SC Brake Fluid Flush
 

I got my order from Pelican yesterday. I have installed my new front pads, and got a liter of ATE Super Blue for a brake fluid flush. Now that I think about it, will 1 liter be enough to flush all four calipers?

If I run a little short, can I just add regular DOT 3 from the Auto store. I did actually buy the blue so that I could tell when all calipers were properly flushed.

TIA

Doug

1 liter is enough with some left over if you make a mistake and end up with some on the floor!

1 liter will be plenty. If you use the power bleeder, make sure to close off the vent tube; don't ask. :)

You should be fine. Note that a good autoparts store carries ATE fluid. If you do not have an autoparts store that carries it, a euro car repair shop will.

George

i flushed twice (dont ask why) and one jug pulled it off both times.

Good. Started to worry there. I plan on using the official Porsche "helper-with-a-good-leg" method.

I was wondering about that breather hose. Where does it go. For a second I thought maybe, just maybe, is was so that you could add fluid from inside the car. Ok... still, that would be cool, huh?

na2ub. dont let your leg pumper get to enthusiatic, i have read that some overpumping can be dangerous to your MC seals. that alone is worth the $45 dollar power bleeder. i wish you were closer, i would lend you mine.
cliff

Ok. That leads to my other question. What does everyone use? Speed bleeders, power bleeder, or leg? I was having trouble justifying the power bleeder. Is it worth it? How often do you flush your brakes, realistically?

Power bleeder is worth it! I tried to be careful without one, using speed bleeders & still wasted the seals in my MC.

some of these guys track their cars and they bleed before every event! i bought the motive power bleeder for $45 dollars. worth every penny, i cant wait to bleed the system on my motorcycle, i bet it take a few minutes. i just have to buy a new cap and drill a hole into it.....

If you should decide to use the "pump the pedal" method, place a block of wood under the pedal so you limit travel. Going past the normal stroke limit can and most likely tear the seals inside the MC, then you'll have another nice project to do.

Remove as much old fluid from the reservoir before starting without exposing the pressure port to air. Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. This avoids pushing excess old fluid through the system. When you see "fresh" fluid dribbling out of the bleeder screw (it'll be a different color), stop and go to the next caliper. You can attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder to get the fluid away from the caliper and new pads and to better see the change in fluid color.

Sherwood

It is. Killed the MC on my Mercedes using the leg pumper method. Get a power bleeder!


JP

1987 Carrrera Targa - 17k miles

Pressure bleeder is "the way to go" (you can build your own for approx. $15). I bleed every year and completely flush every other year (I don't track the car, if I did I'd bleed for every track day). Try to use short strokes (no more than half way) if you opt for the "pump the petal" method.

Jerry M
'78 SC

OK. I am convinced. It seems a shame to spend $45 on such an item, but I guess it beats messin' with a homemade device that kinda works some of the time okay. (Unless it is really straigth-forward) Hints accepted.

I have tried the vacuum bleed. Didn't work well which was too bad b/c I have a nice metal MityVac.

Then I used the pedal bleed twice but the wife got sick of that. Mainly 'cause she's 5'3" and I am 6'3" so she didn't have a good seat (it's bolted in) position.

Currently using the pressure bleeder. Like anything else I tried to engineer one but then quickly realized that for $45 it's not worth it to DIY build one. So, I bought one and it works great.

Anyone have any thoughts as to why the vacuum didn't work? Seems odd. I have done many other cars with it but the 911 seems to suck air under the tube and gets very little fluid flow. I would like to take that to the track since it's more compact.

I have done vacuum bleeding and the biggest problem is getting a good seal at the bleeder screw so you do not admit any air into the lines or cylinders. Also, sometimes you need to lightly depress the brake pedal to get fluid moving. All in all, IMHO the pressure bleeder is a better way to go.

Try searching the archives for "DIY" or "homemade" pressure bleeders, there are several good "recipes" for these devices. They (if properly assembled) all work just as well as the commercial versions, the concept isn't complicated. I built my own because I couldn't find one immediately, locally, and building it was quicker than ordering one; that was several years ago and I've been using it ever since.

Jerry M
'78 SC

the small, fertilizer (1 gallon) sprayer that they sell at homedepot would work. but after all said and done, drilling a extra cap, plumbing it airtight, pressure gauge, you would be right there at the $45.

Nawwww,
15.00 of parts and a 1gal garden sprayer. Remove vent line, then conect hose to vent line outlet, tighten cap and pump up. Very simple, no need in buying new cap and drilling for fitting and hose attachment.
My .02 Rick

Is there a cheap in-line pressure fluid guage available that would accept that diameter of hose?