Can anyone who is running a turbo make a suggestion on a muffler. I don't want to be waking the neighbors in the morning. I'm also not interested in paying more for a muffler than I did for my turbo:rolleyes: Maybe I should experiment with a dynomax?

It looks like you are mounting the turbo in the stock 930 possition. Is this correct? If so you might be able to use a stock 930 muffler.
I have tried many mufflers on my conversion and keep coming back to the stock unit. I don't lose any significant power and the exhaust is quiet. I have a dump pipe for the waste gate so I get a lot of noise when I want it.

I'd rather waith for the heat than the boost! I really like the idea of moving the turbos closer to the front of the engine, if possible, too.

Olivier

If you want heat and need to save yourself some trouble you should just keep an eye out on e-bay for some factory 930 headers.

http://AnthonyRawson.com/Cars/headersandfan.jpg

Yupp, yhose would be much better. They fit perfectly , retain heat and exhaust path is shorter. Both exchangers merge with a Y-pipe and there is even a pipe for the wastegate and lambda.

Of course, you would need to cut and weld new turbo-flange in order to raise turbo somewhat but this setup could work. Also, I've seen quite many on sale as many 930 owners are getting rid of it.

The intent of my project is to make this into a kit in the future. I want to keep it simple and re-use as much as possible. New 930 headers for every kit are just too expensive.

What's the cost of a 930 muffler?

What you are forgetting is that those 930 headers are very much the same (bar different material used) to ordinary SC headers. Most of people in the market for such upgrade will have their original exchangers fitted, which are more optimal for turbo-conversion than early style ones.

By making your "kit" early-style exchanger dependent, you'll be forcing your potential customers to buy them instead of using those that are already fitted. Early exchangers are better fitting to N/A engine, but when using turbo it's exactly the opposite.

Check this pic:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1978-83/2-2.JPG

That's original exhaust system for 78 to 83 SC's. It's superior compared to early exchangers in case of turbocharging.

While I understand your urge to make this "kitable" and your self-confidence regarding your sucess with Megasquirt EFI conversion, I just want to point out that this isn't quite the same sort of "add on". Results aren't as immediate and there is not as much space for corner-cutting.

Personally, I wouldn't buy a SC turbo kit if i had to change (in this case better) exchangers to early ones just beacuse your turbo-flanged T-pipe is cheaper to produce than real exhaust system. The drawbacks would be bigger than advantages.

Good luck!

Beep is right.

It seems that old 930 and SC header systems are always popping up on e-bay since people unload that stuff when they switch to performance headers.

People looking for these items certainly wouldn't need to buy new exhaust systems to get these components.

The only reason I am using backdated headers is because that is what I have on my car. If I had the stock headers that is what I would use.

Cheers,

It might be a good better idea to sell them or swap with someone with N/A car. Then it's a matter of welding appropriate pipe between bypass pipe and turbo, depending on where you want to fit it.

Got the left valve cover off to install the oil return fitting.

I picked up a 3/8 NPT to 1/2" barb fitting to put in the valve cover. I measured the thickness of the valve cover and it is only 1/8" thick. Not really enough material for a pipe thread to bite into.

One option is to tap the threads straight (instead of the taper pipe threads) and put a nut behind the valve cover to hold it tight. Some kind of washer would be needed to seal it. I am going to look around and see if there is a better off the shelf solution.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084408404.jpg

Well that didn't take long. Found a couple of candidates from Parker

The 45 degree seems like a good choice as the turbo oil outlet and valve cover inlet are offset. A proper diameter hole would have to be drilled in the valve cover and the O-ring would sit inside the hole, sealing it. Both come in 5/8 hose diameter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084411261.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084411309.jpg

Tony, another option is a AN bulkhead fitting or a male to male AN adapted and a bulkhead nut. You could sandwich an O-ring or a nylon washer between the nut and fitting. You could then use braided line or some of Aeroquip's socketless hose for a more tidy installation.

I called to get the above fittings, but it would take a couple of weeks to bring them in, so I just picked up a 3/8" pipe fitting. Got a nut and a couple of face sealing washers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084755254.jpg

Drilled a 11/16" hole and mounted the fitting. Places washers on both sides. I used some red loctite on the brass nut. hopefully that will keep it from coming loose. I had to grind away the numbers on the back side to get the washer to sit flat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084755490.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084755519.jpg

I will install a 3/8" NPT to 1/2" beaded hose fitting on the end of this.

Air filters
 

I picked up a couple of air filters to try. The one that fits the best is a sponge air filter that sits directly on the turbo intake.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084755812.jpg

I don't know how well these sponge filters work. Are they better/worse than the cotton air filters that K&N use?

The cone filter I picked up (5" long) just doesn't fit directly on the turbo intake. I have to put a 90 degree boot and have it facing down. I don't think this is a good idea.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084756201.jpg

The alternative is to make some 3" pipe and plumb it all the way into the wheel well. If I moved the turbo 2" to the right the cone filter would fit. This requires mods to the exhaust pipe. I may have to do this to fit the wastegate anyway. We'll see.......

Opinions are always welcomed.

I'm not really sure, but wouldn't having the filter located that close the exhaust for it to inhale hot air at standing idle. In motion there would be no problems obviously, but if your sitting in traffic for example, would'nt the heat from the exhaust radiate into the air that the filter sucks in? And also wouldn't it suck in the hot air being blown out of the engine by the cooling fan?

Nice looking oscilloscope you got there. ;)

Tony,

I wouldn't mount the filters down low there either. Between dirt and heat I think it's asking for trouble. As for foam filters, my experience with them has been bad overall. I'd stick with a K&N or paper filter up in the engine bay. Have you thought of using an airbox from a readily available domestic car that you could mount on top the engine? Preferably something from a V8 car since it would provide the necessary flow.

Right now the exhaust will actually be routed to the right side, so there is little chance any burned exhaust will be sucked in.

I didn't think about the hot air from the cooling fan. That might be an issue. The ECU monitors intake air temp, so I would quickly know if this is an issue or not. I would make some kind of deflector shield to prevent the filter from direct spray of dirt.

The reason to place the filter there is for simplicity. I don't want the added hassle of a 90 degree boot and plumbing and brackets to hold the air filter. Also I know for a fact the intake air from the stock snorkel in the engine bay is significantly higher than ambient.

Scope is old but works. I've worked with the fanciest scopes you could imagine in high tech labs. This one has no digital features, triggering is bad, bandwidth is low, but does the job for basic measurements.

I hope you are aware that intake temp will jump as soon as you start boosting...considering you are not going to use intercooler.