jmz, the cluster itself isnt really rusted but its going to get the POR treatment as soon as I can get it apart. There was some surface rust on the floorpan where it bolts up to though. I just scraped and cleaned that area as much as possible, vacuumed it out, prepped with the POR15 Metal Ready, and painted with POR15. Hopefully it will hold up :)

Shuie, is that one of them "RS" factory lightweight rear shelfs?
Matt

Hi JMZ: My first Porsche was killed by rust, I won't let my '69 be killed by RUST! Listen to all of these great advise. I will say that the culprit was the rear window gasket. In order to find out all for real you must dissasemble all the rear seats, carpet, rear shelf, panels, seat belts, etc... to see all the damage. The seat area and both corners are real problems area. hopefully all has only surface rust. I have used several rust preventive paints they all did not work so great with the exception of POR15. The Wurth type undercoating is a bear to remove. use a hot gun, I do not have one, so I used a propane torch, but my car is all torn apart, no tank, fuel, etc... and a small scraper, You must remove all the undercoating since water posible has gone underneath and appears ok from the outside, but there is rust underneath. Take a close look at the photos previously posted, that is wahat normally happens. Use a metal scraper, then a drill with a wire brush and remove all rust scales to see how much damage the rust has made. Then we will see how we ATTACK and DESTROY! the Porsche worst enemy. Take care and do not give up!SmileWavy

I had a leaky rear window seal, damage a little worse than yours, but not much, and I was amazed how much surface rust was under that stupid floor coating. My wife's hair drier and a scraper was all it took to get it up, then I wire brushed the rust, used a grinder and wire wheel on the painted parts, and POR'ed the whole damned thing. No worries, now I have to do the front seat area.

As Shuie mentioned, use the POR-15 Metal Ready primer before the POR-15 coating. POR-15 is meant to go right on the rust after you get the loose stuff off. If you clean it down to bare metal you want to use the primer first.

Hey, jmz - I've got the perfect solution for you:
Since the rust has not eaten through, sand it to knock off the loose rust.
Then, go down to Pep Boys and buy a can of Extend and spray on a coat - let it dry - and spray on another coat.
I guarantee you won't have to worry about it again.

Look ma...no rust...

I have been removing all the factory sound deadening and tar paper to completly un-cover any rust. So far, I have removed about 50 lbs of stuff and only found some minor surface rust around the seams in the rear lid. I am one of the luck owners who is still searching for the rust. By the way, it is a '69.

-Britain

http://www.britainsmith.com/Porsche/...5_3573_JPG.jpg

While cleaning my 911 this afternoon, I noticed that my floor mats were damp... under those, my carpets were wet... under those, the floors were soaked. At first glance though, the factory wax covering still looked perfect until I started prodding with a screwdriver. Needless to say, I ended up ripping all of the waxy stuff out and found a ton of surface rust on my driver's side rear floorpan!!! :eek: No holes though... whew... and I wailed on it with my pointiest screwdriver too.

http://gallery.rennlist.com/albums/D..._001.sized.jpg

http://gallery.rennlist.com/albums/D..._004.sized.jpg

Luckily, the other three pans still look great but I'll definitely need to clean up that rusty one. The next step is searching for where the water got in... since it's the rear pan, I'm suspecting the rear window seal. :(

What in the hell are those two circular things on the sides of the rear floorpan? I've been meaning to ask ever since I did mine.

I think they're drain plugs.

Hearing so many early porsche rust stories is one of the main reasons I wanted a late 80s model. I figured there has to be some pretty good rust protection behind that corrosion warranty they had.

mine was also supposed to be rustfree when i bought her last august. then the honeymoon was over

today we're in couples therapy:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1077475706.jpg

I believe you are talking about the two circles with circular sound proofing glued into place. I f you were to remove the sound proofing and remove the undercoating you would find a "U" shaped cut in the circles. The following is is my opinion only and have no proof. I believe they were cuts made during the stamping of the floor pan and used for draining during the galvanizing coating.

I welded my "U" shaped cuts closed and ground down the weld bead. on the inside floor pan I lead soldered over the "U".
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1077482983.jpg

That is "light surface rust" if most ads are anything to go by.

John,

Those are the same ads that always say something like "_____is broken, but can be easily fixed". If that were true wouldn't they have fixed whatever it was before they tried to sell it?

I've heard those holts were there to give access to the spot welders during assembly. They were there befroe they started galvanizing so that's out.

What is a holts?

My favourite: "Easy resto"... yeah, right... :rolleyes:

It looks like your having your way with her! :D

oh yeah, i'm quite obsessive / posessive about her
in return, she's plundering my bank account

:D:D