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Update-water on the floor of my SC

Well today I removed the rear seats,shelf and all the sound deadoning material along with all the rear carpet,man is that stuff heavy when wet!!Anyway it appears that the rear seat "wells" are the only area with surface rust,everything else looks good.I dried everything up and am going to let it dry for a day or two before I tackle removing all the horse hair fibres to get to clean metal,do all the surface prep then I'll prime and paint.As far as the leak path it appears that it is coming from the rear window,it looks like there is dried water path marks from the bottom edges of the glass,I will do the garden hose test in a few days.I also noticed when I push on the glass from the inside it seems to have a fair amount of "play" or movement,indicating to me it is not tight,any advice on that?Can I use silicone or some other sealer to fix this?Car is a 83SC,thanks.

Old 02-29-2004, 08:51 AM
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don't use silicone.
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:13 AM
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alf alf is offline
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Mike
Why not silicone?
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:42 AM
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It could cause major problems if you ever have paint work done...it's very easy and inexpensive to remove the rear window and reinstall it with a new seal -- this is your best course of action if the leak is coming from the rear window.
Old 02-29-2004, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by alf
Mike
Why not silicone?
Sorry I didn't specify, the truth is I don't know enough to give you a good answer but I can speculate. I have heard it causes rust when in contact with metal. Plus it is increadibly unforgiving when it has to be removed. On something like a car window where it will someday most likely need to be removed it would be a major hassle.
I think window sealers are more like tar aren't they? I can understand your wanting a quick fix since the window itself isn't cracked but I think it has to come out too.
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Old 02-29-2004, 10:10 AM
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If I install a new rear window seal is there any "goop" needed for the installation?What is the procedure/how do I do it?I've never done any glass work.
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Old 02-29-2004, 12:03 PM
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I use 3M Windo-Weld 999
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Old 02-29-2004, 01:46 PM
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No, don't use window weld, it will never come out in one piece. Get a new seal and replace it. The factory uses some kind of caulk that never gets hard and never bonds or dries, but is waterproof, kind of like 3M strip caulk in the areas between the body and the seal for a little more protection against leaks. You could also go to a glass shop and ask them to reseal it be using the caulk that never dries, they use an aplicator gun and shoot it between the seal and the body. DON'T USE SILICONE.
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Old 02-29-2004, 01:59 PM
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I just know rfuerst is buying a case of silicone right as we speak...lol... he's gonna squirt it into every nook and cranny he can find and then silicone the doors shut. Hey...... that my stiffen up the ol' Targe huh?
EDIT: youd a thunk i'd a lernt how to spell Taga by now
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Old 02-29-2004, 02:20 PM
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No silicone purchase yet,after looking in the archives and seeing what a pain in the ass this job is I may leave it to the pro's,I'm thinking of the reseal route.

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Old 02-29-2004, 04:29 PM
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