Help! Alternator crashed
 

Couple of weeks ago my alternator light came on and lights began to dim. I got a replacement alternator today along with a new regulator. Install went well but now the dang generator
light is still on. I am getting 14 volts at the battery but the
light is still on the gauge. What now?

I have a 76 carrera with a marchal alternator and external
regulator.

Do I need to check the bulb on the dash or ??

have you disconnected and bypassed the regulator noise supressor on the engine comp. elec panel ?

We need more information. What type voltage regulator? When you hooked it up, what wires went to what terminals?

noise supressor
 

I was thinking that the noise supressor might be the culprit. Can I just disconnect it. I have a VR that has a three prong plug and looks like a rectangle 2 x 3 inch stainless box. It does not look like the older style in the haynes manual. The VR is brand new
borg warner.

The light is dim not like when I turn the ignition on but
only half as bright. Does not dim with increase in RPM's.

I checked connections at bulb. One blue wire, one red and black
12+ volts to red, black with key on.
The bulb is a 2w.
Do I need a 4w?

How can I bypass the noise supressor with this three prong setup on the VR?

I have a voltage meter. What do I need to check?

Thanks guys...

If you have the suppressor it will have the three prong plug also. Essentially it is in line between your wire harness connector and the voltage regulator that is mounted on the electrical panel. So if you have it you should see two boxes. The rectangualr box (V/R) and a smaller one (suppressor) connected to it just disconnect the suppressor from the V/R and connect the harness connector directly to the V/R.

pics
 

I took my car for a test drive everything is working perfect except the light is alt light is glowing just slightly. Here is what I know

Batt at rest 12.65 volts
Car running no acc on 14.20 volts
lights etc on 14.10 volts

Here are some pics

1st one: pen is pointing to noise suppressor?

2nd: Connections to suppressor and VR

3rd: White/black wire unplugged?

4th: Red/white? Any ideas?

Sorry about long post. Hope this can help someone else having problems as well...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1077214522.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1077214540.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1077214554.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1077214575.jpg

here is a pic of my stuff:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=146872&highlight=voltag e+regulator

So you have a Borg-warner VR (Probably an R588?) It sounds like it's working, although the conventional wisdom is you're supposed to use the same brand VR as alternator, which would mean a Marchal VR. Personally, I don't think the alternator knows what brand of VR is sending it field current, but the factory felt strongly enough that they specified it back in the day. The reason is, different types of VRs put out different current to the rotor depending on design. But let's not split hairs on that yet.

And while I'm digressing here, you could also probably use a Neihoff WA 709 or one of the other OEM types. These are actually replacements for the Bosch regulator.

All right, so you have the engine wire harness that goes into the 14 pin connector at the bottom of photo #3, above. Pin #11 of that should be a blue wire. That blue wire should come out of the 14-pin connector, go through the RF supressor, and go into the VR. No supressor in line, that's good. What's strange is that it looks like you have a red and brown wire connecting to the metal can (another noise filter?). In that connector, right next to the blue wire are the red and brown wires that are B+ (hot) and B- (ground)

The black, brown and white/black wires are all OK, the early (73) wiring diagram shows that the white/black isn't connected to anything.

There are supposed to be two wires running to the starboard side of the fan, one's signal for the oil temp, other for the oil press. I don't know what the red wire is, but it's definitely not a factory wire.

Ok, enough archaeology. Assuming that you have voltage flowing through the metal can, and that's a pretty scary looking connection in that white casing, start there. Take it apart, make note of what connects to what by using a piece of tape on the wire, label "A" on both sides before you break the connection, "B" on the other wire and so on. Then clean the connection thoroughly, that should be a good start.

suppressor
 

Do I actually need to even connect the suppressor?
Can't I just leave it unhooked?

Would faulty engine ground strap cause this?

Suppressor not necessary.

Do you mean alternator ground to engine case, or transmission ground to body?

Doesnt sound like a bad alternator ground strap to me. Your problem is that you have full voltage at the battery- voltage traveling from the alternator B+ terminal, to the starter lug and up the battery cable, but low voltage in the D+/61 circuit, which is why the light is on. So somewhere over on that engine console, there's an oxidized connection that's giving a high resistance, dropping the voltage flowing up that side of the circuit. Find that and you're home free.

So basically I just need to clean, clean, clean the connections
on the 14 pin and pull the suppresor out of there.

What about connections on the starter?

Yes, you should definitely clean the connections. Be careful on the 14-pin connector, it's delicate, and don't remove the cap unless you have a wiring diagram, because the wires are soldered at 90 degrees to silver-plated brass pins,and they will fly out of the connector, and it's tough to get them back in order!

You could clean the connection on the starter, also, but given the good voltage you're seeing at the battery that's probably not the problem.

A guy named Sponge had the same problem you have, do a search under his name for advice on this.

Good luck!

type in "at wits end" in the search. you will find sponge.

not for nothing.. but I don't like rebuilt starters or alternators to begin with. the routine for a dull dash "G" lite is an open diode. An ohm meter reading at the alternator hot and ground,in both directions, will show an open.

The convoluted elect system is no prize either. I like to keep a good stretch of black and red wire handy to jump or bypass different circuits to see what I'm chasing.. even an old ignition sw. can drive you nuts.