Heat Exchanger Removal Questions?? Pics!!

Craig Roche · 03-24-2004, 03:31 PM

I have the engine removed with the tranny attached. I've cleaned up and repainted engine compartment. I've powder coated all the engine tin and related pcs. It's really looking good!!

The only thing that needs work is the exhaust system. I have the muffler and cat removed. My question is: Is there some clever way to remove the heat exchangers. The engine and transmission are sitting on the dolly used when engine was removed. I don't need to do clutch work, so I wasn't planning on removing the tranny. So putting it on a engine stand is out. Could I roll it up on it's end (pulley end)?? Need some low tech engineering!!

Rot 911 · 03-24-2004, 03:36 PM

Craig, pulling the tranny is at most a 10-15 minute operation

Craig Roche · 03-24-2004, 03:42 PM

See, here I go! Cause once I get that tranny off then I get another case of "whileyourinthereitis"

Seriously, it's that simple? That's probably the thing to do then. Would I really have to buy one of the fancy engine brackets for the engine stand??

keithdog72 · 03-24-2004, 05:15 PM

You dont HAVE to buy the expen$ive engine stand adapter. I have my engine mounted on a stand I bought on sale at Harbor Freight tools $40.00 for a 1000 lb stand. Used some aluminum in between the stand and case. Works fine!!! Very sturdy. I know all these guys say no, but some of us are on a budget.

Zeke · 03-24-2004, 05:17 PM

Crawling around on the floor is no fun while woking on an engine. I know. I don't have a lift, only jacks and I do a ton of work on cars.

Here's what I'd do if you don't want to buy the engine fixture (which you certainly must do for the six). Make a nice cradle for the bottom of the case and get your engine onto it somehow. The jack the whole thing up so youj can get under there. You'll be laying on the floor like me

You could also use a cheap come along to hoist the engine up to a bench. Your same cradle would hold the motor. Those come alongs with the 1/4" cable are rated pretty good. Be careful.

Rot 911 · 03-24-2004, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by keithdog72
You dont HAVE to buy the expen$ive engine stand adapter. I have my engine mounted on a stand I bought on sale at Harbor Freight tools $40.00 for a 1000 lb stand. Used some aluminum in between the stand and case. Works fine!!! Very sturdy. I know all these guys say no, but some of us are on a budget.

Keith, you might want to do a search before you make such broad generalizations. A number of members of this board, including me, have used a standard engine stand. The only reason to go with the yoke adaptor is if you need to split the cases or want to turn the engine upside down with the heat exchangers still bolted to the engine. The heat exchangers interfere with the regular engine stand when you try to rotate the engine.

Craig Roche · 03-24-2004, 07:28 PM

Kurt V,

Ok, took your advice and I'll remove the tranny. I'll do some searching for that and also search the dreaded heat exchanger fasteners!! It'll probably take me a little longer than 10-15 minutes, cause I'm slow!! Thanks for the engine stand/yoke info too!!

Jim Sims · 03-24-2004, 09:12 PM

Why do you want to remove the heat exchangers? If you're doing it just to clean and paint and you are on a budget you may want to reconsider. There is always the risk of breaking a stud(s) and the resulting repair costs. Do you have an oxy-acetylene torch for heating the exhaust stud nuts before removal? Good luck, Jim

keithdog72 · 03-25-2004, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Keith, you might want to do a search before you make such broad generalizations. A number of members of this board, including me, have used a standard engine stand. The only reason to go with the yoke adaptor is if you need to split the cases or want to turn the engine upside down with the heat exchangers still bolted to the engine. The heat exchangers interfere with the regular engine stand when you try to rotate the engine.

Sorry Kurt,
I should have said that MOST of these guys frown upon this. Wasn't intended to insult anyone.

Rot 911 · 03-25-2004, 06:04 AM

Craig, one good reason to separate the tranny is to get a good look at your clutch plate and see how much life it has left.

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

You WILL need an oxy-acetaline torch for the heat exchangers and you will risk breaking studs no matter how you do it. If they have to come off, this is the only way to do it. If they don't have to come off, then.....

yelcab1 · 03-25-2004, 07:07 AM

I have removed heat exchangers on an 80, and an 84 and no heat was necessary. I may have lucked out. I did back a few of the studs out of the heads, but new studs went right back in. So, you may get lucky too.

I also use a regular engine stand, with a Porsche yoke. That is the best way to treat your engine. When I worked on the Ferrari engine, I used the regular yoke and it bent some of the long studs. So, if you want to take that kind of chance on your engine, well ... it is your engine.

You could always put the engine back in the car, and then remove the heat exchangers.

limble · 03-25-2004, 10:30 AM

Check this thread for a low cost yoke. The working end looks like a p201.

Anyone use this yoke (engine stand adapter) for their 911 (pics)?

With the rarity that these things are sold used, I would suggest buying a P201 using it and selling it. I might very well be the only Porsche related item that has a positive return on your money.

William Miller · 03-25-2004, 11:47 AM

I usually remove the exhaust before dropping the engine, Unless the heat excangers are staying on. I know this won't help now but maybe in the future. The yellow gass bottles that work on a propane torch are much hotter than propane and have done the trick for me.
definately seperate and do the while your in there stuff.
Good luck.