didn't pressure check it but I should have. Where are those hindsight glasses when you need them?

Bad thing is I can't get the hose off without doing another engine drop so my plan is to try and get a new fitting for the hose, cut it off where the leak is, and install the fitting and a new section of hose. I've installed aluminium fittings on SS hoses before and IIRC it was never easy.
This one is really going to be fun given the location but it should be possible. The leak is near the middle of the driver's side upper valve cover. Ordinarily that wouldn't be too bad but now I have the turbo plumbing running over that area and I don't want to have to remove it, getting it all in there and hooked up was a major PITA. I had to hook up the turbo inlet piping and tighten the clamps, then raise the engine into the compartment.
So close, yet so far.
Thanks for letting me get this off my chest. I don't know if I feel good for getting so much done, or bad because it wasn't perfect.
Hope this wasn't a stupid question

tsuter · 12:32 PM

Naw, not stoopid at all! You should be able to remove the turbo inlet and outlet pipes pretty easy without dropping the motor. Turbo outlet comes off first. The one to the throttle body. Lift it straight up and remove including the bonnet attached.
If that oil supply line is not leaking at the back then I would splice onto it behind the leak. 3/8p to -4AN straights
Good luck.

sammyg2 · 02-16-2004, 12:38 PM

I definitely found the leak, it is in the middle of the hose. What you describe is exactly my plan, cut and splice in a new fitting.
The turbo inlet pipe is the only one that gave me problems, I couldn't get the pipe in the rubber 90 with the engine installed all the way. I fought it for over an hour before I dropped the engine 6 inches. That made it much easier. I just couldn't get the pipe to go into the rubber.
My 90 degree suction boot doesn't look quite as nice as yours, it is prolly original to the kit and it's kind of soft. That and the fact that I decided not to move my thermotime switch yet makes it even harder. I glued a 1/4" thick piece of rubber on the 90 to protect it from the thermotime switch. I should have just moved the darned thing but I wanted to get the car running again. Three months is way too long for the rear tires to be in the air and the weather is too nice to be without a running porsche.

tsuter · 02-16-2004, 01:04 PM

When you install the turbo inlet pipe, (do it before the outlet pipe), get it into the 90 rubber elbow first and tighten that pretty good. Then have the clamp (pipe to silicone bonnet) real real loose but on about 1.5 inches and get the silicone bonnet onto the top of the airsupply airflow sensor and clamp that. Then lastly pull back and clamp down the silicone bonnet on the pipe.
The outlet is much easier as you may have found but still easier if you first attach the pipe to the turbo outlet and second to the throttle body although you can almost do this one simultaneously if you position it above and just drop/slide it straight down.

tsuter · 02-16-2004, 01:29 PM

That thermotime switch will cause you more problems than you realize in there. Now is the time to get it out. Even if you don't relocate it now (you probably don't need a CSV cold start in CA anyway).
It certainly is impacting the elbow position.
Here is a picture showing a plug in the hole. If you do that now it will free the room to more easily get that turbo inlet pipe in and out of the elbow.
Mine is a heavy duty 3" rubber 90 not the flimsy silicone one. The silicone one failed long ago.

.

sammyg2 · 02-16-2004, 02:14 PM

Yep, getting an elbow like that and moving the switch are on the list of things to do, but I got to the point where I wanted to just drive it with boost and test some things out. It is a work in progress but I've always hated the concept of long term car projects where the car is laid up for years.

I like to do a little bit, drive it for a while, then do some more stuff. that way i never get burned out on a project.

Any ideas where I should look for one of those elbows?
I went to Turbo City on Friday, they didn't have any 3" stuff in stock but they suggested I need a cast aluminum short radius 90. it looked good but I wasn't sure about it. Didn't matter tho, the company that sells em is back ordered big time with no idea when they will be able to supply them again.

tsuter · 02:56 PM

Here is a source for the elbow. Its a 3" 90 degree. You may need to cut off about 1 inch on the turbo connection flange to shorten it a bit.
Cost $9.39!!! For big spenders.

http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=AFSI&Category_Code=9D

edit: Here is one for silicone. get the 4 ply red.

http://www.turboengineering.com/miscellaneous_accessories/silicone_hose.html